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Old 08-04-2014, 01:22 AM   #21
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The main numbers you need to look at on a truck are the payload(hitch weight of the trailer), and the tow capacity(the weight of the trailer).
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:24 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboytoo View Post
Maybe, or the reference missed something..
lot's of variables - cab config, options, year, equipment, etc...

Yes, the abbrevs are hard to follow sometimes:
GVWR = Gross Vehicle weight rating
there is one for the truck and one for the rv
GCWR = Gross Combined Weight Rating
for the truck this is the total of the trucks weight and the carried/towed rv weight.
The GCWR is the number that matters. The GVWR is not including the trailer. It only includes the capacity of the truck, fluids, passengers. The GVWR of my truck is 9k. The GCWR is 25k. My truck being 8000, leaves 17,000 for the trailer weight. The payload of my truck is 5900. The hitch weight(payload for the truck) of my trailer comes in at 2700, plus clothes,etc, 2nd AC, and the washer/dryer. FTR, I never haul fluids in the trailer, except maybe a few gallons of water for emergency bathroom visits.
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:11 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboytoo View Post
Maybe, or the reference missed something..
lot's of variables - rear end ratio, cab config, options, year, equipment, etc...

Yes, the abbrevs are hard to follow sometimes:
GVWR = Gross Vehicle weight rating
there is one for the truck and one for the rv
my truck is 11.5k, my RW is 16.6k...
but that is not what either weigh,
the truck is more in the 8900 range and the rw 13k or so..

GCWR = Gross Combined Weight Rating
for the truck is 23.5k = this is the total of the trucks weight and the carried/towed rv weight.

my truck loaded with the rv's pin wgt and all I carry IS 400lbs over my trucks gvwr, but that's only when I have everyone and everything and full fuel, etc...
it goes down from there and is only full of fuel for a VERY short time @ 9 mpg

Not trying to justify anything I do, just putting it out there
hope this helps !
I don't think the pin weight factors into your truck's GVWR. That goes into your payload, and your trucks axle rating. Not 100% sure, but from my studies through the years, pretty sure. Your payload should be close to my Dodge, which is 5900. More than enough for just about any trailer made.
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:16 AM   #24
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The GCWR means nothing to me, and I have never been within that rating. Payload is what matters to me - payload means tire and axle capacity which I won't exceed regardless of what some might do.
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:22 AM   #25
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The GCWR means nothing to me, and I have never been within that rating. Payload is what matters to me - payload means tire and axle capacity which I won't exceed regardless of what some might do.
That's the main number I look at. With my dually, I don't know of a 5th wheel that gets close to my rating. FTR, I meant the main number of the two he posted, GVWR and GCWR.
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:47 AM   #26
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GVWR includes ANY weight that is born by the truck wheels.. That means fluids, people, cargo, and ......... PIN WEIGHT

The biggie in a single wheel truck will be Rear axle weight rating and tire rating. For example, on my old F350 SRW, the rear axle was 7000 lbs, tires were rated at 3580 each if memory serves. When we were loaded with full fuel, rear axle weight was about 7500. The thought of possibly blowing a rear axle tire at speed just didn't sit well one of the reasons besides stability that I traded a really nice 8 month old truck on a F350. CC DRW Difference in towing and stability and safety is night nd day.

FWIW, with the single wheel I was also over on GCWR too by about 1500 lbs.
Please note, all my weights were done by portable individual wheel scales by a DOT enforcement officer.
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Old 08-04-2014, 03:19 AM   #27
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With a 36 FL we load the rear axle of a F350 SRW to within 150 lbs of max load. This is keeping the pin weight to 3000 lbs, which means no water, no generator or W/D.

We are getting a F450 for piece of mind and the ability to carry some water.
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Old 08-04-2014, 03:23 AM   #28
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The end result is these Redwoods are heavy, if you are going to pull one with any thoughts of safety - you need a 350/3500 series dually. The weight ratings on the axels and the tires prove it. Sorry if I offend those of you still living a gifted life pulling with SRW 250 & 350 pickups.
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Old 08-04-2014, 03:24 AM   #29
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I tow my 36RE with a 2500 but I go with the bare minimum equipment and all water tanks empty and have not had a problem. If my wife was traveling with the extra stuff she would need I would have to get another truck. I would load and check weights. I have a very stabile ride. But I only use about one third of the available storage. My biggest add on in weight is my clothes I have been at this assignment long enough I now have both winter and summer clothes.
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Old 08-04-2014, 03:40 AM   #30
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We pulled our previous 5th Wheel a few times with a 2500 SRW, it was about 800 to 1000 lbs. lighter than our Redwood.
After a trip to Texas with the 2500, we traded for the 3500 DRW, wow what a difference.
Once we got in Western LA and TX the winds were blowing us all over the road.
We have made the trip to TX several times since we got the 3500 DRW, no more white knuckles now !!
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:15 AM   #31
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I have a 31sl and pull it with a 2011 SRW Ford F350 CC Long Bed. The curb weight of my truck is 6992. I add approximately 950 lbs for 2 passengers, fuel and the hitch which brings my vehicle weight to around 7900 lbs. My 31sl pin weight adds another 2520 lbs which brings my Gross vehicle weight to 10420 lbs. My GVWR for my truck is 11,100 lbs. That means I'm around 675 lbs below the GVWR for my truck. Granted, I do not have a generator and I do not pull with water or Gray/Black tanks full or partially full. My trailer axles came in at 10560 lbs so my axle weight is well within the 7,000 lb axles and "E" rated tires. When I add all those weights together my GCVW is around 21,000 lbs. MY vehicles GCVWR is 23,500 so I am currently 2,500 lbs below that rating. We are very careful about what we load into the fiver, we only load what we need and we have spent 5 months at a time living in a fifth wheel so we have managed to choose what is important to us and what is not. I'm not advocating by any means that everyone could pull their fifth wheels with my truck but each individual must go through the scales to know for sure if they will not be exceeding maximums. I'm happy with mine and it works for us and we don't have to drive that dually every where we go when we are travelling. Stability has not been an issue for me and I don't pull over 60 MPH. I'm comfortable with my decision and feel safe. Could it possibly be better with a dually? Probably, but I looked at the entire picture and made an educated decision that worked for us. All I can say is do your homework.
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:39 AM   #32
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I agree with everone and each person has an opinion. But if your not a full time 5er and is just getting into the groove of traveling you should at least make sure you have what it takes to be safe. If not for yourself it's everyone else not in your vehicle trying to get from point a to point b. I agree go dually 1 ton if you love traveling and want to make it permanent But a single rear wheel will suffice for now as well in a 1 ton long bed. It's not so easy getting a parking spot for a dually compared to a single rear wheel. But to each there own and for now a srw is what I have and drw will be my future truck when I drive this one in its grave and it's a gonna be a while so be happy and safe travel
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:37 PM   #33
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Agree. and no need to apologize Diesel Chaser, no ones feelings are hurt !

