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Old 09-10-2015, 10:08 PM   #21
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And the LED taillights are worth doing. Get the ones from E-trailer. I left the backup lights in but if I had it to do again I would make all 4 Running and Brake lights.


Might put backup lights down low next to the hitch.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:37 PM   #22
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And the LED taillights are worth doing. Get the ones from E-trailer. I left the backup lights in but if I had it to do again I would make all 4 Running and Brake lights.


Might put backup lights down low next to the hitch.
I guess we should be expecting more Amazon packages.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:48 PM   #23
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Added a third reading light over the head of the bed in the slide out. RW came with two 10 watt lights at the extreme outboard locations above the pillows. Added a third 10 watt equivalent LED in the middle and changed the two existing halogen bulbs to LED. Wired the new light to one of the existing lights so it works on the same switch. The complication was threading the wires over to the existing light. There are metal ribs in the ceiling of the bedroom slide out that block access to wiring . I was able to pull the wires directly back to the wall/window and exit the ceiling between the valance and the ceiling thru a one inch hole I cut into the ceiling. Then I ran the wires between the valance and the ceiling to one end of the valance. Cut another one inch hole in the ceiling and ran the wires to the existing light. The holes and the wires are hidden between the valance and the ceiling.
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:17 AM   #24
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Added a third reading light over the head of the bed in the slide out. RW came with two 10 watt lights at the extreme outboard locations above the pillows. Added a third 10 watt equivalent LED in the middle and changed the two existing halogen bulbs to LED. Wired the new light to one of the existing lights so it works on the same switch. The complication was threading the wires over to the existing light. There are metal ribs in the ceiling of the bedroom slide out that block access to wiring . I was able to pull the wires directly back to the wall/window and exit the ceiling between the valance and the ceiling thru a one inch hole I cut into the ceiling. Then I ran the wires between the valance and the ceiling to one end of the valance. Cut another one inch hole in the ceiling and ran the wires to the existing light. The holes and the wires are hidden between the valance and the ceiling.
That is some fancy fishwork!
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:31 AM   #25
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LED strip

just a 300 LED strip on the front just like all my past fifth wheels.
helps so much for outdoor illumination.

led strip.jpg
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Old 10-03-2015, 05:21 AM   #26
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power recliners
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Old 10-03-2015, 04:52 PM   #27
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I watched mine from the window... All drenched from the soaking rain and wind. :-(
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Old 10-03-2015, 07:08 PM   #28
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I changed out the bathroom vent fan from the OEM small noisy fan to a Fantastic Fan and vent with a smoke color lid. Took about an hour to peel away the OEM caulking from the factory vent installation and install the Fantastic vent assembly. Lots of quiet air movement and the vent lid admits daylight. In fact I liked the lid so much that I replaced the solid white kitchen fan lid with same smoke translucent lid. Big improvement.
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Old 10-03-2015, 07:43 PM   #29
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Awesome! I didn't know the fantastic lid would fit the Maxair fans. I would love to get some light in through those and never found a non-opaque for my fans.
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Old 10-03-2015, 09:11 PM   #30
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Awesome! I didn't know the fantastic lid would fit the Maxair fans. I would love to get some light in through those and never found a non-opaque for my fans.
My OEM kitchen fan was a Fantastic so I got a replacement lid directly from Fantastic. BTW, they are a terrific company to deal with. They shipped me the smoke lid for free If yours is Maxair then you probably need a Maxair lid. The bathroom was a small, unshrouded blade fan which vibrated, was noisy and moved little air.
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Old 10-04-2015, 03:13 AM   #31
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Ah, I didn't know Redwood ever used Fantastic Fan - that is cool. I am actually impressed with the maxair fans - but I just wish the lids weren't opaque.
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Old 10-04-2015, 03:18 AM   #32
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sounds great I got a shurflo in the bathroom and it takes about 2 min to open I would love to change it to a maxx fan.
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Old 10-04-2015, 03:54 AM   #33
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Picked mine up from the body shop after having it repaired from hail damage while we where in SD. They did a great job.
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Old 10-04-2015, 04:11 AM   #34
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Well i went and got some parts today to do some repairs on the trailer. I was replacing the muffler hanging bracket and decided to to dump the black tank while i was doing this. Pulled the valve and nothing. The stainless rod that the cable hooks to has pulled out of the valve blade that opens the flow to the black tank. The handle had felt a little funny for a while when operating it
I have a new valve so tommorrow i have to drill the opposite end of the valve and push a screwdriver in the hole to open the valve. Once the tank is empty i can then replace the valve. Looks like an exciting day tomorrow
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Old 10-04-2015, 04:44 AM   #35
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When took delivery of ours it had 3 Maxx Air vents (kitchen, bedroom, lavatory) & 1 Fantastic Fan over the toilet, why they used both brands is anyone's guess. Had them change that 1 out to the Maxx Air because you had to open the FF manually, a bit inconvenient at times.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:03 PM   #36
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sounds great I got a shurflo in the bathroom and it takes about 2 min to open I would love to change it to a maxx fan.
Wow, they used Sureflow as well. I didn't know that.
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:45 PM   #37
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I tore the belly down and drilled out the valve and used a screwdriver to open the valve. Nothing came out. Upon further investigation I noticed the black tank had dropped half way down from the angle iron it was sitting on. This caused the angle for the drain to be to high and must have been blocked with solids. I jacked the tank back up and it started to flow. I now find out the valve was fine after I drilled a hole in it. I proceeded to flush and then replaced the valve. I still have to have my mechanic weld a cross member between the 2 pieces of channel that the tank sits on. There is nothing holding the 2 pieces of channel together. If they spread at all the tank comes down. A poor design I now can see why people are having their tanks come down.
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Old 10-04-2015, 11:17 PM   #38
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Oh man that sucks Shane. Now I better go check mine.
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Old 10-05-2015, 03:24 AM   #39
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Painted the ladder to match, well sort of. Closest I could get with the rattle cans! Better than the orange!
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Old 10-05-2015, 03:28 AM   #40
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I have bin sitting here having a beer and have started tallying up all of the issues big and small that I have had with this piece of crap and it is starting to burn my britches. I have had 12 different rvs from a tent trailer Truck camper travel trailers and 5th wheels and have never had so many problems with any of the others and they cost a 1/ 3 of what this thing did. I'm ready to get rid of it and go back to a tent. At least with that there are no worries of doors that come apart batteries that burn up after 2 mths of use holding tanks falling out slide motors falling apart plugs and central vac not connected trim falling off fenders cracking and breaking where screws go in led lights burning out swintech slide module burning out valve stem nuts coming loose brakes shoes covered in grease air conditioners not put together properly tv quit after 2 weeks molding under overhang for pinbox screws rusted out and seperated and this is just some of it. Just look inside the basement take out a light fixture. Take down the belly pan apparently redwood can't afford a shop vac. At least with my canvas tent you put away dry put waterproofing on it 1 a year and your good to go. You know when you look at them they are real pretty bit having spent years working with old cars etc a good paint job will make a piece of s!!! Look real good
I am done with my day
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