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Old 01-20-2016, 01:17 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by johnboytoo View Post
Egg-zactly like that with the three heat pump zones...
(and just realized it came with a front AND rear furnace - DOOH !!!)
Ya I think you have to have to on them long en's to get even heat. Probably two 25K Btu units.
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Old 01-20-2016, 05:51 AM   #22
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Thanks AA. Excellent description with visual aids.
Thank you!
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Old 01-22-2016, 06:43 PM   #23
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Just thought that I would throw this comment in. Not sure if RW offered a "heat strip" option for the A/C units or not but I had a heat strip installed on one of our A/C units since our RW didn't come with the heat pump option.

The thermostat is the same as the one pictured for the heat pump, and it continues to provide heat down to and below freezing.

I did the install to take advantage of some "free" electricity at some campsites.
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Old 01-23-2016, 05:56 AM   #24
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Guys I might add There is a system called "CHEAPHEAT" Which is a retrofit that fits your ATWOOD furnace with Heating Coils. There is a switch that you choose between GAS or ELECTRIC ( just like your water heater ) The fan and thermostat that you have used in the past controls the air flow and temperature. You would no have the choice to use either GAS or ELECTRIC. Cost over $800 and is on Amazon but I reading more that the company will only sell to dealers. There is some circuitry and high voltage required to be wired correctly that interface with your ATWOOD furnace.
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Old 01-23-2016, 05:57 PM   #25
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http://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/

cheapheat - Bing video
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Old 12-10-2016, 12:51 PM   #26
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Correct me if I'm wrong in diagnosing my issue... We have one (rear) heat pump and with the thermostat set to electric -after the furnace brings the temp up initially- the roof system kicks in. However, only cold (outside?) air comes from the vents which brings the rig temp quickly down prompting the heat pump to turn off and the furnace to kick in again due to 5+ degree difference. The problem is likely my roof reversable system where a/c works fine but heat for some reason doesn't...
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Old 12-10-2016, 02:02 PM   #27
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If the temps are below say 40 degrees the heat pump can't 'extract' heat from the too cold outside air and WILL just blow cold...
first guess ? you have a vent blowing RIGHT at the thermostat and it is reacting to the changes...
Think on electric, the 'primary' is the heat pump so it tries to use it, but then realizes it can't warm it up enough so it switches... and vice versa.

My initial guess (since it's early and it's been a couple of yrs since we left the redwood) is that your thermostat should just be set on gas when too cold...

I rarely used the auto in our 38gk even though we had two heat pumps, it just took too long to sense a need to switch IMHO..

If it was going to be below 40, I just put it on gas heat... good luck !
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Old 12-10-2016, 02:21 PM   #28
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We do not have Heat Pumps in our 2012 36RL, but from what I have read before the heat pumps only work efficiently down to around 40 or 45 degrees. Then there isn't much heat left to extract from the outside air. I believe that your thermostat setting has to do with whether or not the heat pump kicks in initially or the furnace does, I believe that if you set your thermostat only a few degrees warmer than what the temp inside your coach is currently, the heat pump will try to raise it to the desired temp. If you set it much higher (say more than 4 degrees) then what the current temp is inside, then the LP furnace will run to get the coach to the desired temp. But remember that running just the heat pumps will not heat the plumbing and underbelly of your coach like the furnace will. There is a small duct hose from the furnace that runs into the belly of your coach to help with that. Those that live full time in the cold climate can chime in to further explain this.
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Old 12-10-2016, 03:16 PM   #29
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My rear unit is the only a heat pump on my Redwood (that is what happens when you buy a end of the year model off the lot)
When the dealer had my Redwood correcting a A/C gasket leak, they removed the rear A/C unit to replace the gasket and wired the unit incorrectly when putting it back on so in the heat mode only the fan ran, the compressor never came on.
Had to take it back to the dealer and watch then work on it for a day and a half before they discovered their mistake.


But the previous posters are right, the heat pump will not make heat below 40 degrees, it will just blow cold air. (The colder the outside air gets, the less efficient a heat pump is.)


I use a couple of small countertop electric heaters and of course the fireplace to supplement the heat during the winter.
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Old 12-10-2016, 03:31 PM   #30
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If you are at freezing or below outside you need to just set thermostat to "gas" & not the hp, as stated above the return air for the furnace heats the basement & there's a 2" duct running into the underbelly, the hp does not protect those areas.
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Old 12-10-2016, 03:33 PM   #31
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I believe everyone is correct in that the heat pump will not heat for you once the temp gets to 40 or 45. The key here, when using the heat pump is to not set the thermostat to more than 2 degrees warmer than your inside temp. If you do, the gas furnace will come on. I set my temps 2 degrees warmer, let the heat pump get to my inside temp and shut down, then set the thermostat 2 more degrees warmer and so on until I get to my desired temp. Remember though, the gas furnace is the only way to get warm air in the underbelly/basement area,so if outside temps are going to be below freezing, you need to use the gas furnace. Also, when your heat pump first comes on, you will feel only cold air coming from the vents. If it is working properly, the warm air will follow.
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Old 12-10-2016, 06:13 PM   #32
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However, only cold (outside?) air comes from the vents which brings the rig temp quickly down prompting the heat pump to turn off and the furnace to kick in again due to 5+ degree difference.
Just a Note:

The roof AC/Heat Pumps are incapable of bringing in outside air. They are sealed units that only circulate air through the supply and return air ducts in the coach. Above the roof line, outside air is circulated over the condenser coil to dissipate the heat (or cold depending on mode).

When the outside temp drops, not only does the heat pump get less efficient to the point it can't heat anymore, but it actually shuts down the compressor (not the fan). Mine would start running a little rough, enough to wake me up, then shut down.
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Old 12-11-2016, 12:20 PM   #33
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Thank-you everyone for being there for me, we jumped from a pop-up to the RW and there's a lot to learn. We'll try the heat pump again with the outside temps around 60 by setting the thermostat at 2 degrees above actual inside temperature and see if we get warm air when the HP kicks in.
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