I am still battling an issue with one of the 120v circuits that powers the microwave in the driver's side slide. I switched the microwave circuit with the fireplace circuit( both are 15A)at Anderson clip going into the slide the microwave works. I've also done the following:
1. Replaced the breaker
2. Checked power at the breaker- reading 120v
3. Checked all connections to ground and neutral bar for all circuits and also checked main grounding bar behind the breaker box- All good.
4. Remove the Anderson clip from the microwave circuit, stripped the wires and tested it with a multi-meter- No power
5. Checked all the connections in the junction box behind in the lower cabinet wall- all good except the microwave circuit.
6. Checked all the GCFI outlets including the main reset in the bathroom and all have power.
7. Checked or confirmed power to all other outlets in my rig- all good
It's been suggested there may be a relay somewhere in the circuit that may need to be replaced or reset, contacted Crossroads but they can't or won't provide me with an electrical Schematic, referring me to a dealer. At this point my only option is to pull new wire it, in fact, this is even possible.
Thatís a good one! I canít imagine a relay, that doesnít make sense. You might check the wire loom that feeds the slide. It travels with the slide and perhaps it was cut or broken during its travel in and out.
Thanks, Ken, I'll work on it a couple more days, If I can't figure it out, I'll pull a new line to the slide. Crossroads did respond and said they preferred I take it to a dealer but I've been working maintenance for twenty years and my hourly rate is $0.00. If you think of anything else, please let me know...
I had nearly the identical problem and ours turned out to be the "Anderson Plug connector". It should have romex on one side, and flexible rubber cord on the other. If you absolutely don't have power on either side of this plug , then I think that means a break in the romex from there back to the breaker box. I don't think there's any other junction point or "relay" in between. If this is in fact the case, then running a new romex would be the only solution.
Jim & Mary 2013 36 RL with Titan Disc Brakes Residential Fridge Goodyear 17.5 H rated tires MORryde IS, MORryde pin box 2015 Ford F350 King Ranch DRW
I seriously doubt there is a relay. As said check the black cable under the slide. I had a problem with one on the opposite slide. There will be a junction where the flexible cable meets the house wire on both ends.
Talked to a guy today who said the wires are run around the slide supports and there is possibly a second junction box between the frame and the junction box in the lower cabinet inside the rig. It's not uncommon to have the wires pulled out of that frame mounted junction box by the slide support arms. I will tear it down tomorrow and see what I find. I appreciate all the input, will update you on what I find.
I was a general contractor for ten years and I can say this is scary. I was expecting to find wires pulled out of a junction box but it turns out, the 120v system is strapped to the steel cross members of the support frame of my rig with no protection. Redwood (Crossroads) didn't even bother to use the fastener loop on the wire tie they used. I found a 120v wire rubbing against the frame, sparks and all and the breaker never tripped. This wasn't a mistake because they did the same thing on every other tie point along the wire bundle. This is beyond poor workmanship, it's negligence worthy of a Class Action Law Suit and I will be talking to my attorney. They ran the 12 volt down the other side the same way.
In the pictures, you can see how the wires were secured at the factory the last picture shows where the wires are rubbing against the sheet metal at the back of the RV.
To fix it, I cut lengths of 1" flex conduit into eight-inch pieces, split it down one side and slid it over the wires at each cross member (pic 1). It's held in place with wire ties. Tomorrow I will do the same with the 12 volt side tomorrow (pic 3)
My suggestion to anyone who owns one of these overpriced pieces of crap, pull the underbelly and make sure you are not facing the same issue. We were lucky we didn't have a fire.
I would be real interested to here what your attorney will say and what can be done. As you mentioned this is not just poor quality control but NO quality control!!!!
There is no other words that can be used except negligence that will result in deaths or serious injuries. Would be real interesting if insurance companies see these problem? We could never insure our rigs.
If you haven't posted this on the ROG site please do as Redwood monitors that site or at least they say they do.
Retired 2014 Redwood 36FL and 2015 GMC Denali 3500 DW Duramax but Now a 2020 Tiffin Allegro Bus with a 2022 GMC Canyon Denali toad.
I like to take time to evaluate the impact of my actions, and you make a good point about the insurance issue. It's a numbers game with most companies, and the odds are in their favor. The publicity of a class action lawsuit might make it difficult to find insurance or create cause for a claim to be denied. I'm going to do some research on the construction standards for RV's to see if what I found represents a violation of existing rules before I talk to my attorney.
I believe what your seeing is the industry standards , poor practices. I have been a Forman for a large electrical contractor for 30+ years . RV's in NO way follow the installation practices we use for any form of modern construction of any type. I think you maybe able to recover your money if you send a letter to trailer life , they have a help section that owner write in trying to get money from dealer and manufactures for out of pocket repairs that shouldn't have been a problem to being with. Wish you luck , Not sure if lawyer road is going to help or cause problems .
Mark & Melissa
2015 Redwood RL38 , Kodiak disk brakes , 17.5" tires , 8K Morryde IS , 2020 GMC 3500 DRW
The main AC unit has been fine and out of the blue, the AC unit stopped working regardless of what setting I use. I ran the thermostat up to 90 and switched over to the heat pump, nothing there either. Checked and cycled all the breakers on the interior panel and at the service box. Below is an image of the thermostat that came with the rig. The unit is a Coleman-Mach Model #48004-869
Not liking my Redwood right now. Any help is appreciated...
After completing the following, I was able to determine there is no 120v power at the AC unit. But thought it would be helpful for others to see the process I followed troubleshooting this problem. To follow are the step I took in to establish a loss of power to the unit:
1. Checked power at pedestal-both legs good
2. Checked power at the breaker- 120v
3. Checked all 12v fuses in the breaker box. All good.
4. Checked fuse and power to Thermostat. Good.
5. Bypassed the thermostat-jumped 12v power directly. AC Unit did not respond.
6. Check both capacitors with a multimeter. Both are good
7. Turned shore power on and check the 120v power to the AC before it drops into the capacitors-No power.
The AC unit is mounted right next to my Maxair fan, directly over the island in the kitchen and I am wondering if the trim above the island light (see image) is hiding access to the AC unit 120v power. My thought would be the connections to the AC unit are in a junction box that's hidden under the ceiling trim. I really don't want to pull the AC unit unless it's my own only option.
I appreciate any ideas or suggestions you may have...
You probably already checked when you were in the breaker panel, but did you verify that you have 120V coming off the breaker for the AC? I would check all the breakers as I have found some of my breakers don't match the installed labels.
Michelle & Ann
2018 Chevy 3500HD Crew Cab High Country DRW, D/A, 2016 RW39MB, Dual ACs, Auto Level, Auto Sat Dish, Stack W/D, King Sleep #, 17.5" Sailuns w/Disc, MORryde IS & Pin, Comfort Ride Hitch, 5.5 Onan, Res Fridge & Induction Cook Top