Just a LONG time ago, I learned that 'absolute' statements are usually wrong in some cases Yes, they might indicate the trends, but not always.

Obvious that some don't understand the differences between GVWR, GCWR, GAWR, etc... but I studied it on my first 5er and carried it over to the later ones.

I also am not endangering anyone, especially given that the same trucks with the same axles are rated much more in some configurations, so you know there is some extra capacity somewhere
Pull the part numbers and go talk to the manufacturer of the part, not the mfg of the truck...

But alas, parked in the storage building is certainly not what I wanted when I did all my calculations
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:09 PM   #34
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Red face I would not

I pull Mine With a 350 Ford with air bags for safty and dealer specs I would not My 36 rl and truck weight 25K
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Old 08-05-2014, 04:03 AM   #35
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I just wanted to thank every one for all the input, my wife and I really appreciate it. It has been really helpful and insightful on where we stand in our current situation.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:49 PM   #36
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When we bought our 36RL in April, I asked if I had enough truck. The dealer said "Oh yeah!". We had a 2000 F350 7.3 Powerstroke, which was 'king of the trucks' back then. We bought the Redwood and the truck was so anemic. I found out that our old truck only had 235hp and 500ft/lbs of torque. The new 2014 F350 we bought has 400hp and 800ft/lbs of torque. Man oh man, what a difference. So much improvement in all features that keep you safe in your rig, not to mention liability if you get into a wreck and you are overgross.

Bottom line is I don't think you have enough truck. These Redwoods are heavy, heavy. To do the job right you need the right towing vehicle. By the way, ours is single rear wheel and meets our needs very well. Love it.

Good luck.
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:43 PM   #37
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Hello all,new to the forum. Any help would be appreciated.
Just purchased a new 2014 RW 31SL. I have a 2008 Chevy 2500HD I bought new in 2008 has only 28,000 miles on it. It has 3 coolers, engine, oil and trans. The RV dealer said I had enough truck. My Chevy dealer said the same thing. Now after reading some posts I am worried. We live in Michigan and go to mostly state parks and a few private camps. Few hills but small. In the years to come plan on going to Florida but not anytime soon.
Never pull my 5th wheels with water.
What ya think?
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:52 PM   #38
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Barry,
It is the smallest of the Redwood line. Your GVWR for the trailer is 16500 with a carrying capacity of 4380. That leaves you more room than most of us. So depending on your load, you might be close.

Best (and really only way to tell) is when loaded, head to the scales and weigh your truck and trailer. If you can, get the readings for the front axle, then the whole truck. You can subtract the whole truck to get the rear axle load. Then weigh the trailer.

Then you can tell where you're at. Anything else is a guess.

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Old 08-08-2014, 12:33 AM   #39
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Barry, My experience through the years with the RV people and the car dealers is that they will tell you anything to get you to buy the product. Most of the truck dealers I have dealt with don't even know what the tow ratings or GCVWR is for their vehicle. They've been told that it will pull anything. I have a 2013 31SL and when I purchased it my tow vehicle was a 2004 Dodge 2500 Cummins diesel. It pulled the 31SL without any problems but it was only rated to pull 14,000 lbs and I was also approaching the GCVWR without being totally loaded with everything so I chose to upgrade to a 2011 F350 SRW CC. I was afraid if there was any kind of accident down the road and it was determined I was overweight at all, I would be held responsible. Not worth the chance. Do your homework, weigh your rig and check it against the numbers then decide.
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Old 08-08-2014, 12:45 AM   #40
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The most important thing to me on a SRW is tire capacity. Pull it on a CAT scale loaded and see what you are putting on the rear tires. The rest of it - ah take it for what it is worth....
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