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Old 03-20-2016, 07:12 PM   #481
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Today , I hooked up and took a ride !!---

BTW - if on 95 south of DC and towing , do not use the express lanes, it's illegal to tow in them , don't ask me how I found out

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Old 03-20-2016, 07:37 PM   #482
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Oh no, how much was the ticket?

Nice looking rig by the way!
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Old 03-20-2016, 08:04 PM   #483
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this info is quite interesting reading will require some time to investigate condition of these components

karlb.
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:56 PM   #484
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Nice rig!! Is that your sewer hose storage on the rear bumper? I had mine there for awhile & kept dragging on fuel station driveways, just FYI!
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:08 PM   #485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atom ant View Post
Oh no, how much was the ticket?

Nice looking rig by the way!

Thanks ,
I have 2 choices,
1- show up in district court to see
2-pay by phone
They will advise the amount once I call.... At least there are no points involved.... I am guessing after they add court fees - $150.00 ???????
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:10 PM   #486
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Originally Posted by travelin' texans View Post
Nice rig!! Is that your sewer hose storage on the rear bumper? I had mine there for awhile & kept dragging on fuel station driveways, just FYI!
Thanks, it is my sewer hose... Made it out of 5" aluminum thin walled tubing... It's only about 3" lower than the hitch itself....
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:40 PM   #487
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Made yet another attempt at stopping fenders from flapping, had added additional vertical supports last year, this time added a horizontal piece (2" x 72" aluminum strap) & added stainless screws through the supports to hold the plastic fenders. I've also reinforced all the rear of all the holes in the fenders with JB Weld, which seems to be holding.
0320161425.jpg
This really stiffened them up nicely!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 0320161424.jpg (107.9 KB, 12 views)
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:44 PM   #488
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Thanks, it is my sewer hose... Made it out of 5" aluminum thin walled tubing... It's only about 3" lower than the hitch itself....
Mine was the original plastic tube that hung about 1" below the bumper, not a scratch on the bumper, but scrapped the plastic very badly, moved it to in front of the wheels.
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:48 PM   #489
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Sorry, intended to add this photo!
0624151521.jpg
The one on the left is 8' long & goes from side to side & the right is a 4' one.
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Old 03-24-2016, 12:42 AM   #490
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Today I gave the local mobile RV technician the go ahead to replace the Lippert slide/leveler hydraulic pump assembly after installing new batteries (seriously needed as the original one year old batteries were approaching five years old with one burst on the bottom and the other tested at 50% cracking capacity) did not solve the problem. Yep - I recently posted I've never had a battery problem with any of my four RV's. Now very humble and much more alert however $2,300 lighter. Thank goodness for the GS extended warranty policy.
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Old 03-24-2016, 01:34 AM   #491
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Quote:
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Sorry, intended to add this photo!
Attachment 1980
The one on the left is 8' long & goes from side to side & the right is a 4' one.
They look great Danny....
If for some reason mine has to come down, I will do those....
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:37 PM   #492
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About a week ago I worked on the entry door to see if I could “fix” it.
Went to Lowes and got some ¼ 20 Tee Nuts and 3 foot ¼ 20
threaded rod. I drilled one hole 31 inches up from the bottom and
another 42 inches up. Our door was separating the worst around the
middle hinge and latch. The hardest part was getting the threaded rod
through to hit the hole on the other side. I used a 5/16 steel tube to
drive through the Styrofoam to make it easier.
I bent the threaded rod so I could hang onto it while tightening the Tee Nut.
Used 90 degree snap ring plyers to tighten the nuts. Will need to get a Pin nut
wrench if I need to do this on the new door.

I drilled the holes close the fiberglass so when tightening I would not just
crush the Styrofoam. Got all the play out the frame and tightened it up
against the fiberglass panel. I also removed one each of the top and bottom hinges.
The door now closes like it should, light pressure and it latches.
My wife can open and close it finally.

[/URL][/IMG]
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:37 PM   #493
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[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:59 PM   #494
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I'm assuming RW has agreed to install new doors for you?????


Steve
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:05 PM   #495
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Yes, we have a new frame/door assembly waiting to get installed. Just wanted to see if a "fix" was possible before I lost this test subject.

If this had to be a permanent fix, I would add 2 more. One above the lower hinge and just below the upper hinge. The door flexes less in those locations but I think it would put less stress on the middle 2 threaded rods.

Rick
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:23 PM   #496
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Thanks for the reply... I just saw the posts in the other thread and forgot you mentioned that earlier. Should have looked first!

Good Luck and keep us posted.

Steve
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:55 PM   #497
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Nice Fix I had Looked at a way to fix the door then we changed our situation and are not full timing so I was able to get the door replaced. If it starts coming apart again I will look at this as a possible fix. Thanks for sharing
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:10 PM   #498
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*** update ***

Quote:
Originally Posted by atom ant View Post
Oh no, how much was the ticket?

Nice looking rig by the way!

SOON THERE WILL BE $203.75 WORTH OF TREES PLANTED SOMEWHERE IN MY NAME.... STUPID EXPRESS LANES
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:35 PM   #499
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Redwood just got back to me on the seperating door and said lippert will only replace the hinges. Don't know if with the same POS type or not. Still will not help with the seperating problem. I will deal with Juday when we are at the rally in aug.
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:40 PM   #500
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that's not right I just had our door replaced about 3 weeks ago and RW covered the entire replacement under warranty. I told the dealer to go ahead and order another door as I am sure it will happen again STUPID HINGES!!!!!!!
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