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Old 03-22-2016, 02:26 AM   #1
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Smile 36RL Kitchen/Dining Slides

The two kitchen/dining slides started to give us problems today. The slides will operate for about three seconds then stop (in either direction). Releasing the slide switch for 15 seconds allows another three second operation. The pump is warm but not hot to the touch however there is an unusual odor in the battery/pump compartment.

Per posted circuit breaker wiring diagram the pump motor and front LED hitch lights are on the same breaker. Those two lights remain illuminated when the pump stops. The pump terminal voltage is at 13 plus volts.

Is there a thermal overload within the motor? Also, is the pump motor replaceable or does the entire slide/leveler pump assembly have to be replaced? Although the unit is about four years old the slides/leveler have been operated about 40 times. This on our 2013 RL.

Is there a contact phone number at Lippert's slide/leveler group?
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Bob and Carol - Lees Summit, MO,
2016 Silverado 3500 HD, High Country DRW diesel, 3.73 gear ratio, long bed, 25K Reese Elite removable hitch with 2013 Redwood 36RL with 17.5" H-rated tires and MOR/ryde heavy duty shackle links and bushings; 6.5 KW gen
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Old 03-22-2016, 02:36 AM   #2
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You should have an "Auto Reset Circuit Breaker" in the large cable between the battery.batteries and the hydraulic pump. On our RL RW had installed the wrong breaker and we experienced the same problem. The breakers are mounted between the buss bars located either on the rear wall or on the right side of the battery compartment.
But you may want to double check all the connections on the pump, buss bar, and battery to ensure everything is tight. The smell could be a poor connection causing resistance in the circuit and heating up.
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2018 Chevy 3500HD Crew Cab High Country DRW, D/A, 2016 RW39MB, Dual ACs, Auto Level, Auto Sat Dish, Stack W/D, King Sleep #, 17.5" GY114s w/Disc, MORryde IS & Pin, Comfort Ride Hitch, 5.5 Onan, Res Fridge & Induction Cook Top
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:52 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
You should have an "Auto Reset Circuit Breaker" in the large cable between the battery.batteries and the hydraulic pump. On our RL RW had installed the wrong breaker and we experienced the same problem. The breakers are mounted between the buss bars located either on the rear wall or on the right side of the battery compartment.
But you may want to double check all the connections on the pump, buss bar, and battery to ensure everything is tight. The smell could be a poor connection causing resistance in the circuit and heating up.
Thank you for your most helpful suggestions. The two one year rated batteries were essentially dead and one of the 6 AWG pump motor leads was overheated. Replacing the two batteries and replacing the overheated pump motor lead did get the slides to work however the pump is operating at a high temperature. Looks like the pump assembly will need to be replaced. All the repairs and labor are north of $2,300. Hopefully the repairs will last another four years.
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Bob and Carol - Lees Summit, MO,
2016 Silverado 3500 HD, High Country DRW diesel, 3.73 gear ratio, long bed, 25K Reese Elite removable hitch with 2013 Redwood 36RL with 17.5" H-rated tires and MOR/ryde heavy duty shackle links and bushings; 6.5 KW gen
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Old 03-24-2016, 12:18 AM   #4
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Does anyone have the part number for the Lippert slide/leveling pump assembly for a 2013 36 RL? The labels on the assembly do clearly indicate a part number.
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2016 Silverado 3500 HD, High Country DRW diesel, 3.73 gear ratio, long bed, 25K Reese Elite removable hitch with 2013 Redwood 36RL with 17.5" H-rated tires and MOR/ryde heavy duty shackle links and bushings; 6.5 KW gen
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Old 03-24-2016, 12:50 AM   #5
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Not sure of the part numbers. Look here:

Hydraulic Pumps and Power Units for RV Leveling Systems

Chris
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Old 03-24-2016, 12:56 AM   #6
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Not sure of the part numbers. Look here:

