5th Wheel Hitch

[Dave&Ginny]

As I just posted on another thread, the combination of the Kelderman 2 stage and the Tri-glide, I'm not sure the ride could get any better. It's simply amazing how this rig floats down the road. The only thing you have to keep in mind is that with the 2 stage suspension you still need the helper bags to level out the truck.

The 4 link system that kelderman has eliminates the other bag system.

[RollsRoyce]

Darrell and Yong Put yor tuck on cat scales and see what your rear weight is when yor truck is loaded the way it will be when you begin a trip....Like weight in back seat area, any weight to be carried in bed of truck and a full tank of dieseland hitch installed add 2800 to 3000 lbs and look at your door pillar for th rear GAWR...That should tell you if you are legal My F250 pulling 36FB was about 100 lbs over the 6200 gawr so I moved a couple items to the rear area of my trailer between the chairs, couch, entertainment, and the island sinks...nothing moves during travel and I'm legal....and i am happy with my TV . 18k Pullrite slider and Tri-glide ,,,If you get the Tri glide you may have to experiment with th air pressure and not pay so much attention to the arrows on your unit...63 lbs psi works perfect fo r really good tow for me ...Ihave heard others have to use more and others use less.....Welcome to your Redwood Club Royce and Rachel

[UNDRPSI]

I to want to upgrade to a MorRyde IS. I have read alot of good about them. I checked into the Kelderman suspension and I would rather have the MorRyde. It's to bad it isn't a options at Redwood as I would have ordered it from day one. Not sure but I think a couple folks on here have already upgraded to the MorRyder IS on their Redwoods that are on the forum here.

[mhs4771]

During our ordering phase, while talking with RW, I asked about the possibility of having the MorRyde IS and was told that they do work closely with MorRyde, BUT not that close. I would have gladly paid for the upgrade plus the 17.5 wheels and tires. But I guess doing it after the fact is better than not at all.

[benstefa1@yahoo.com]

Hey All,

Hopefully, I can help with this discussion and maybe at least offer some ponder points.
As I -actually tow a 36FL with a FordF-250. There are some things you will need to be keenly aware of.

1. Weight your truck and trailer together on a scale.
2. Look at your rear axle weight on your trucks sticker.Compare the scale rear axle weight to it.
3. What type of towing will you be doing - Flat Lander or Mountain Climber.
4. Axle ratio on your truck.
5. Tire Pressure checks or TPMS system.
6. How often will you move your rig.
7. How far will you move your rig in one trip.
8. The terrian in which you will tow.
9. Speed at which you will travel.
10. How you load your trailer.

I have no generator, dishwasher,or washer and dryer. Last time I weighted out I was under 13K. I am a full timer. I move once a month or every several months -as I still work fulltime.

My specific specs:
1. Ford F-250 King Ranch with factory rated tires and no air bags on rear.
2. 3.31 Gear Ratio
3. Type of Towing - Flatlander
4, B&W companion hitch that will let you adjust the hitch pinweight across the front and
rear truck tires.
5. 172" wheel base.
6.Everything stays in the trailer.
7. Keep tires at 80 PSI on trailer and at the Mfr recommended pressure on the truck.
8. Try not to exceed 65 MPH.
9. I check all tire temps at each stop.My bladder lasts 4 hours or so.
10. My Axle weight is right on the Mfr. Max for my vehicle.

For me and only me and my circumstances this works. It is not worth investing in another 20+K
in another F-350 (I have owned 3). When I only drive the truck I get 21-22 MPG not towing a trailer.
When towing 12-12.5 MPG. I drive to work more than I tow the trailer.

If you will full time, drive the Colorado mountains, make long trips on each trip get the F-350. In fact,
run and sign the papers for the brand spanking newF-350 or 3500 of your choice.You will be happier you did.

Best Regards,
Ben

[jlandon13399]

Good advice Ben. I also tow with an F250 diesel and my RW34SK weight was 12908 at the dealer without any personal equipment. We are not full timers so have not loaded up the front basement with a lot of stuff. We only carry 50% of the total water to keep the weight down. I am probably a couple hundered pounds over weight on the rear axel as Ford has defined it. However my truck tires are rated for 7200 lbs, rear axel min of 7000 lbs, tire rims 7200 lbs. I understand that the limiting factor may be the differential which is 3.55:1 if pushed too hard. Yes I would be better off with an F350 dually for maximum control, but that is not an option for me at this time. The rig towsgreat with the air bags on the truck and I feel like I have complete control of both vehicles.

[mhs4771]

OK, I'm not trying to cause any trouble, but a question for both Ben and Jack. What is the total weight of your truck with the RW connected (wet truck weight plus pin weight) and how does that compare to the trucks max gross? Generally with a heavy 5er and 250/2500 TVs you go over the trucks gross long before you get near the axle ratings or combined gross. And if you were to ever get stopped for a weight check that gross figure is what they'll go by, they could care less about axles ratings and such, just max gross.

