TrailAir Tri-Glide Pin Box Maintenance

0nTheRoad · 03-20-2014, 02:31 AM

I have been looking for information on maintaining the Tri-Glide, specifically what needs to be done and how often.

I know many of you have the Tri-Glide, what are you doing to keep these operating correctly?

**Dave&Ginny** · 03-20-2014, 04:21 AM

Not much maintenance, just grease it in all the zerks

0nTheRoad · 03-20-2014, 11:56 AM

Dave, how much grease...1 pump, 2 pumps???

**Dave&Ginny** · 03-20-2014, 01:55 PM

I think I usually put in a couple of pumps per zerk. Don't forget to look up inside from the back, because there are 3 up there too.

travelin' texans · 03-20-2014, 04:41 PM

My DW wife made a cover for the tri-glide to help with UV deterioration on rubber bushings & the air bags, seems wherever we park they are in direct sunlight.

Gegallant · 03-21-2014, 03:10 AM

Good evening all
I recently wrote the factory regarding the Tri Glide pin box. I have a 36 RL that is about a month old.
When braking, I noticed a bump coming from the pin box. When unhooked, the pin floated back and forth freely about 2 or 3 inches. The bumping was a little uncomfortable since there is about 16000 pounds back there slamming forward when I was trying to stop.
I was not given anything on the pin box in the literature when we picked up the 5er so I didn't know if this was normal or if I was about the be run over by the trailer.
The factory tech replied quickly and informed me that the reason I had the bumping back there was because the grease in the three tubes inside the pin box had not been installed (he thought the tubes may be empty). He indicated the six zerks on the sides of the pin box require grease (2 or 3 squirts) and the 3 zerks inside the pinbox neded to be filled. Appearently, the grease inside the 3 tubes is used as a cushion for the pin movement in the forward and backward directions.
He indicated the maintenance should be done approximately every 1500 miles.
I have now filled the tubes as he indicated (took most of an entire tube of grease). I'm currently in an Rv Park in Florida and will not be on the road for another 10 days, so I can't report on the results of the maintenance.
I can say the the pin moved very freely before I put in the grease. Now, it hardly moves at all and takes a lot of energy to move it. I anticipate the Tri Glide will do a much better job of stopping the rig without the feeling the trailer was going to come through the cab.
Now, if I can only figure out how much air should be in the cushion, I'll be in good shape...I think!?
Hope that bit of information helps.

Safe travels
George and Kay

Railcat · 03-21-2014, 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gegallant

Good evening all
I recently wrote the factory regarding the Tri Glide pin box. I have a 36 RL that is about a month old.
When braking, I noticed a bump coming from the pin box. When unhooked, the pin floated back and forth freely about 2 or 3 inches. The bumping was a little uncomfortable since there is about 16000 pounds back there slamming forward when I was trying to stop.
I was not given anything on the pin box in the literature when we picked up the 5er so I didn't know if this was normal or if I was about the be run over by the trailer.
The factory tech replied quickly and informed me that the reason I had the bumping back there was because the grease in the three tubes inside the pin box had not been installed (he thought the tubes may be empty). He indicated the six zerks on the sides of the pin box require grease (2 or 3 squirts) and the 3 zerks inside the pinbox neded to be filled. Appearently, the grease inside the 3 tubes is used as a cushion for the pin movement in the forward and backward directions.
He indicated the maintenance should be done approximately every 1500 miles.
I have now filled the tubes as he indicated (took most of an entire tube of grease). I'm currently in an Rv Park in Florida and will not be on the road for another 10 days, so I can't report on the results of the maintenance.
I can say the the pin moved very freely before I put in the grease. Now, it hardly moves at all and takes a lot of energy to move it. I anticipate the Tri Glide will do a much better job of stopping the rig without the feeling the trailer was going to come through the cab.
Now, if I can only figure out how much air should be in the cushion, I'll be in good shape...I think!?
Hope that bit of information helps.

Safe travels
George and Kay

Thanks for that info that's why mines doing this I actually greased all 6 on the outside first and then ran out on the tubes.

