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Old 11-07-2017, 07:21 PM   #1
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Slide Out Roof

How much weight can the slide out roof support?

I need to replace the D-shaped seals. The upper D-seal is located under the slide topper. I might be able to work on the seal by laying on the slide roof and under the topper.
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Old 11-07-2017, 11:58 PM   #2
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How much weight can the slide out roof support?

I need to replace the D-shaped seals. The upper D-seal is located under the slide topper. I might be able to work on the seal by laying on the slide roof and under the topper.

I would strongly urge you to just take the slide topper off. It is not that difficult. I had to take the topper off my dining side slide this summer to do some repair. I did it by myself. It would be easier with two people.

On the right end of topper take-up roller, there is a hole which you can place a 3 inch cotter pin through to lock the take-up spring mechanism. Once that is done, remove the small screw/s from the bead on the topper where it attaches to slot in the rail on the sidewall of the coach. Remove the left end plate and, with two people, you can slowly slide the entire assembly off the coach.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Old 11-08-2017, 12:38 AM   #3
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I would strongly urge you to just take the slide topper off. It is not that difficult. I had to take the topper off my dining side slide this summer to do some repair. I did it by myself. It would be easier with two people.

On the right end of topper take-up roller, there is a hole which you can place a 3 inch cotter pin through to lock the take-up spring mechanism. Once that is done, remove the small screw/s from the bead on the topper where it attaches to slot in the rail on the sidewall of the coach. Remove the left end plate and, with two people, you can slowly slide the entire assembly off the coach.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
Thank you for our guidance. I was hoping to find a work around so as not to remove the entire assembly.

Do you think it would be workable, that instead of removing the assembly to just lay the assembly onto the roof of the RV?

I might need to secure the assembly with rope as there might not be enough topper material to allow laying the assembly completely on the roof. That would save having to slide the topper out of the rail. Just wondering if that could work.

The topper, that is involved with the failing D-seals is on the very long street side slide. The shorter curb side topper would be much easier to deal with for Carol and I.

I dread the thought of taking our Redwood back to our RW dealer. Their techs mean well however they are not aces.
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Old 11-08-2017, 04:43 AM   #4
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I'm pretty sure he was suggesting removing only the fabric not the entire assembly.
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Old 11-08-2017, 04:48 PM   #5
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Thank you for our guidance. I was hoping to find a work around so as not to remove the entire assembly.

Do you think it would be workable, that instead of removing the assembly to just lay the assembly onto the roof of the RV?

I might need to secure the assembly with rope as there might not be enough topper material to allow laying the assembly completely on the roof. That would save having to slide the topper out of the rail. Just wondering if that could work.

The topper, that is involved with the failing D-seals is on the very long street side slide. The shorter curb side topper would be much easier to deal with for Carol and I.

I dread the thought of taking our Redwood back to our RW dealer. Their techs mean well however they are not aces.

Sorry...........I wasn't clear about. There was enough fabric on the roller so that you could lay the roller assembly up on the roof. If you are concerned about that, you could put the slide in part way before doing what I suggested. Then remove the roller assembly, put it up on the roof of the coach, then put the slide back out to do your seal repair.
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Old 11-09-2017, 01:41 AM   #6
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Remember the roller is under tension when you try to releases it unless you use the cotter pin or another tool would be a vise grip oil filter wrench. If you decide to take the topper fabric off there is a very good video on you tube that shows you how to do it using a drill to make the channel big enough to slide the material out. It is very easy to take the material off by yourself my wife helped me to reinstall it after the repair of the thread letting go next to the channel that is on the wall of the 5th wheel. once you make the modification it is ready for the life of the slide out topper to replace or repair the fabric or simply remove to repair the top of the slide. Messing with taking the whole thing off the slide side of the slide might become more of a chore than you want to deal with as they have a tendency to fall apart when trying to remove them....... I am with Guy on this one.
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:20 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by hoosierguy View Post
Sorry...........I wasn't clear about. There was enough fabric on the roller so that you could lay the roller assembly up on the roof. If you are concerned about that, you could put the slide in part way before doing what I suggested. Then remove the roller assembly, put it up on the roof of the coach, then put the slide back out to do your seal repair.
That should be doable. Thank you.
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:25 AM   #8
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Remember the roller is under tension when you try to releases it unless you use the cotter pin or another tool would be a vise grip oil filter wrench. If you decide to take the topper fabric off there is a very good video on you tube that shows you how to do it using a drill to make the channel big enough to slide the material out. It is very easy to take the material off by yourself my wife helped me to reinstall it after the repair of the thread letting go next to the channel that is on the wall of the 5th wheel. once you make the modification it is ready for the life of the slide out topper to replace or repair the fabric or simply remove to repair the top of the slide. Messing with taking the whole thing off the slide side of the slide might become more of a chore than you want to deal with as they have a tendency to fall apart when trying to remove them....... I am with Guy on this one.
I will stop by the hardware store and pick up the recommended cotter pins. Would not want to have that spring give we whooping!! Thanks for the heads up. Now off to order the D-seal material.
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Old 11-09-2017, 04:04 AM   #9
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I drilled the channel & used the vice grip filter wrench mostly because I had the wrench & a drill handy + a SIL that wasn't doing anything & it was not difficult job. I'd recommend giving the tube an extra twist or 2 to tighten up the fabric while your at it, made a big difference in wind noise & rain puddling.
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Old 11-09-2017, 04:20 PM   #10
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I drilled the channel & used the vice grip filter wrench mostly because I had the wrench & a drill handy + a SIL that wasn't doing anything & it was not difficult job. I'd recommend giving the tube an extra twist or 2 to tighten up the fabric while your at it, made a big difference in wind noise & rain puddling.
Thanks for those tips. The oil filter vice grip is a tool I don't have so will pick that up at Harbor Freight. I do have a couple of different strap wrenches however the vice grip oil filter tool should be a better grip while adding a little tension to the material.