[TSM-MarineVet]

Seems to be a lot of new people joining this forum. Redwood must be selling units. We bought one, but have not picked it up yet. 36RE. Dumb me, I bought the truck first RAM 2500 6.7 Cummings short bed. Was told by the dealer this is what I wanted for a fifth wheel up to 15500lb. Next we started looking for the fifth wheel. Started with a dealer here in town that carries Columbus, then Big Horn, and then we saw the Redwood and stopped looking. It is ordered and we pick up in a few weeks from Explore USA Fort Worth. I have no choice but to use thenew RAM to pull it, so I guess we will see what happens.
We have been full timing in a Beaver Monterey MH for the last 8 years, not a lot of travel, just working form place to place across the country. Moving every year or two. I am letting the Beaver go back to the bank since they will not work with me and it is really upside down in value vs. owed. Hate to do this, but looking at retiring in two years, so need to reduce my outgoing costs. There goes my credit.
Back to my question. I am installing a pullrite underbed mount hitch receiver and was considering getting a pullrite slider hitch. Some have said with the Redwood a slider is not needed. Anyone out there that can confirm this?

[piper guy]

TSM ~ welcome from another Marine. I'm guessing we're about the same age, I was USMC 68-72.



To answer your question, I have a 2012 Ford F350, Crew Cab, Shortbed 4x4 Diesel. Hitch is a PullRite Super Slider 18k. For me, this works great and I can cramp the truck 90 degrees or even slightly more without worry. Highly recommend the hitch. I pull a 2013 36RL, no gen or washer/dryer.

[Dave&Ginny]

Originally Posted by TSM-MarineVet

Seems to be a lot of new people joining this forum. Redwood must be selling units. We bought one, but have not picked it up yet. 36RE. Dumb me, I bought the truck first RAM 2500 6.7 Cummings short bed. Was told by the dealer this is what I wanted for a fifth wheel up to 15500lb. Next we started looking for the fifth wheel. Started with a dealer here in town that carries Columbus, then Big Horn, and then we saw the Redwood and stopped looking. It is ordered and we pick up in a few weeks from Explore USA Fort Worth. I have no choice but to use thenew RAM to pull it, so I guess we will see what happens.
We have been full timing in a Beaver Monterey MH for the last 8 years, not a lot of travel, just working form place to place across the country. Moving every year or two. I am letting the Beaver go back to the bank since they will not work with me and it is really upside down in value vs. owed. Hate to do this, but looking at retiring in two years, so need to reduce my outgoing costs. There goes my credit.
Back to my question. I am installing a pullrite underbed mount hitch receiver and was considering getting a pullrite slider hitch. Some have said with the Redwood a slider is not needed. Anyone out there that can confirm this?

My old truck was a ford short bed and I didn't use a slider. I never had any problems with it at all.

[COLJDM]

We have a shortbed dodge 3500 with a slider hitch and feel really comfortable with the capability the slider hitch provides. Works well and recommend using one with a short bed truck.

[spindrift]

I'm seriously considering this set-up as my truck was originally pulling a gooseneck trailer.

http://www.andersenhitches.com/Catalog/ultimate-5th-wheel-connection.aspx

Just to be clear, this isn't the typical gooseneck adapter which moves the fulcrum point of your hitch, and has been known to cause damage to trailer frames.

[Dave&Ginny]

I think you should consider all options. I don't think all the trucks have the same size bed, which could make a big difference. I looked at a mega cab dodge like Johns and I thought it was shorter than the Ford short bed. My old truck was a 2011 F350 srw short bed but the bed was 6.5 ft long. Dodge makes a short bed that is closer to 5.5 ft. I believe "5th time" had stated, he has a automatic slider which is great and the people who have them swear by them. Reese now makes a air ride goose neck that Lippert says won't void their warranty, so the options are endless.

[spindrift]

Originally Posted by Dave&Ginny

Reese now makes a air ride goose neck that Lippert says won't void their warranty, so the options are endless.

Rumor has it that Anderson has been in discussions with Lippert for endorsement of their hitch as well. Time will tell. But you're correct, nonetheless, options are a plenty.

[5th_Time]

Dave, I don't have a slider, I have the Reese 18K Elite which I love and can remove it to haul things in my 8' bed. They do make a slider version.
Also, there are several people on this forum that claim they don't need the slider versions to haul their Redwood in their short bed.
I think you've uncovered the secret. Different truck mfgs "short beds" must be different lengths. Problem is, unless you get the info here, how do you know before you pull in to pick up the Redwood?
This is where a good dealer comes in.

[RollsRoyce]

TSM My 08 F250 has the short bed and when I was pulling my ALFA Sun it would not have made the 90 degree turn I had to make a couple of times with out the slider...Really glad I got mine...I think Redwood says 88 degreen possible but if you were making a 90 degree you would tear up your cab and or rear window....Not sure it would be if you were pulling with a super cab but with crew cab I wasn't taking any chances and in a couple parks I need the 90 degree turn. Be sure to install some airlift 5000 air bags or one of the major brands

Edited by: RollsRoyce

[mhs4771]

One thing to remember with a short bed and non-slider. You may be fine when everything is level, but be very careful if you're backing into a site thats on an uphill grade. The twisting action between the front of the RW and your TV can cause contact with resulting damage. Just something to think about and remember if you decide on the non-slider.

[Dave&Ginny]

One other thing to consider.....if you get the tri-glide pin box, it sits back about 4 inches further back than the regular pin box and it sits about 3 inches higher.

[0nTheRoad]

For those of you driving Fords with the hitch prep kit and the Reese Elite. Which hitch do you use, the 18K or the 25K, and why did you choose the one you're using?

We're awaiting delivery on our FB and I'm trying to decide whether to purchase the 18K or the 25K

Thanks,
Chuck

[Blenhardt]

I have 2011 Ford F350 withhitchprep kit and 25KElite hitch. When I ordered my truck I don't belive that there was choice between the 18Kand 25 K hitch.































































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