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Old 11-28-2023, 02:03 PM   #1
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Hot Water Heater Bypass Valve

I have a 2017 36RL. When I started the winterization process I removed the anode from the water heater, switched the hot water heater to bypass, turned on the pump and began pumping pink antifreeze into the lines. However, I noticed that a small amount of pink antifreeze was dripping from my water heater where i had removed the anode. I assume that my bypass valve is not seating properly. I then removed the screws attached to the bypass valve and discovered that I will probably have to get to the valve from behind the convenience bay wall. Has anyone changed the hot water heater bypass valve?
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Old 11-28-2023, 03:08 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl & Patti View Post
I have a 2017 36RL. When I started the winterization process I removed the anode from the water heater, switched the hot water heater to bypass, turned on the pump and began pumping pink antifreeze into the lines. However, I noticed that a small amount of pink antifreeze was dripping from my water heater where i had removed the anode. I assume that my bypass valve is not seating properly. I then removed the screws attached to the bypass valve and discovered that I will probably have to get to the valve from behind the convenience bay wall. Has anyone changed the hot water heater bypass valve?
I had to replace the by-pass for my water heater in October 2020. I found the following part on Amazon at that time.

Thetford Winterizing Diverter Valve PN 94230
Visit the Thetford Store
4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars 52 ratings
$81.95

I installed new fittings on the pex tubing on the back side of the utility center to make replacement in the future a little easier.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-28-2023, 04:13 PM   #3
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Did you have to climb over your A/C ductwork to get to the bypass valve in order to change it out?
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2017 RW36RL, 3 AC's, Auto Level, Slide Toppers, W/D, D/W, Res Fridge, Convection Microwave, Sleep #, Heated Tanks, Slide N Slide, 17.5" Sailun S637, Disc Brakes, 8K Morryde IS, TrailAir Air Ride 21K Pin, B&W Hitch
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Old 11-29-2023, 02:12 AM   #4
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The ductwork in the basement is for the furnace only. A/C vents are in the ceiling.
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Old 11-30-2023, 09:28 PM   #5
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Did you have to climb over your A/C ductwork to get to the bypass valve in order to change it out?

I think I did have to temporarily disconnect some of the furnace ductwork to provide easier access. Also, I remember changing the PEX tubing fittings to use the threaded fittings that came on the new valve. I did this work 3 years ago and unfortunately, I did not take a pictures.
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Old 12-02-2023, 05:49 PM   #6
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Ha.. Mine did the same thing happen this year. I hope it's the by pass valve, easy to get to. Thanks for the part number. Make sure to also check the one way flow valves that are in the plumbing system. There are at least three: The one at the outlet of the hot water tank is the hardest to get to. if this one went bad it could let the antifreeze go in backwards from the top of the tank when in bypass mode. There's also two others that will be in the water lines. They're not hard to spot when you take down the wall and they do go bad. When they do go bad they allow the cold and hot water to merge. I've had one of them go bad.
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Old 12-02-2023, 09:12 PM   #7
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By pass valve

I have a 2013 rl and replaced mine years ago. Just a heads up once you replace it, I forgot to burb that valve during the winterizing process to insure the winterizer was in the valve. The small amount of water in 5hat valve caused it to crack and break.
To also believe when I replaced it I put it in backwards and it doesn’t work that well that way. lol

Wasn’t to hard a fix other than taking the wall down. I also found that if you use some high strength Velcro on your wall edges you can leave the screws out. it is much easier than taking the screws in and out all the time.

Best of luck on your repair.
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