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Old 08-05-2016, 02:51 PM   #41
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I am in the middle of repairing the kitchen sink. First the water valve leaked and the valve was hard to operate the steel ball was damaged with deep scratches in it went to Home Depot got a complete rebuild kit for it. The kitchen sink became unbounded form the countertop. And I just finished rebonding it last night and this morning going to caulk it. Changing the drain baskets from plastic to stainless steel
This should go in the kitchen sink thread
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Old 08-05-2016, 02:58 PM   #42
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So far have done several mods on AC. The rear AC is blasting cold air now, but the front AC is still only about a third of the volume of the rear. Only thing left is additional returns as soon as the ducts come in from Tiara, but my optimism is fading. Since these are the same units, not sure why the huge disparity...
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Old 08-05-2016, 03:25 PM   #43
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So far have done several mods on AC. The rear AC is blasting cold air now, but the front AC is still only about a third of the volume of the rear. Only thing left is additional returns as soon as the ducts come in from Tiara, but my optimism is fading. Since these are the same units, not sure why the huge disparity...
When you place your new discharge vents in use your camera on your phone and take pictures in both directions of the ducting to see if there is a problem. I took those stupid rings off and made the discharge hole fron the 3m ducting tape. The space between the ducting and the ceiling was filled with insulation. The problem I found with the black rings was they allowed cold air to go into the attic space.
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Old 08-05-2016, 03:28 PM   #44
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This is the tape I use
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File Type: jpg image.jpg (164.7 KB, 3 views)
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:06 PM   #45
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The "shroud " is the metal cover with 6-8 small screws, remove the screws & pull/roll the metal towards the front of the coach to access the area referenced above.
http://old.rvcomfort.com/rvp/pdf_documents/r575.pdf

So are you talking about the item #4 Fan Shroud in this diagram?
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:14 PM   #46
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No, we're talking about #17.
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:20 PM   #47
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Yes only #17, you don't have to remove the side panels. Also there's 2 screws out in the middle of that #17 panel that don't need to be removed.
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:22 PM   #48
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No, we're talking about #17.
OK thanks for the info. When I pulled the plastic shroud off a while back, I had no idea what to do next. I will check it out soon but it's gonna have to cool off a little first. I see from the modification file now where that foam block is. I should have zoomed in on the picture more so I would have been able to figure it out. With the info you have given, I should not have any problem now.
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:28 PM   #49
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The foam gasket that is the problem is under #21 in the picture
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:43 PM   #50
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We have a '15 39MB and were in Maryland 3 weeks ago, and found the same thing with our unit. 94 outside with high humidity and could only cool the unit to 84 during the daytime. Our unit is cream base with the Tan/Burgandy combo paint.
My concern is when we are in a campground for 3 months with metered electric, the bill may be awful high due to AC running full blast all day.
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Allen
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:54 PM   #51
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Having the same problem with our unit. At 95 degrees and high humidity, could only get inside temp to 84 degrees.
Concerned about staying somewhere that meters the electric and the bill being out of site from the AC's running full blast all day.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Allen.
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Old 08-06-2016, 11:21 PM   #52
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We keep ours at 78 and in so Cal and they both run most of the day. Our electric runs around 90.00 per month.
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