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Old 08-19-2019, 12:10 PM   #1
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Sewer values

We have a 2015 Redwood has one black tank and 2 greys seems black tank value is not closing all the way and one of the grey tank values is same way how to fix it and where are they located at?
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Old 08-19-2019, 02:18 PM   #2
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We have a 2015 Redwood has one black tank and 2 greys seems black tank value is not closing all the way and one of the grey tank values is same way how to fix it and where are they located at?
You may want top state your specific model so someone can help you.
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Old 08-19-2019, 05:36 PM   #3
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The valves will be tucked up into deep dark recesses above the coroplast covering the underbelly, which BTW can be a real pain putting back up. Depending on your model some of the valves may not accessible without removing a tank or have VERY long arms.
The are a couple reasons for not closing completely, #1 they may have plastic shavings from cutting the openings into the tanks stuck in the valve or paper & poo stuck there also or #2 have found that they use a very long cables, one size fits all, to operate them & the odd routing that they may have run those cables doesn't allow the push/pull of the valve at a straight angle.
To correct either is quite a project, but can be done if you don't mind laying on your back a lot. You will need help reattaching the coroplast.
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Old 08-19-2019, 11:45 PM   #4
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We have a 38GK
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Old 08-24-2019, 06:17 PM   #5
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We have a 2015 Redwood has one black tank and 2 greys seems black tank value is not closing all the way and one of the grey tank values is same way how to fix it and where are they located at?

I have had my 2017 38RE black valves fixed twice and it still dumps 2-3 gallons of “black” all over ground when I open cap to attach hose. Very frustrated.
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Old 08-24-2019, 06:22 PM   #6
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Many of us have the same scenario.................the cheapest and easiest workaround is to purchase a stand alone gate valve that has the bayonet screw on and leave that closed until you can get the sewer hose connected to the park sewer system, then open that last gate valve. I leave ours connected all the time.
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Old 08-24-2019, 07:53 PM   #7
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Ditto on adding another valve at the end. Ours leaks
So we added the gate valve. Cheap and easy fix.
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Old 08-25-2019, 02:53 AM   #8
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I went a step further, actually cut the Sewer Pipe where it exits the Drop Down Belly section, glued in a new Knife Valve and then glued the section I cut off to the output of the new valve. That way I'm not worried about a twist on valve coming off going down the road.
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:32 PM   #9
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One thing that we do that seems to help is to pour I container of mineral oil ($1.99 at Wal Mart) and 1/4 cup of dawn down the toilet BEFORE we travel. Once we arrive at our next destination I dump and flush the black tank. The mineral oil keeps the black tank valve lubricated and sealing properly. The dawn breaks down the nastiness and together they keep stuff from sticking inside the black tank. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-27-2019, 12:35 AM   #10
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you may want to consider putting a valve at the exit where you attach your hose. I did and it works well should any tank leak. Its very accessible. You will need to do some ABS plumbing but in the end it will resolve your concerns.
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:23 PM   #11
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you may want to consider putting a valve at the exit where you attach your hose. I did and it works well should any tank leak. Its very accessible. You will need to do some ABS plumbing but in the end it will resolve your concerns.
Valterra sells a valve that mates right up to the cap fitting , No cutting and glue and cleaner . I have one on the dump of my unit, even left the cap tether in the factory location fits fine on the end of the added valve. I also added a 3" clear extension so I can see with the tank is empty and flushed clear.

https://www.valterra.com/product/twi...e-valve-boxed/

https://www.valterra.com/product/cle...th-3-bay-lugs/
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Old 08-30-2019, 12:31 AM   #12
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Valterra sells a valve that mates right up to the cap fitting , No cutting and glue and cleaner . I have one on the dump of my unit, even left the cap tether in the factory location fits fine on the end of the added valve. I also added a 3" clear extension so I can see with the tank is empty and flushed clear.

https://www.valterra.com/product/twi...e-valve-boxed/

https://www.valterra.com/product/cle...th-3-bay-lugs/

I have been using both of those parts for the the past 4 years. The gate valve bayonet fitting locks on tight. I check it before each trip and it has never shown any sign of coming loose.
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Old 09-01-2019, 01:41 AM   #13
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Many of us have the same scenario.................the cheapest and easiest workaround is to purchase a stand alone gate valve that has the bayonet screw on and leave that closed until you can get the sewer hose connected to the park sewer system, then open that last gate valve. I leave ours connected all the time.
We cut the 4" discharge pipe just before the 90deg turn to the cap and glued a gate valve there perminately that way we never get liquid dumping on us when opening the cap.
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Old 09-02-2019, 03:00 PM   #14
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Luckily, my leak was grey water, but it would drip in oceanside campgrounds (no hookups). I couldn’t take the leaking (and the staring) anymore so I replaced all the valves & cables.
When I examined the old valves, one had a piece of tank shaving jammed in the blade channel - as many here have reported. Ugh...
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