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Old 10-14-2016, 05:36 AM   #1
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Toilet tank removal...

After numerous fix and refix we are planning on straight piping sewer ( bypass the black tank.) and take black ( bladder type ) tank for waste off and out Pipe to toilet and out should be easy just don't know what we are getting into as how the toilet is connected to tank under trailer ... Anyone know of a diagram of sorts to see about toilet to tank hook up ??
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Old 10-14-2016, 02:06 PM   #2
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That sounds like a drastic measure

I guess you are sure you want to lose the use of the toilet when not connected?!?
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Old 10-14-2016, 03:19 PM   #3
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I would agree that this step would be drastic and would significantly devalue the unit if you were to sell it. What problems are you having to take this step?
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Old 10-14-2016, 04:24 PM   #4
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We would always have use of toilet connect pvc pipes as in park models we never park without sewer hookup.
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Old 10-14-2016, 04:56 PM   #5
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Turning the Redwood into a park model does not seem like a good idea.

How about installing electric valves with the controls inside to make it more convenient. I am assuming the main reason to remove the black tank is to eliminate the hassle of dumping and flushing.

For the technically inclined, you could even automate the system with a cheap PLC.
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Old 10-14-2016, 06:10 PM   #6
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If you do this, no way would I, you will most likely need to install a residential toilet in order to have enough water to move everything down the line & in my model that wouldn't fit. Your toilet is not plumbed directly onto the tank, but has about a 3' angled section from toilet to tank. IMHO, you are attempting a very drastic & possibly expensive (installation & loss of value on your RW) to save 10 minutes a week of unpleasantness, that's as long as it takes me to drain & flush my black once a week & you will no longer be able to use your toilet while traveling, truck stop potties here we come.
But FYI, there are 2 bolts holding the toilet to the floor, the piping flange is also screwed to the floor with a foam gasket between, then piping either has a couple 45 degree bends or maybe straight down & is supposed to be glued to the tank & also has another 2" pipe on the opposite end of the tank which extends through the roof that will have to be plumbed back to the new drain line some how the be used as a vent.
Good luck with this project & be sure to post a lot of pictures as the project progresses!!
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:02 PM   #7
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You state you have had to fix and re-fix, what exactly is the trouble that is driving you to bypass the tank?
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve & Kim View Post
After numerous fix and refix we are planning on straight piping sewer ( bypass the black tank.) and take black ( bladder type ) tank for waste off and out Pipe to toilet and out should be easy just don't know what we are getting into as how the toilet is connected to tank under trailer ... Anyone know of a diagram of sorts to see about toilet to tank hook up ??
My question is: who is doing the fixing and re-fixing. Most RV dealers/service centers have some really incompetent staff that either don't know what they are doing, or the really don't care how they fix it because you will be down the road, and they got your money. If you return to the forum and help us with some information we may have some ideas to help you sort out problems. Sometimes if you are having plumbing issues then call a real plumber and have them take a look at it. They do this everyday. (Pipes are pipes) if the tank is breaking away from its mounts take it to a welder he knows what to do with a piece of steel. In most cases they will see all the weak links in the manufacturing and bring resolve to the issues. I have zero confidence in dealers. Most of then hire one main knowledge person and an army of idiots for minimum wage to carry out the work.
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:39 PM   #9
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Also if it's the crappy ( pardon the pun) Thetford toilet then replace it with a Dometic 310 or 320, that requires a lot less work/expense than your suggesting.
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Old 10-16-2016, 05:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve & Kim View Post
After numerous fix and refix we are planning on straight piping sewer ( bypass the black tank.) and take black ( bladder type ) tank for waste off and out Pipe to toilet and out should be easy just don't know what we are getting into as how the toilet is connected to tank under trailer ... Anyone know of a diagram of sorts to see about toilet to tank hook up ??

I had a 1955 Silver Streak TT that was set up like that from the factory but we never used that design.

As others have said, there's more than one manufacture of the RV toilets and some are better than others.
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Old 10-17-2016, 01:33 AM   #11
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I've had no problems with our RW holding tank except for the drain valves always leak out over the road a bit so I installed another gate valve at the end connection but we have the FL. and our toilet dumps straight down about 10" and it's in the tank.
I did switch out the toilet to a much better one. Not because of a problem but trying to avoid one and we also wanted a sprayer.

Steve
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Old 10-17-2016, 02:32 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve & Kim View Post
We would always have use of toilet connect pvc pipes as in park models we never park without sewer hookup.
What model of trailer do you have and what are the issues with it
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Old 10-23-2016, 04:56 AM   #13
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We have a 2012 36 FB and our toilet has overflown twice in the past 2 weeks... We have been careful to check it out before bedtime and used it in the middle of the night (4:30 AM and everything checked ok...Back to bed. But by 6 AM toilet is running over...Still don't know why...Guess I will install a shutoff valve and close the darn thing every night before bed. Any Ideas as to what causes this to happen?
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Old 10-23-2016, 05:23 AM   #14
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I would guess that your water valve to the toilet is not shutting off completely, or not sealing properly. This would allow water to continue to fill the bowl. I would replace the valve. Some folks on the forum have also installed a shut off valve to have the option of completely shutting off the water supply to the toilet...normally to use when away from the coach for an extended amount of time.

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Old 10-23-2016, 05:57 AM   #15
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Don't try to repair the Thetford, just replace it with the Dometic 310 or 320, you'll be money ahead. Be sure to go ahead & add the shut off at the toilet while your at it. The repair parts for Thetford are expensive & may still leak, I spent $70 for the pedal & then it started leaking & then replaced the toilet.
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Old 10-23-2016, 06:01 AM   #16
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Wonder how it worked out for the OP? Haven't heard anything from them.
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Old 10-23-2016, 04:00 PM   #17
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I am also a believer of battery operated water alarms. You can get these at Lowes for about $10-14 each. At least you will be able to sleep at nite instead of getting up every 10 minutes to check the toilet. These little gizmos have saved us several times from possible damage. I have one in the basement where all the piping is, under each sink and on the floor behind the toilet. Another word of caution. Put a simple shutoff valve at the water supply outside, and whenever you leave your unit for any length of time shut off the water. I have witnessed people returning to their unit only to find water running out from underneath. You don't want to hear about what the water looked like inside when they opened the door. Water will always win, no matter how small of a leak there is!!!
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Old 10-23-2016, 05:57 PM   #18
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1 am still using our Thetford after 3 years fulltime. It started tout leak water twice in this time. I spray the heck out of the pedal with CRC and it works fine. Every so often put plumbers grease on the seal when it starts leaking. Been lucky it has not overflowed yet.we shut water off to the trailer when gone overnight
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Old 10-24-2016, 03:20 AM   #19
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Royce, don't know if you have a pressure regulator or not, but the only time we overflowed ours was when in a hurry didn't put on the regulator. Since that day I won't connect the water without the regulator first.
Also talked to Thetford Tech Support and they thought anything over 60 psi could cause the valve to fail to fully close. Just a thought.
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