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Old 09-21-2015, 11:08 PM   #21
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I had to call the customer service folks last June because our basement was hot and the floor was warm......found out there was a thermostat in the basement that I had left on. Our coach is still half propane so I've only got a 10k generator but I still have too many batteries. I told Ginny when the batteries and tires need replaced.....so does the coach.
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:12 PM   #22
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hahaha Only a 10K gen!

That's the other part of a MH that scares me a bit. I'm already cussing the G614s that I'll have to replace because of age eventually more than wear.

Do you have that issue with a MH? or do the tires last until they wear out like on a truck?
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:20 PM   #23
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They last a long time due to their size but I have to be concerned with the sun on them. I was just talking to a guy last night that had 90,000 miles on his and they weren't needing to be replaced yet. His are 7 years old. The tires are about $525 each on the rear and about $575 on the front. So all total there's about $4300 plus mounting/balancing/taxes.

I believe I have 6 (6 volt) house batteries and 2 (12 volt) engine batteries.
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:27 PM   #24
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That's not as bad as I thought on tires - Although you have a few more heck these G614s are $340-380 or so.

Were the 6 volt batteries factory? I'm impressed. I love the 6 volt but that's usually something you have to change out yourself.
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:35 PM   #25
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Mine are the wet cell 6 volt that came from the factory. If I spent the extra 100k....the next level up comes with the dry 6 volt batteries and I believe they have 8 but then it's an all electric coach (no LP). The next level up was just too far for me to reach financially.
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:41 PM   #26
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Ya and there is no end - so you have to pin the tail at some point.
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:43 PM   #27
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I had the pro fill battery watering system on our last MH it made the maintenance of the batteries much easier. When I sold the MH I keep them and put the system on the RW.


https://flow-rite.com/battery-watering/pro-fill
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:51 PM   #28
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I had the pro fill battery watering system on our last MH it made the maintenance of the batteries much easier. When I sold the MH I keep them and put the system on the RW.


https://flow-rite.com/battery-watering/pro-fill
I've seen those advertised but my batteries are on a tray and easy to fill so I don't see the need so far. I guess I should re-look at them
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:54 PM   #29
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Well I definitely agree the residential fridge came out in the Redwood before it was ready. Between battery issues, not being able to shutdown the inverter, not being able to winterize, and dented doors, there could have been a little more research done on what MHs and even other brands were doing.

I know some of this just doesn't show up until production is done, but I think a lot of the aggravation could have been avoided wit a little more homework. The owners are finding out the residential cooktops aren't what they seem either - given one burner cuts to 50% when the second burner comes on, but I don't know how you avoid that on a non-220V setup. The closer these get to residential, the greater the need to bite the bullet and go to 220V like the MH, and maybe the split 50s like the new MHs are requiring to get 100A 220V service.

The future looks fun, but I still like my old fashioned gas appliances to work on 12V. For now...
Good point. I consider myself old fashion also, but have to admit I like my residential frig.
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:27 AM   #30
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Once we get our cook top replaced with one that works I think we'll be okay. Right now the max power you can get out of it is a setting of approx 3, takes forever and a day to boil water. Sort of got the Run-round between RW and the Local Dealer, so we've made our own plans to stop at the Distributor's Wearhouse in Florida and do an exchange.
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:24 AM   #31
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Norcold has a new 18.3 cubic foot fridge with through the door water dispensor. That is a handsome option to the residential for those that prefer the gas.
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Old 09-25-2015, 04:41 PM   #32
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That's actually exactly what it does- couldn't have said it better myself!

Especially since adding the 3rd AC, we needed something that could help keep ya from blowing a fuse! We've gotten pretty good feedback on it thus far.
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Old 09-25-2015, 05:05 PM   #33
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That's actually exactly what it does- couldn't have said it better myself!

Especially since adding the 3rd AC, we needed something that could help keep ya from blowing a fuse! We've gotten pretty good feedback on it thus far.
Are you saying that they are an option on the late 2016's and on.??
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Old 09-26-2015, 12:04 AM   #34
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Once we get our cook top replaced with one that works I think we'll be okay. Right now the max power you can get out of it is a setting of approx 3, takes forever and a day to boil water. Sort of got the Run-round between RW and the Local Dealer, so we've made our own plans to stop at the Distributor's Wearhouse in Florida and do an exchange.
Is that with using just one burner at a time?
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Old 09-26-2015, 01:42 AM   #35
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Vaughan, the max power our cook top will draw is 5.6 amps, should be able to draw 15 amps (1800 Watts) at full power on one burner, or a combination using both burners. So there is a serious problem with ours, almost like it's a 220V unit trying to run on 115V.
RW told the Local Dealer to take care of it, but since we're still waiting for the parts they were suppose to order back in mid-May (that issue was taken care of at the Factory), we gave up on them and contacted the Distributor directly and now have a plan to get it replaced next month when we arrive in Florida.
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Old 09-26-2015, 02:00 AM   #36
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Old 09-27-2015, 03:38 AM   #37
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Got A/C Return Vent project completed, opened up restriction around supply ducts and added two return registers, increased A/C System air flow and cooling efficiency quite a bit.

Attachment 1501
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Return Vent Update.JPG (63.5 KB, 5 views)
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Old 09-27-2015, 04:11 AM   #38
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Blocked Return Plenum

Living Room Return 2.JPG

Foam Blocks installed to support Bubble Foil and allow return air flow

Unblocked duct JPG.JPG
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Old 09-27-2015, 04:39 AM   #39
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Thanks for posting this Robert. Just curious, does your RW at night have a problem with equalization of temps between the Front of the RV to the Back. I have a GK. At night the bedroom will be 65 degrees while the kitchen and living room area is at 71. I set the two T-stats equal. usually at 70. If the temps get up in the upper 80's to 90's these units just will not cool it down below 76. A Properly designed system with tow units like the GK has should cool this RV down to 72 even on the hottest of days with no problem. I love the RW. And am doing my best to work out all of the bugs. But the list of poor design issues and shoddy work just continues to stack up. Not to mention.... the dealership. I absolutely refuse to take this RW back to the dealer to sit for another 7-10 weeks. How did you know where to cut to install those extra returns? And did you add any returns up in the front. To me this is were the design just doesn't make sense.
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Old 09-27-2015, 05:22 AM   #40
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Robert - what did you do on the return vents, go to the other side of the obstruction from the supply and wiring? Great idea if that was the objective!
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