Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-31-2013, 11:50 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
Oregonbound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 224
Someone mentioned using dish soap to clean and vegetable oil to lubricate the gate valves. Fill with soapy water and repeatedly open/close gate valves. Drain and then do the same with a few cups of oil. Any opinions/suggestions/concerns would be much appreciated. Thanks.
__________________
Ian & Cara (Copper the canine)
Vancouver, WA
2014 36FL, DW, W/D, CVac, Full Body Paint
2011 Ram 3500 Laramie Longhorn 6.7L TD, SRW, 4X4.

Oregonbound is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2013, 12:39 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
rcflame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 619
Have never lubricated the valves and have never had a problem. If there is a problem, I expect it to be in the cables running from the valves to the pull handles.
__________________
Roger & Cheryl Full Time since 2002, RVing since 1975 2008 Chevy 3500 Crew Cab Dually, 2012 RW 36RL
rcflame is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2013, 01:50 PM   #3
Site Team
 
Blenhardt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 650
I was using dish soap because my valves were hard to pull. Someone mentioned that the soap would actually make it harder to open the valves. I am now using some valve lube sold, I think by Thetford, and they are much better. I am convinced that the problem was in the valve body and not the cable. The vegetable oil might be a cheaper alternative?
__________________
2013 Redwood 34SK, 2017 F350 Dually
Grain Valley, Mo
Blenhardt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2013, 07:49 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
travelin' texans's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,866
I use the dish soap method about everyother tank flush, also add vegetable oil occasionally, valves work smoothly, but neither help the level indicators.
__________________
Danny & Linda
Former '13 FB owner
Currently rvless!
travelin' texans is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2013, 10:05 PM   #5
Site Team
 
Dave&Ginny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5,379
I've tried the veggy oil but not sure it helped. I'm just not sold on the cable valves
__________________
SOB "The RV Wiseguy"
Dave&Ginny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2013, 01:58 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
rcflame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 619
The galley and grey tanks get soap in them through normal use, The black gets soap in it through a soap solution I use to clean medical supplies and dump down the stool. In the five fifth wheels we have had, have never had a problem with the valves themselves. This is the first one we have had with the cables, and they seem harder to pull than the ones with the straight hookup. Will have to see if they cause problems down the road.
__________________
Roger & Cheryl Full Time since 2002, RVing since 1975 2008 Chevy 3500 Crew Cab Dually, 2012 RW 36RL
rcflame is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2013, 10:57 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
atom ant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
You have to expect that the cables are going to be more resistive than the direct rods.

Anybody tried the electric?
__________________
Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
atom ant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2013, 11:50 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Oregonbound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 224
Are the cables somewhat resistive for other folks? Mine just feel like they need some lubrication but maybe that's the way they are built…normal.

The soap and veg. oil didn't seem to make a difference for two of the valves but the third one that was really sticky now seems to be working the same as the other two. I guess a success.

If they ever do break down, will definitely look into electric ones.
__________________
Ian & Cara (Copper the canine)
Vancouver, WA
2014 36FL, DW, W/D, CVac, Full Body Paint
2011 Ram 3500 Laramie Longhorn 6.7L TD, SRW, 4X4.

Oregonbound is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 02:37 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
AlanN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 234
What have you all found to be an effective preventative maintenance procedure to keep the cables pliable and easy to open/close? We'll be taking delivery of a new Redwood 38 GK at the end of June. This unit uses cable controlled waste valves as well. We'll be full-timing soon after, and I plan to keep the valves closed for daily living, then opening and flushing tanks when the BW tank reaches about half full. So this may be every 3-5 days - time will tell. I read about the problems people have, and just wonder if many could be averted by an effective regimen from the beginning. Thanks in advance.
__________________
Alan & Angele
2014 RW 38GK, Curt Q24 Hitch.
2014 Ram 3500 crew cab dually. Knapheide low-profile Westerner utility body.
Full-timing starting in August, 2014
AlanN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2014, 03:29 PM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 45
With the valves open I put a couple drops of 3 in 1 oil on the shaft and close the valve for a few days. The oil will penetrate down the cable. Never had a problem.
__________________
RR
rayrussel is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Redwood RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:30 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.