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Old 05-15-2012, 01:29 PM   #1
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I have a four door Dominic Refrigerator in my 2012 Redwood. I am concerned as the doors do not seem to seal tightly. The refrigerator holds a temperature, but when I open a door, there is no resistance as if I am breaing the seal, and when I shut the freezer, I have never had a vacuum created that would make the door diffi to open for a few seconds. The dealer actually sent me a set of new seals, but that did not seem to help. Is this normal on this type of refrigerator?
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Old 05-15-2012, 04:15 PM   #2
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Gary, The test is to insert a Dollar Bill between the door seal and close the door. If the bill pulls out easily there's a problem, if you feel resistance while pulling on the bill you're good. I would try this at numerous places on both the fridge doors and the freezer doors. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-15-2012, 04:50 PM   #3
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Do you notice any condensation around the doors at all? If you do not have any condensation you are fine.
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:02 AM   #4
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I will give it a try. Thanks.
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:03 AM   #5
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I have not noticed any condensation, but the fan seems to be running often, and I did notice that the freezer is strating to build up some ice sooner than I expected.
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Old 05-16-2012, 12:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfshaffer
I have not noticed any condensation, but the fan seems to be running often, and I did notice that the freezer is strating to build up some ice sooner than I expected.
the fan will run a lot even more so when it gets hot outside and the building of ice in the freezer is attributed to the humidity level and how many times the door is opened either way these issues are not to be worried about they are normal.
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:32 PM   #7
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While boon-docking does the Refrig. use much propane?
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:22 PM   #8
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When switching from 120V shore power to the 12V truck power will the refrigerator automatically make the switch?
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:37 PM   #9
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When switching from 120V shore power to the 12V truck power will the refrigerator automatically make the switch?
The reason I ask is my last trip I traveled the 3 hours with the propane on, however some people say it is dangerous and I should be able to run the refrig on 12 Volts. Camping World shows my unit pulling 5.5 amps on 12V.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:38 PM   #10
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I think the Norcold will switch over to LP when you disconnect AC if you have controls set to AU. I don't think there is a DC mode. Only AC and LP.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:43 PM   #11
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I think the Norcold will switch over to LP when you disconnect AC if you have controls set to AU. I don't think there is a DC mode. Only AC and LP.
So the only way to keep everything cold without a generator while traveling is with propane?
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:00 PM   #12
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I think they're designed for that though. My doesn't seem to use much propane either traveling or boon docking. Everything stays cold when we're on the road. The only problems I've had boon docking is that it shuts down when battery voltage gets low even when you're on propane. You'll get "dc low" flashing.
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:09 PM   #13
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I think they're designed for that though. My doesn't seem to use much propane either traveling or boon docking. Everything stays cold when we're on the road. The only problems I've had boon docking is that it shuts down when battery voltage gets low even when you're on propane. You'll get "dc low" flashing.
I have been traveling with propane too, just don't sound very safe pulling in a service station or pulling on the side of a gas tanker truck. lol
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Old 05-18-2013, 08:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I think they're designed for that though. My doesn't seem to use much propane either traveling or boon docking. Everything stays cold when we're on the road. The only problems I've had boon docking is that it shuts down when battery voltage gets low even when you're on propane. You'll get "dc low" flashing.
I have been traveling with propane too, just don't sound very safe pulling in a service station or pulling on the side of a gas tanker truck. lol

Walking across a street, one can get hit by an automobile. I'd consider that unsafe, also.

If a propane line has a leak it will create an issue even if you're in a park. Motorhomes have been traveling with propane (on) virtually, forever.

One needs to keep the beer cold while traveling for days or weeks. I'm keeping my propane on, LOL.

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Old 05-18-2013, 09:12 PM   #15
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Yes, I quit drinking 12 years ago, buy did buy a bunch of frozen food from Sam's Club I have to keep until I get there. Eight days of fishing at Toledo Bend. White Perch time.
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:16 PM   #16
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Buddy - If you aren't comfortable using propane on the road you may want to consider a solar system and inverter to run the fridge while off shore power.
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:29 PM   #17
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I'm okay with it, I just thought it may run on 12V as well. My truck actually has a 125V inverter for laptops, ect. But doesn't handle that many amps.
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Old 05-18-2013, 10:41 PM   #18
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They suggest that you shut off the refrigerator before you pull in to refuel. This is because any fumes could be ignited by the flame of the burner. Most people don,t , and it doesn't happen very often but there have been a few instances of it starting a fire
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:47 PM   #19
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I installed a "T" in the propane line to finish installing my genny and forgot to recheck the refrigerator. It failed on Lo flo because it had air in the line and I tell you what, with that black finish on this thing it only took less than 12 hours and the temp gauge in the fridge was 58 degrees and freezer was thawed out. I won't hesitate to run the propone down the road.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:37 AM   #20
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In the late 90s, I had a Dometic that could run LP/AC/12v. When I ordered the Redwood, I just assumed that RV fridges had evolved to that. You know what they say about assuming...
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