Hydraulic Pumps and Power Units for RV Leveling Systems

Chris
Thank you for the link. I could not find the pump assembly. Contacting Tierra for assistance.
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2016 Silverado 3500 HD, High Country DRW diesel, 3.73 gear ratio, long bed, 25K Reese Elite removable hitch with 2013 Redwood 36RL with 17.5" H-rated tires and MOR/ryde heavy duty shackle links and bushings; 6.5 KW gen
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Old 03-24-2016, 04:37 AM   #7
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First verify all your connections are clean and solid. Even the negative connections. Also that the pump is grounded properly. Do you have a good amprobe or volt - amp tester or what a lot of people call a "clamp tester". something like this
https://www.zoro.com/extech-clamp-me...g&gclsrc=aw.ds
If you don't have one see if you can borrow one. Set it to amperage and clamp it over the positive lead going to the battery from the pump. Have some one push the switch for the motor and take a reading on the amperage. First surge and continuous. You will see the exact amps the pump is drawing. With this info you will know if the pump is being overworked. As on the pump it should be marked what it should draw in amperage with the batteries at full charge. As if the batteries are under say 10 volts it will need more amps to make up the difference. Also with this you can see if the breaker or thermal overload is too small. Do not change the protection unless you are told it is the wrong one. As if you put too high a rating compared to the wiring you could cause a short or fire.
Also with this info the tech at Lippert will be able to give you proper info as to what to do.
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Old 03-24-2016, 05:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ted 95 View Post
First verify all your connections are clean and solid. Even the negative connections. Also that the pump is grounded properly. Do you have a good amprobe or volt - amp tester or what a lot of people call a "clamp tester". something like this
https://www.zoro.com/extech-clamp-me...g&gclsrc=aw.ds
If you don't have one see if you can borrow one. Set it to amperage and clamp it over the positive lead going to the battery from the pump. Have some one push the switch for the motor and take a reading on the amperage. First surge and continuous. You will see the exact amps the pump is drawing. With this info you will know if the pump is being overworked. As on the pump it should be marked what it should draw in amperage with the batteries at full charge. As if the batteries are under say 10 volts it will need more amps to make up the difference. Also with this you can see if the breaker or thermal overload is too small. Do not change the protection unless you are told it is the wrong one. As if you put too high a rating compared to the wiring you could cause a short or fire.
Also with this info the tech at Lippert will be able to give you proper info as to what to do.
Great suggestions. My clamp on ammeter was reading about 15 amperes with 12.5 VDC at the motor terminals. The ground tested good between the frame ground and the motor housing.The motor does not have a nameplate however the breaker is rated for 15 amps and did not trip. The motor or pump appear to be loading up. The two slides move freely and can be moved by hand. Per the tech working with Lippert the DC motor armature, rotor or brushes most likely are defective. Initially the voltage was below 10 VDC due to failing batteries. Those are replaced. A through hex nut tightening event was held as many electrical connections at the motor and directional controller were loose requiring one 6 AWG burned cable at the motor to be replaced. Now waiting on the pump assembly parts.
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2016 Silverado 3500 HD, High Country DRW diesel, 3.73 gear ratio, long bed, 25K Reese Elite removable hitch with 2013 Redwood 36RL with 17.5" H-rated tires and MOR/ryde heavy duty shackle links and bushings; 6.5 KW gen
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Old 03-24-2016, 05:48 AM   #9
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If you speak to Lippert again ask what should be the average wattage draw. It is possible the loose connections is what caused the brushes to go and the high reading. I assume you are getting brushes and an armature or a whole new motor? I find it very close to have a 15a breaker with a 15a draw. I'm not sure what the safety leeway is for DC but usually you only load an AC breaker to 80% so a 15a breaker in your house will have a max load of 12a.
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Old 03-24-2016, 04:51 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by ted 95 View Post
If you speak to Lippert again ask what should be the average wattage draw. It is possible the loose connections is what caused the brushes to go and the high reading. I assume you are getting brushes and an armature or a whole new motor? I find it very close to have a 15a breaker with a 15a draw. I'm not sure what the safety leeway is for DC but usually you only load an AC breaker to 80% so a 15a breaker in your house will have a max load of 12a.
Lippert agrees that the amperage/voltage is within range and that the brushes or commutator most likely failed. They no longer make this model and are struggling to identify the correct replacement due to the change from a Thor Redwood and Crossroads Redwood.
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2016 Silverado 3500 HD, High Country DRW diesel, 3.73 gear ratio, long bed, 25K Reese Elite removable hitch with 2013 Redwood 36RL with 17.5" H-rated tires and MOR/ryde heavy duty shackle links and bushings; 6.5 KW gen
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