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Old 11-28-2014, 03:55 PM   #21
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yes, they can be bought a number of places...

these dirt devils are in just about every rv that has a vacuum so they are available in a lot of places...
especially online
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...rv+vacuum+bags
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Old 11-28-2014, 05:13 PM   #22
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There is a huge difference between a Waste Water Treatment Plant and an RV holding tank. The treatment plant isn't seeing anything until its traveled a few miles.


If you use standard paper you run a big risk of it clogging at the valved outlet, and it is NOT fun to fix. Some of the standard papers are coated in lotion, and that stuff holds together forever.
Not really TP breakdown really quickly. fill up a quart jar put four sheets of any TP in and shake let settle the paper will practical disappear. I just change out my black water valve and no sign of TP any where. I use Northern Quilted 4 ply.
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Old 11-28-2014, 05:24 PM   #23
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^Right. TP breaks down pretty quickly. Where one might get in trouble is with baby wipes, or paper towels. For years I have used the same TP in my RV as I use at home. No problems. One key to keeping the problems down is to make sure the black tank gets full before emptying. That way the head pressure pushes everything out with some good force. Every time I empty the black tank, I fill a 5 gallon bucket of clear water, and pour it down the commode, while the black valve is still open, just to wash any left overs out. I then close the valve, and put about 5-8 gallons back into the empty tank, to have liquid in the bottom of the tank before using. I never have smells, and hardly ever use any kind of "blue" scented stuff in the tank.
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Old 11-28-2014, 05:30 PM   #24
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While all the above is true, some TP breaks down and dissolves much quicker than others. We did the shake test a couple of years ago, comparing a general brand vs RV brand and the general household brand dissolved faster and much better than the expensive RV brand.
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Old 11-28-2014, 07:05 PM   #25
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I also use a separate hose when flushing the black tank, mainly because of the "eeeeeewwwwww" factor, but in all honesty, the black tank flush has a check valve(kind of like a backflow preventer in the plumbing world) that keeps the "stuff" from coming back through the water hose. All you are supposed to get draining back is clean water on the hookup side of the flush check valve.
Don't fool yourself - It has a different purpose than preventing bacteria from migrating back up into the supply side of the vacuum breaker. Nothing like a RPBA used in the "plumbing world" to protect domestic water from contamination. It simply prevents the tank from starting a siphon out through the flush when the tank is above the level of the flush nozzle.


It's actually not a check valve the normal sense, it has a ball check in the top that slams shut when pressurized with water, and opens to let air back in when the pressure is removed to allow water to drain down both sides to prevent siphoning. As you travel with black water, that line on the downstream side gets contaminated all the way up to the air vent. There is no direct check that prevents it from migrating into the pressure side each time you pressurize and de-pressurize.


PS - if you experience some odor in the bathroom on a 36RL when running the overhead fan - there it is.







As far as the TP debate - to each their own I suppose - but there is no worse feeling than standing there in your swim trunks holding that black handle and the flow stops - knowing you still have a full tank. Been there, done that, and there are not a lot options that are going to keep the neighbors happy with you. Almost all involve removing the hose to un-clog the valve. Since then - only single ply in our tank - ever.


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Old 11-28-2014, 08:09 PM   #26
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So that picture of the grey water drain, shown above, is tied to the black tank? Or, are those two items separate? It's hard to tell from the picture. The one on the right is a normal vent for your grey water from the sink.
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:24 PM   #27
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The capped thing on the right is an autovent. It is spring loaded and allows air into the grey tank. The thing with the 2 blue water lines has noting to do with that autovent. That is an atmospheric vacuum breaker for the black tank flush. It has to be mounted higher than the flood level of other drains in the coach. Would appear to be higher than the top of the toilet if it is that close to the lav countertop. On my 2012 36rl it is mounted behind the shower faucet in the wall. Accessible by removing a few screws that hold the coat rack inside the cabinet downstairs, Hole is there I checked mine.
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Old 11-28-2014, 09:28 PM   #28
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I couldn't do the odor while running the fan in the bathroom, so I installed some quarter turn valves on both sides of the vacuum break and close them when I'm not flushing the tank.

