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Old 10-18-2014, 05:50 PM   #21
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I had to do it on the road and used what I had in stock - They were 1-1/2" long stainless without the drill head which gave a good bite all the way in. The were the same diameter as the original (I drilled new holes), but I don't remember what that was.
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Old 10-18-2014, 05:54 PM   #22
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^Thanks, Brad. You didn't put the new, longer lag bolts in the old holes? Or, you moved to a different bolt location?
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Old 10-18-2014, 06:27 PM   #23
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I went to a different bolt location on the arm, and reinstalled the originals in the original holes with new sealant.

I'm not sure given the choice if I would have went to lag bolts. I'd have to see the types and how they actually seal water out. Anything pushing back on the gelcoat can cause spider cracking. I had Carefree install an awning on my last rig and they just drilled holes and used lags similar to what I used, which are what the Carefree manual calls out.

Todd had his replaced with lag bolts by Redwood but I don't know what type they were. Would be interesting to see.
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:23 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Right. You shouldn't have to, on a brand new unit. The keyhole lubing is to make it to where the key can actually be inserted into the hole easily, and be able to turn the key smoothly. On this unit, every slam latch was almost impossible to get a key into.
Given the issue existed on nearly every latch, and that this key broke off when inserting, I have to wonder out loud if it was the key that was the common defective issue, not the latches. Having been around keys and locks a lot, I know how much force it takes to break a key when attempting to turn it or insert it; a lot. Simply bending it to the side when inserted, not as much, but it usually bends, not breaks.

However, your posting did bring up a good point, that being one more item to address in the pre-delivery acceptance walk-around, since we secure a lot of very important and often valuable items in the outside cabinets.

Another which came to mind, especially for that front cabinet door, was mentioned by others regarding periodic lubrication with a lock lubricant as an operational service item, since those latches face forward and are mounted low and see a lot of 'stuff' from facing the wind and road debris as one travels. Thanks for bringing this up and hope you can get the latch issue resolved!

Oh, on attachments, our RV guru found some really cool nylon FRP captured spreader nuts for accepting fastening where one can't 'pull' the attachment, like a tensioner or awning attachment, into solid wood/aluminum. Home Depot sells them in the fastener area. Imagine them working a lot like a moly bolt but with a lot more capture spread area. Perhaps you have structure behind your attachment but we've run into issues where structure isn't available and they've simply run the screws/bolts into the honeycomb/FRP for a substandard attachment. It happens!
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:32 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by atom ant View Post
I went to a different bolt location on the arm, and reinstalled the originals in the original holes with new sealant.

I'm not sure given the choice if I would have went to lag bolts. I'd have to see the types and how they actually seal water out. Anything pushing back on the gelcoat can cause spider cracking. I had Carefree install an awning on my last rig and they just drilled holes and used lags similar to what I used, which are what the Carefree manual calls out.

Todd had his replaced with lag bolts by Redwood but I don't know what type they were. Would be interesting to see.
Nothing I said here mad sense - sorry Must have been distracted and used the word lag bolts in place of toggles.

I used Lags - would like to see what Toggles were used on Todds, as I'm curious how some of them would seal.
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Old 10-21-2014, 12:51 AM   #26
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I got a quick reply to my email, and everything is looking good. They wanted my vin, and said they would ship the items out. So far, so good, on quick service.
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:37 AM   #27
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Other minor items to check...
Regularly lube the door to the auto level system too... stuck for dealer BIG TIME during POI.
Check and lube suspension bolts and check grease zerks are tight.
Lube folding stairs... touch up chips and Trem Clad rust spots each year
Check bolts in levelling piston pads... previous posts have noted these may be loose
Use correct lube on hot water tank anode to make removal easy
Regularly check tire pressure and lug nut torque
Lube pin box.. I have a TrailAir with 8 grease zerks... lube TV hitch plate
Lube seals, racks, and rods for slides
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:26 PM   #28
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Ya missed one Brad - 9 zerk fittings
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Old 10-21-2014, 04:09 PM   #29
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Brad,
What do you use on the autolevel door? I'm afraid messing up the paint.
Mine was painted shut practically.
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Old 11-13-2014, 03:15 AM   #30
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Update: Both locks (slam lock and new Bauer door latch), keys for door in the back over the hitch, and the missing shower nozzle and hose for outside, all came in the mail today. So far, superb customer service, and an extra shout out for the guy that made it happen, Lynn Duggins.
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Old 11-13-2014, 04:57 AM   #31
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What is a good lube to use in the slam latches. Brand name would be nice. I had a key bend a little while unlocking one. Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:05 AM   #32
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While I would have rather used a dry graphite,
I had some of this and it freed up my locks well !
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:31 AM   #33
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Good deal Jerry, glad they came through!
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:25 PM   #34
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Both locks installed, and working great. I have put graphite powder in all locks, and they work great. Got the old locks boxed up, ready to send back to Lynn. NTM, he sent a prepaid call tag to send the old parts back with. At this point, RW is going above and beyond to make things easy.
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:30 PM   #35
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Always glad to hear this. It's important that the good news be shared along with the negative about Redwood so we may continue to make our minds now and in the future. Good deal!
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