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Old 08-03-2016, 06:21 AM   #21
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The answer to your question is short and direct. RW has engineered junk in the AC dept. They don't want to admit it. But the truth is this. When you pay this much for what is sold as a full timer unit it should be able to cool the RV during the summer. #1 problem? the air supply duct routed through the return air duct. Then leaving only about 2-4 inches of airflow space creating a huge restriction. #2 problem. Ducts are not insulated properly. Climb up on your roof early of the morning and notice sweat lines in line with the air supply duct line the length of the RV. #3 problem Return air vents located to far away from the T-Stats. In my unit a 38GK. Impossible to balance the temps in the bedroom compared to the living room. Daytime the bedroom will run 4 degrees warmer than the living room. At night the bed room will run 4-6 degrees cooler than the living room. Freeze you at night and burn you up during the day time. The Clima control insulation means absolutely nothing. In case you can't tell I am totally ticked off at the absolutely poorly designed AC system.
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:43 PM   #22
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We just returned from our first real test of the A/C while camping in super hot Kansas. Temps near 100, heat index 115 +, in full sun after mid-day. Inside living area topped out at 88 when the heat index was 118. On slightly cooler days we would max out at 82. Both thermostats set at 77.
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Old 08-04-2016, 02:00 AM   #23
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AC problems

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We just returned from our first real test of the A/C while camping in super hot Kansas. Temps near 100, heat index 115 +, in full sun after mid-day. Inside living area topped out at 88 when the heat index was 118. On slightly cooler days we would max out at 82. Both thermostats set at 77.
Steve, have you made all of the upgrades to your AC?
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:33 PM   #24
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Yesterday I upgraded all the vents and removed all the collars I used 3m Mylar type ducting tape. The duct joints were separated so the cold air could vent into the attic space. The tape allowed a very nice smooth transition across the joints. In one spot it appeared that some kind of tool was dropped on the ducting leaving another large hole for cold air to vent into the attic. The total job took about 7 hours of work to fix what I could reach. I did use my phone to take pictures up and down the supply duct and was not able to find any other damage. The return vents were cleansed up also. The A/C unit flows a lot more air now. Beings that I am in Ellsworth Maine for the whole summer and fallI most likely won't need it, but it is nice to know all the work is done.
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Old 08-04-2016, 03:17 PM   #25
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MSTAN, No I haven't. Going to do it this fall for sure when it cools down some. Hope to see some improvement after that.
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Old 08-04-2016, 04:23 PM   #26
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I have had a drastic improvement in air flow with the rear A/C only on I feel a nice cold blast of air in the bedroom. I also used the tape to terminate the air from pushing on further past the bedroom vents. I took a picture and it looked like the end of the cold air duct terminates in the closet but did not appear to have end caps on the ducting.
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:07 PM   #27
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That was my question... Did you block them off with foam & foil tape just past the outlets?

Also thinking of adding two more outllets in the bedroom ceiling between the bathroom wall and existing outlets.
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:24 PM   #28
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That was my question... Did you block them off with foam & foil tape just past the outlets?

Also thinking of adding two more outllets in the bedroom ceiling between the bathroom wall and existing outlets.
Yes I blocked them with foil bubble wrap. I was looking online for 5 more outlets and 4 return vents. I ran out of time yesterday because I was going to do the same with the return vent. There is some dead space behind them that goes all the way back to the hot side wall. I was hoping to place 2 outlet vents in the closet so I did not make the closure in the duct permanent.
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:59 PM   #29
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Yes I blocked them with foil bubble wrap. I was looking online for 5 more outlets and 4 return vents. I ran out of time yesterday because I was going to do the same with the return vent. There is some dead space behind them that goes all the way back to the hot side wall. I was hoping to place 2 outlet vents in the closet so I did not make the closure in the duct permanent.
I just completed installing the additional vents and returns on my 2012 36FL. I will find out how well it helps this weekend as we will be camping near Tyler, TX 100+ degrees. I got my return vents from here:
Air Return Vent

and my outlet vents from here:
https://www.dwincorp.com/categories/1/AC-Vents

When ordering the outlet vents don't forget the rings around the vents and the collar length to go up in the duct. I forgot the rings when ordering mine and had to order from them again.
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Old 08-04-2016, 10:20 PM   #30
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I'm going up on the roof again to make sure the foil tape seal I made between supply & return are still intact. It's been several months...
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Old 08-04-2016, 10:23 PM   #31
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Are those return ducts the exact match? I gave up looking and had Tiara order them for me.
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:40 PM   #32
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Are those return ducts the exact match? I gave up looking and had Tiara order them for me.
They were for my unit.
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:02 AM   #33
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They were for my unit.
Those are awesome
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:55 AM   #34
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The look just like the return vents in my Redwood

I looked and looked and could not find any so when I did my mod I also ordered my return vents from Tiara RV
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Old 08-05-2016, 01:08 AM   #35
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I'm going up on the roof again to make sure the foil tape seal I made between supply & return are still intact. It's been several months...
Can you add some pictures of that, cause when I pull the cover off my top units, I can't tell anything. Maybe I have a diiferent type unit. I believe mine are Airxcel Mach 15. All I can see are the evaporator coils and condensor coils. It looks like I would have to remove the whole unit to get to the air supply and return to see if there is good seperation.
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Old 08-05-2016, 03:05 AM   #36
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Mine is an RL, but ducting is same. After you pull off the shroud, the chambers in question are right in front of the condenser below the roofline. There should be grey foam under the AC frame (probably loose). Get some 3" foil tape and seal it tight. Search this forum for Air Conditioning to see lots of uploaded pictures - as this has been a continuing subject.
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Old 08-05-2016, 03:58 AM   #37
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The "shroud " is the metal cover with 6-8 small screws, remove the screws & pull/roll the metal towards the front of the coach to access the area referenced above.
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Old 08-05-2016, 01:54 PM   #38
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The "shroud " is the metal cover with 6-8 small screws, remove the screws & pull/roll the metal towards the front of the coach to access the area referenced above.
This will be another project in sure. All this forum does is feed my OCD. After all this thing is so poorly designed and constructed I have lots to do.
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Old 08-05-2016, 02:03 PM   #39
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Having a Redwood is like fixing up my GTO when I was in my teens/twenties. Boy, that was a while ago.
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Old 08-05-2016, 02:48 PM   #40
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Having a Redwood is like fixing up my GTO when I was in my teens/twenties. Boy, that was a while ago.
I am in the middle of repairing the kitchen sink. First the water valve leaked and the valve was hard to operate the steel ball was damaged with deep scratches in it went to Home Depot got a complete rebuild kit for it. The kitchen sink became unbounded form the countertop. And I just finished rebonding it last night and this morning going to caulk it. Changing the drain baskets from plastic to stainless steel
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