Truck Tail Gate Question - Page 4

atom ant · 07-22-2015, 09:21 PM

Well we have the same hitch and the same pinbox, but nothing slick about it for me - in fact a pain in the Keester. Memory is worthless because the connection height is much lower than the disconnection height.

I guess I'll just have to watch you do it someday and get educated.

RCAircraft · 07-22-2015, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atom ant

Well we have the same hitch and the same pinbox, but nothing slick about it for me - in fact a pain in the Keester. Memory is worthless because the connection height is much lower than the disconnection height.

I guess I'll just have to watch you do it someday and get educated.

Does your auto leveling system automatically return your rig to the disconnect height? Mine does most of the time.

My disconnect height is very different than the leveled height which is lower than the disconnect height. There are times that I need to adjust the hitching height due to ground conditions (hard soaking rains). I eyeball the correct height for these occasions which has become better over time. The window for correct hitching height is about +/-3 inches for my rig.

atom ant · 07-22-2015, 10:19 PM

It does, however when I disconnect I raise the pin box until I see light between the pin box and hitch, which is way to high a position to hitch at, so I don't really find any value of it returning me to the disconnect height. I suppose I could use it to ballpark me, but I haven't.

RCAircraft · 07-23-2015, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atom ant

It does, however when I disconnect I raise the pin box until I see light between the pin box and hitch, which is way to high a position to hitch at, so I don't really find any value of it returning me to the disconnect height. I suppose I could use it to ballpark me, but I haven't.

To disconnect, I raise the rig until there is about a half inch clearance between the king pin plate plastic disk (same as you described) and the slide plate then, with the tail gate down, safety cable and power cable disconnected I pull the latch release. The rig does go up some distance as the truck continues to raise back to no load position. After I clear the truck from the rig area I select auto level and down she comes to the level position. All this takes about two minutes or less while the reconnect process is about the same time. In a snow or ice storm this seems much longer!

Jim & Mary · 07-23-2015, 02:11 AM

AA

I have the B&W companion hitch (installed into the Ford bed puck system) and I have the same height guessing problem as you. Takes me three, four or five trips out of the truck, back to the bed, back to the truck, etc. before I can back the truck home to complete the task. Haven't figured out how to make it easier yet.

RCAircraft · 07-23-2015, 03:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Mary

AA

I have the B&W companion hitch (installed into the Ford bed puck system) and I have the same height guessing problem as you. Takes me three, four or five trips out of the truck, back to the bed, back to the truck, etc. before I can back the truck home to complete the task. Haven't figured out how to make it easier yet.

Just thinking - since the trailer hitch height is the same, in respect to the truck perhaps measuring the distance from the ground to the hitch plate, would reduce the guessing. A stick cut to that length could also help. Could take the measurement just after unhitching.

Char & Steve · 07-23-2015, 03:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Mary

AA

I have the B&W companion hitch (installed into the Ford bed puck system) and I have the same height guessing problem as you. Takes me three, four or five trips out of the truck, back to the bed, back to the truck, etc. before I can back the truck home to complete the task. Haven't figured out how to make it easier yet.

I have the same hitch and I just back within about 8" of the pin and go check and usually have to raise just so it looks like it's about an inch over the plate which is angled down a bit and then slips right on in. If my bed cover is on.... well that is another story which I'm working on.

Steve

superduty glampers · 07-23-2015, 09:01 PM

I have the trailer saver TS3 that has air bags so the hitch is never at the same hight, so I have DW back the truck in as I ajust trailer hight. Way easier then jumping in and out of the truck.

**piper guy** · 07-23-2015, 09:47 PM

Tracy and I do about the same as Superduty only I'm in the truck. She'll stop me about afoot away from pin and raise the nose to where it needs to be. We know pretty much where on the ramp of the hitch the plate needs to contact. Have got it down now that very seldom is it not hitched first time.
Mine is the Ford Reese 25k

atom ant · 07-23-2015, 10:09 PM

Vaughan, do you have the tri-glide as well?

superduty glampers · 07-23-2015, 10:18 PM

Dang Vaughan, you could at least let Tracy have the sit down job. LoL

**piper guy** · 07-23-2015, 10:36 PM

Yup and air bags

atom ant · 07-23-2015, 11:47 PM

so here is my problem with both Elite Reese hitches I have had:

The angle of approach they require puts the base of the pin box plate near the bottom of the hitch. Add the fact the Tri-glide is actually angled the opposite way on approach, there are two apposing angles trying to mesh. if I don't get it exactly right, the pin box climbs the hitch, the top of the pin hits the release at the back of the hitch slot before anything is aligned (the pin box hasn't compressed nor has the hitch tipped forward) and "bang"... the hitch tries to lock and the pin climbs up on top of the wraparound jaw resulting in a top-pin, and I have to start all over.

