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Old 11-04-2014, 03:04 AM   #1
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Do you check lug nut torque with tires on the ground?

Wanting to know how folks are checking their lug nut torque, seems if tire is on the ground with trailer weight applied you're actually torquing the nut to the rim without knowing if rim is fully seated against spindle/drum.
Thoughts?
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Old 11-04-2014, 03:44 AM   #2
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Not only that........aluminum wheels are "spongy". That's why you have to check the torque a few times (after driving) to get the torque right.
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Old 11-04-2014, 03:49 AM   #3
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By the time weight is applied to tire and wheel, you better already know that the rim is seated. The initial snug up is done while the wheel is in the air, then torque when the weight is on it.
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Old 11-04-2014, 01:21 PM   #4
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What Atom said.

And no truer is the saying, "You get what you pay for." when applied to the purchase of a torque wrench. Stay away from Harbor Freight and whatever, other tool wholesalers that are scattered across the country.
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Old 11-04-2014, 01:55 PM   #5
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I know that I have a hard time getting the torque up to 110 lb-ft that is the spec. When I purchased my Redwood, I went out and purchased a nice Craftsman "digital" torque wrench but soon realized I needed a piece of 1 1/2 inch pipe 3 feet long to provide the additional leverage need to achieve the required torque. Have any of you found an adjustable torque impact tool (battery operated)? I have looked many times in the tool stores and not found any. That would make the job of doing 32 lug studs to the correct torque a lot easier. I have to take a break after each wheel.
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Old 11-04-2014, 02:05 PM   #6
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A torque wrench is calibrated according to the specifications of that specific tool (weight and dimensions). As soon as you change any of those specifications, say you add an additional piece of pipe (a torque multiplier), you change the actual setting and the torque setting you now think is correct is actually incorrect. I'd recommend looking at a professional tool dealer for a length that suits your physical capabilities. Pricey...absolutely. However, if you'd like to see carnage resulting from incorrectly torqueing a nut, bolt or stud, I'd be happy to oblige.
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Old 11-04-2014, 02:18 PM   #7
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Guy, I agree, if you are having to use a cheater on it then something is wrong with your wrench, you should not have a problem being able to torque to 110-140.
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Old 11-04-2014, 02:42 PM   #8
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Now I have a real question..............isn't the torque point set by adjusting a breakover mechanism in the head of the tool? That breakover point should not be affected by the length of the lever only the ease by which the operator can achieve that breakover point. For example, at 100 lb-ft setting, you have to apply 50 lbs of force to a 2 feet long lever or 25 lbs to a 4 feet long lever or 20 lbs of force to a 5 feet long lever.

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Old 11-04-2014, 03:02 PM   #9
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Best deal we got was paying the local Kal Tire $90 to balance and install the G614's I bought online. Their service provides free lifetime pressure checks and torque checks. They also have an affiliate in the U.S. (Les Schwab) that we can use.

Installing and balancing probably cost less than a quality torque wrench.

I stop at our local shop at the beginning of each trip and then locate a shop every couple of thousand miles. When the dealer has the tires off, I also stop on the way home to get the torque checked after about 30 miles.

If we have to change a tire on the road, I'll happily call Road Assist, put the kettle on and enjoy a cup of tea while waiting for them to arrive. We're in no rush.

One less heavy tool to carry in our limited storage space.
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Old 11-04-2014, 03:04 PM   #10
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Wow! I'm not sure if y'all are overthinking this or if I'm underthinking this. I've been using a Harbor Freight torque wrench for years now and I have never had a problem. I always check torque before pulling anywhere, and trust me, it needs to be checked often. On a prior fifth wheel, when I had to change brakes, I torqued using a cheater bar and nowyou have me questioning that.
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