Having winterized and returned our RW to covered storage yesterday I will gather tools, cotter pin and the D-seal material for a warm spring day at the lake.

I am going to research the materials (D-seal and sealants) so as to get a high quality seal (resistance to UV) and a sealant that does not degrade the D-seal material. Where the sealant is contacting the seals is where the seal has "rotted". Those areas not in contact with the sealant are like new.

Thanks to everyone for sharing your insights. Was really a lot of welcomed help.
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Old 11-09-2017, 05:25 PM   #11
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After struggling with several seals that would not stick to the rubber, a small town Redwood Dealer gave me a tube of Geocel MHRV 2300 CLEAR and that did the trick. The MHRV stands for motorhome and recreational vehicle.
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Old 11-09-2017, 08:00 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by RCAircraft View Post
Thanks for those tips. The oil filter vice grip is a tool I don't have so will pick that up at Harbor Freight. I do have a couple of different strap wrenches however the vice grip oil filter tool should be a better grip while adding a little tension to the material.

Having winterized and returned our RW to covered storage yesterday I will gather tools, cotter pin and the D-seal material for a warm spring day at the lake.

I am going to research the materials (D-seal and sealants) so as to get a high quality seal (resistance to UV) and a sealant that does not degrade the D-seal material. Where the sealant is contacting the seals is where the seal has "rotted". Those areas not in contact with the sealant are like new.

Thanks to everyone for sharing your insights. Was really a lot of welcomed help.
Best source I found for the D seal is Dyers Rv Online:
AP Products 1" x 15/16" x 50' Premium EK D Slide-Out Seal 84393 $115.99

They also have the track if needed.
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Old 11-10-2017, 01:26 AM   #13
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Brad, that Geocel MHRV 2300 CLEAR is exactly what Randy and the Service Techs are using when running around at the Rally fixing things. It's not cheap, runs around $12 to $15 bucks for a standard Tube.
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Old 11-10-2017, 03:16 PM   #14
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Best source I found for the D seal is Dyers Rv Online:
AP Products 1" x 15/16" x 50' Premium EK D Slide-Out Seal 84393 $115.99

They also have the track if needed.
Thanks for the seal supplier data.
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Old 11-10-2017, 03:18 PM   #15
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Brad, that Geocel MHRV 2300 CLEAR is exactly what Randy and the Service Techs are using when running around at the Rally fixing things. It's not cheap, runs around $12 to $15 bucks for a standard Tube.
Wow, I may have paid that, I don't remember. I do remember it has a shelf life of 1 year, so you don't really want to stock up on it.
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Old 11-10-2017, 03:33 PM   #16
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Brad, that Geocel MHRV 2300 CLEAR is exactly what Randy and the Service Techs are using when running around at the Rally fixing things. It's not cheap, runs around $12 to $15 bucks for a standard Tube.
I noticed on Amazon Prime the MHRV 2300 CLEAR was in the $17-18 range for a 10-oz tube. Prime is not always the lowest cost however their return policy is quick, easy and no fussing around.

Thanks to all for your help with my seal questions.
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Old 11-11-2017, 05:11 AM   #17
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Geocell RV Proflex I believe, is the same thing. I use it on my TC. I usually find it for about $12.

Mark
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Old 11-11-2017, 07:30 AM   #18
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Geocell RV Proflex I believe, is the same thing. I use it on my TC. I usually find it for about $12.

Mark
I've used both on the seals, and found nothing similar about them. The proflex was the most miserable stuff to apply and the worse thing in the world to remove and I will never use that stuff again.
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Old 11-11-2017, 02:47 PM   #19
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I've used both on the seals, and found nothing similar about them. The proflex was the most miserable stuff to apply and the worse thing in the world to remove and I will never use that stuff again.
I've never used the 2300, however l like the Proflex better than anything else. I don't use it on the roof though.

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Old 11-11-2017, 03:46 PM   #20
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I've never used the 2300, however l like the Proflex better than anything else. I don't use it on the roof though.

Mark
Interesting that we have had such different experiences.

I tried Proflex on the Redwood seals, and I also used it a few times to reseal our Montana and both times I cussed it and swore off it. To me anyway it was very unforgiving installing because you got one swipe with a finger to smooth it. If you tried a 2nd swipe it would make a mess. When trying to remove it to reseal later, it turned to a rubbery crystallized mess that wouldn't come off.

Within days after using the proflex and struggling to take it off of the 2 ft section I tried it on, I came back with the 2300 and the job was done including doing the full set of seals.

It is interesting that Geocel lists several products as OEM for RVs for including the 2300, but Proflex is only listed under aftermarket. I don't know why or what the blend differences are.
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