It gets worse if the campsite puts the truck at a front up angle.

Just me complaining - but I cuss this thing a lot.

**hoosierguy** · 07-24-2015, 12:44 AM

[QUOTE=RCAircraft;50873]Just thinking - since the trailer hitch height is the same, in respect to the truck perhaps measuring the distance from the ground to the hitch plate, would reduce the guessing. A stick cut to that length could also help. Could take the measurement just after unhitching.[/QUOTE

I have always used a tape measure to check from the bottom edge of the trailer over-hang to ground. For me it is 65 inches when measured straight down from BR slide bottom edge. After retracting the rear jacks, I raise the the front of the trailer until I get the correct measurement and then back the truck into the king pin. I center the hitch on the king pin by looking through the rear truck window. Sometimes, it takes a couple of tries but it works for me.

Shane Wood · 07-24-2015, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atom ant

so here is my problem with both Elite Reese hitches I have had:

The angle of approach they require puts the base of the pin box plate near the bottom of the hitch. Add the fact the Tri-glide is actually angled the opposite way on approach, there are two apposing angles trying to mesh. if I don't get it exactly right, the pin box climbs the hitch, the top of the pin hits the release at the back of the hitch slot before anything is aligned (the pin box hasn't compressed nor has the hitch tipped forward) and "bang"... the hitch tries to lock and the pin climbs up on top of the wraparound jaw resulting in a top-pin, and I have to start all over.

It gets worse if the campsite puts the truck at a front up angle.

Just me complaining - but I cuss this thing a lot.

When back in the pin box should be positioned like the pic. The trailer should lift up off the jacks somewhat and it will slide into position. I know that doing this the first few times scares the sh!! Out of you but it allows there to be a little weight from the kingpin on the hitch plate and you will not ride to high. Pulling out from under you lift until you have 1\4 inch air pace and pull out. The reason for this is so you are not dragging the stabilizers. Unless because of the angle you have, doing this causes the pin box to bind against the hitch. You could have a machine shop bend the front portion of the pin box plate up so it does not bind. If the trailer resets to where you unhooked and the tow vehicle is in the same spot it should rehook. I have used the Reese hitches for years and have had no problems. I have always had regular pin boxes not the new air ride system

RCAircraft · 07-24-2015, 02:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shane Wood

When back in the pin box should be positioned like the pic. The trailer should lift up off the jacks somewhat and it will slide into position. I know that doing this the first few times scares the sh!! Out of you but it allows there to be a little weight from the kingpin on the hitch plate and you will not ride to high. Pulling out from under you lift until you have 1\4 inch air pace and pull out. The reason for this is so you are not dragging the stabilizers. Unless because of the angle you have, doing this causes the pin box to bind against the hitch. You could have a machine shop bend the front portion of the pin box plate up so it does not bind. If the trailer resets to where you unhooked and the tow vehicle is in the same spot it should rehook. I have used the Reese hitches for years and have had no problems. I have always had regular pin boxes not the new air ride system

Ditto. The TrailAir to Reese has not been an issue for me. First attempt is spot on.

**piper guy** · 07-24-2015, 04:02 AM

Brad - try putting the bend in the TrailAir skid plate about an inch down from the flat base of the hitch as you back in. We very seldom don't get a good hitch on the first try. Even if I'm by myself. It will scare you the first time like Shane said as there is a good bit of resistance as you back in that last 8-10" or so.

You get rewarded with a loud satisfying clank as the jaws shut. I have the jaw on mine painted white so that we can tell at a glance that it's latched.

TnB · 07-24-2015, 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Char & Steve

Just added a small bracket like yours and will pick up the new cable when we get to a camping World again. Problem solved.
I see you mentioned the Tri fold cover which we decided on a few months ago and love the looks but now I have found out when folded up, I can't see my hitch to hook up so I'm thinking I should have purchased a roll up cover?? Maybe ad a camera? For now I leave the cover at home when we travel.

Steve

I have that cover also. My solution is to stick a 18" piece of 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe into the hitch before backing up. This is an alignment device and a distance device. When the pipe just touches the shock absorber of the pin, I stop and take the PVC pipe out. The hitch and the pin are in alignment, ready to connect.

atom ant · 07-24-2015, 02:50 PM

I assume you guys put wheel chocks in the back before hitching if you are raising the front off the ground with the hitch? Otherwise what prevents it from just rolling back rather than hitching?

RCAircraft · 07-24-2015, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atom ant

I assume you guys put wheel chocks in the back before hitching if you are raising the front off the ground with the hitch? Otherwise what prevents it from just rolling back rather than hitching?

I use wheel chocks however the connection is so smooth there is very little movement. The UHMW skid disk on the TrailAir seems to help reduce frictional forces. Also, with my truck's rear seat folded down I have a clear view of the hitch and pin.

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