I valved both sides, because I was concerned that if I forgot to open one installed on the tank side I would be dead-heading that cheap vacuum break under the sink with supply under pressure and I didn't want it to bust inside my coach. Now it would only deadhead the closed valve and I would notice I forgot to open them by the lack of tank flush occurring.


Chris, you're lucky with where yours is located - you probably don't get the odor like ours does. That fan can really pull some cfm, and I like to leave it running all night with the window open next to the bed.



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Old 11-28-2014, 09:35 PM   #29
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^Nice setup. Mine doesn't smell with the fan running, but if it starts, I know how to fix now.
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Old 11-28-2014, 11:05 PM   #30
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Brad ~ where did you get the 1/4 turn valves you used ?
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Old 11-28-2014, 11:29 PM   #31
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One of the best way to keep your tank flushing, is to use enough water when you flush the head.


In non-rv heads, you have water in the bowl before using. When flushing, about 1/2 to 1 gallon flushes the waste.


If your head leaks, the water will drain out. Unless you add water before use and add half a head of water when you flush, you will have problems with build up in the pipe before the tank. Use a more water and dump more often.


Get an external valtera valve and a clear plastic section with a hose connection, for use outside when dumping. If flow stops prematurely, you can close the valve and apply water pressure up the drain pipe. This back wash will loosen the dam.


Turn off the external water and open the external valve. You will see brown water draining.


Use you black tank drain until you can see clear water coming out through the clear plastic drain section.
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Old 11-29-2014, 12:50 AM   #32
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Start up supplies needed.

Well once again you folks have been a wealth of information, I thank you all again, I'm sure I will have a multitude of questions to ask as we get into this adventure. Once again hope everyone
had a great Thanksgiving. I sure hope I don't have that smelly thingy you guys are talking about, maybe Redwood has learned something from ya'll if the monitor this forum.
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Old 11-29-2014, 12:24 PM   #33
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We are full tiders and use the more expansive Rv Toilet Paper. Before we move to the next camp ground, the last thing we do is to fill all the ice from the freezer in to the toilet together with a double dose of chemicals and 5 gallons of water.

Our thinking is that it will help keeping the iside clean.

Never had a problem with our black tank, knock on wood...
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Old 11-29-2014, 04:17 PM   #34
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There is a lot of ways to fight tank crud, and I use all of them. The best PREVENTION is ...............Use lots of water....Dump often
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Old 11-29-2014, 05:18 PM   #35
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Still a firm believer of the GEO Method, it works!!!

Powdered water softener is a challenge to find in brick & mortar stores, I get it on Amazon
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Old 11-29-2014, 05:49 PM   #36
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Vaughan,

I ordered these from Amazon. They didn't come in like the picture. I noticed it is hit and miss because even Redwood has both the chrome handle or brass lever type on different units. I grumbled but they worked.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also got one of these and just keep it on board in my "duct tape and bailing wire kit" :

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 11-29-2014, 05:57 PM   #37
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Get an external valtera valve and a clear plastic section with a hose connection, for use outside when dumping. If flow stops prematurely, you can close the valve and apply water pressure up the drain pipe. This back wash will loosen the dam.
That's a good idea. I have the clear and valve now, but never thought to get the clear with the hose connection. May have to upgrade.
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Old 11-29-2014, 06:00 PM   #38
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Before we move to the next camp ground, the last thing we do is to fill all the ice from the freezer in to the toilet together with a double dose of chemicals and 5 gallons of water.
.
Not saying this is a scientific test nor am I saying it helps one way or the other, but hats off to this guy for his effort!

http://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tips/do-i...k-really-work/
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Old 11-29-2014, 06:27 PM   #39
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Brad, how do have time to find this stuff��
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Old 11-29-2014, 06:48 PM   #40
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Brad, how do have time to find this stuff��
Man, that dude is all over this stuff
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