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Old 04-20-2012, 04:39 PM   #41
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sounds like problem solved.



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Old 04-20-2012, 05:28 PM   #42
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Opening both gray valves when dry camping or anytime you're not connected to a sewer would not be a good idea. Waste water would flow all the way to the end of your sewer hose. I don't want to be there when you remove the cap at the dump station.

You need a way of keeping the waste water in check until you are at the dump station. That's why I suggested installing another waste valve on the 3" line just before the connection for the sewer hose.
That way you can close the newly installed valve and open both grays without worry.

thoughts?

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Old 04-20-2012, 05:36 PM   #43
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I fully agree about the extra valve. Surprise, surprise, surprise. Like trying to put a hose sprayer on with the water turn all the way up. 90 gal HMMMMM. Lots of Gray on YOU. If the valve thing works please let us know.
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Old 04-20-2012, 06:01 PM   #44
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Just an FYI, folks on the MOC (Montana Owner Club) Forum have done just that. Added another Gate Valve prior to the sewer outlet and with it closed open both Grays to equalize between them. Redwood is not alone with this 2 gray tanks, a lot of the bigger rigs are plumbed that way.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:19 PM   #45
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OK I have answers on the grey tanks for the FL we pulled the bottom board down this afternoon and from the front to the back the tanks are placed this way (fresh water, galley, black, bath grey) they are NOT stacked and putting the extra valve in the main line is an easy fix. I will post a link to some pictures on Monday or Tuesday for the procedure.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:42 PM   #46
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So you got it!! How'd it go man? Give us some details...
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:44 PM   #47
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It was awesome!!!!
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Old 04-22-2012, 06:01 AM   #48
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Found a simple valve that fits on the end of your existing sewer pipe. However if you are in a cold region it will freeze. Warm weather only.http://rvadenver.com/sewer_hoses_&_accessories1.htm
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:45 AM   #49
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That looks similar to what I used in the beginning of my adventures.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:48 PM   #50
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Hi all

I just got am email from Brian Emmons at Redwood about this problem. We do not have 2 grey tanks to use. We have 1 for lav and galley and 1 for the washer dryer. I asked about adding a hose to join the two, he said go a head, but will void your warranty. The valve at the end of the line before hose sounds like the safest idea. That's what I will do. Always keep that warranty for as long as possible

Cheers all. Bud
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:58 PM   #51
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Hmmm... 45 gals for the Washer???



I think the Washer, Shower & Lav sink are plumbed to tank #1 on monitor panel. Kitchen sink & dishwasher are plumbed to #2... at least on the RL/RE/FB.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:00 PM   #52
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No. I have the plumbing diagram. Send me your email and I will forward. Brian sent it to me
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:57 PM   #53
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The Valterra Twist On Valve looks the best and the warranty stays in place
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:29 AM   #54
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I'm a visual guy, so just to clarify, you add this outboard valveto the waste water exit and leave it closed. Then you open both grey tanks and they will fill equally giving you the 90 gallon capacity. To dump, close both grey valves, drain thetrapped grey water and then dump as usual?

This process will work on the 36RL as well?
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:36 AM   #55
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I know this will work for the FL but I do not know if it will work for the others as there tanks are stacked on top of each other.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:03 AM   #56
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If the gray water tanks are stacked on the 36RL, wouldn't this solution work just as well? When the bottom tank fills, the back-up would begin to fill the top tank?Or if the water is drained into the top tank, logic says it would move to the lowest point in the bottom tank until it's full, etc.

Any thoughts? Am I off base here?Edited by: Grandpa
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:18 AM   #57
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It should work. would be interesting to give it a try. As I was told by the factory, do not change the piping, as this will void your warranty.

I am going to try the twist on valve, if I get into that problem

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Old 04-24-2012, 12:16 PM   #58
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This issue seems to be gaininga lot of momentum. Remember that only a few of us will ever need this modification... since it's not easy to find dry camping sites in state & national park campgrounds that welcome 39ft+ RV's withopposing slides.

Also, this sounds like a less-than-straightforward retrofit - taking down the floorpans, modifying the 3" lines, stacked tanks, adding manual valves, sliding under the coach to actuate, warranty issues... ugh.



Once you fix this, it's timeto start thinking about a solar array. By the time your greys are pegged, your batteries will be depleted too. Lots of state/fed campgrounds have generator restrictions.



To the few who need this... you need it -butfor the rest of us, campgrounds with hookups are looking better & better!
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:38 PM   #59
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5th_time,

I understand what you are saying "only a few of us will ever need this modification".

But I don't like campgrounds where I am elbow to elbow with 60 kids and all the parents and their pets. I want to find a place all to myself and with the dispersed camping spots in the National and State forests that are available I think the Redwood will work great with it's 104 gallons of fresh water.

For those of you who have been looking at adding a third valve, how about using a Drain Master Valve? I think we should be able to figure out a way to do it without voiding any warranty.

Keith


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Old 04-24-2012, 03:51 PM   #60
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Kieth, Hi. I think the Drain master is a great valve, but your have to insert it where your old valves are located. The bayonet version just attaches to the exit pipe where your hose usually attaches. Then you re-connect your hose to the new valve. No nuts-bolts and serious work.
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