CV67Cheng · 03-21-2014, 04:23 AM

George and Kay, thanks for a great post. I submitted the same question earlier today and was waiting for the answer. You would think somewhere in the 4 inch binder of information provided by the dealer there would be some information on the tri glide. Thanks for the information, very much appreciated.

johnboytoo · 03-21-2014, 01:03 PM

Good deal - Many of us have been after the same info in other threads - I even spoke to Lippert and their response was vague when I asked how much grease and what type

They want 80, 90, 40, axle, bearing, or ???
and does it take 6 ounces each or ????
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...ease-selection

Have blown seals on motorcycles before with the old
"if a lil is good, a lot is better logic"

so how many ounces did you put in initially ?

**Dave&Ginny** · 03-22-2014, 08:32 PM

I pumped a bunch of grease into mine and so far I can't tell a difference.

5th_Time · 03-23-2014, 08:12 PM

As far as the Tri-glide hitch pressure, most here seem to think that the instructions to hitch up and then fill the bladder until the decal's arrows align with the hood on the shock gives too harsh a ride.

I personally use 65psi and find it's a good compromise. At that pressure, the shock hood is somewhat covering the arrows.

**hoosierguy** · 03-23-2014, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5th_Time

As far as the Tri-glide hitch pressure, most here seem to think that the instructions to hitch up and then fill the bladder until the decal's arrows align with the hood on the shock gives too harsh a ride.

I personally use 65psi and find it's a good compromise. At that pressure, the shock hood is somewhat covering the arrows.

Mike,
I agree with you........I run about 65 PSI also. That puts the shock cover edge at the bottom of the arrow head and the trailer floats along very nicely.

In general, I think that necessary air pressure should be adjusted as a function of the pin weight........ higher pin weight, higher pressure in the air bag; lower pin weight, lower pressure in the air bag. The proper pressure should be where the trailer can be seen to be floating while being towed.
Guy

atom ant · 03-24-2014, 01:41 AM

If I get around to it, I'll be putting a air bag compressor in the pin box cavity and a switch and vent button near the switch for the hitch lights. I would like to be able to hook up and set the pressure where I want it each time with my feet not leaving the pavement.

**Dave&Ginny** · 03-24-2014, 04:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atom ant

If I get around to it, I'll be putting a air bag compressor in the pin box cavity and a switch and vent button near the switch for the hitch lights. I would like to be able to hook up and set the pressure where I want it each time with my feet not leaving the pavement.

I'm thinking the same way

rcflame · 03-24-2014, 05:11 PM

I don't have a trail air, but a trailer saver hitch so all my air compressor and controls are on the truck. For controlling the air bags, I just put an air valve for an air seat in a semi. A simple pull or push on the knob does the job.

**Dave&Ginny** · 03-24-2014, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcflame

I don't have a trail air, but a trailer saver hitch so all my air compressor and controls are on the truck. For controlling the air bags, I just put an air valve for an air seat in a semi. A simple pull or push on the knob does the job.

That sounds like a great set up

atom ant · 03-24-2014, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcflame

I don't have a trail air, but a trailer saver hitch so all my air compressor and controls are on the truck. For controlling the air bags, I just put an air valve for an air seat in a semi. A simple pull or push on the knob does the job.

Does your valve also have electrical contacts to start the compressor? I won't have a continuous air supply or tank, so to inflate the compressor will need to start.

rcflame · 03-25-2014, 01:38 AM

I have the compressor wired with a plug into the truck electrical system. It has a small tank on it and I use it for tires etc. It has a pressure switch on it so when the pressure drops below a set pressure it than kicks in and pumps the tank up to 110 psi and shuts off.

atom ant · 03-25-2014, 01:51 AM

Ah Ok. Probably more sophisticated than I will do for the trailair. I just want the compressor to pump the bag, and a release valve to let it out. I'm trying to get it to all fit in the pin box cavity.

johnboytoo · 03-25-2014, 03:15 AM

I use the wirelessONE compressor from my air bags -
I had them put an outlet near the rear bumper for small things like the trailair...

for tires and all, the airbag compressors duty cycle is just too small to work with those so have a craftsman version of this I can carry in the basement if I don't want to stop at the truck stops... http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-C...air+compressor

You may also like: