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Old 05-15-2020, 01:59 PM   #21
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Good idea. Would the tank be required for that purpose? Or were you planning on using for truck tires also?
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Old 05-15-2020, 03:12 PM   #22
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Dave, you’ll have to play with air pressure in the bags to see where your best ride is. We’re fulltime and loaded heavy (and a RL or RE is pin heavy to begin with. Forget brochure weights, you’ll never be anywhere near that lite) and my pin is very close to 4k lbs.

For us, on a smooth road I have the one preset at 45 psi. The second preset is at 65. If it’s really rough I’ll grab the remote and start adding air till it gets better.

One thing you might want to do is add a switch in the wire that triggers the compressor to come on from the distribution block that the remote controls. The compressor is fairly noisy and if left in the normal wiring configuration will come on and off as the rig goes up and down on a bad road since it’s trying to compensate for the change in pressure. Drives you nuts. On my F350, I have the upfitter switches so I cut the feed wire and switched it through there. That way when the compressor brings the bags up o pressure, I can turn off the switch and the bags hold that pressure and I don’t have to listen to the compressor.

Just remember to turn the switch back on so you don’t sit there with the remote in hand pressing away and wondering why nothing is happening ..............
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Old 05-15-2020, 04:07 PM   #23
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Yes, I wanted to have a compressor that would fill bags, and tires on the truck and trailer. I had in the past carried a air compressor with us and now I can use the truck to do all of this.
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Old 05-15-2020, 04:14 PM   #24
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I assume the upfitter switch is the extras on the dash. So, you were giving yourself a manual shut off. This system is always powered, so when air bag pressure drops the compressor automatically comes on? Then dumps when pressure goes up. That does sound annoying. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 05-17-2020, 12:47 PM   #25
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air bags are a good addition , I run 30-45 psi on my truck with the RL-38 . We have upgraded to Morryde IS 8K with disk brakes in the spring of 2019. I have also done a shock upgrade to the truck.

Think about this the rear truck shocks are the only thing trying to control track and trailer bounce and trailer weight chucking forward and backwards (compressing / lifting the back of the truck). The typical spring suspension doesn't have shocks on the trailer regardless of the trunnion type. Typical trunnion type suspension is designed to accept varying ride height trucks with a nose high or nose low attitude . This helps with tire over loading and blowouts if your trailer isn't level. Morryde IS each wheel is independent of each other so the road imperfections are only put into the trailer by one wheel at a time. Morryde also has a shock on each wheel to control bounce , by doing this you don't get much shock sent thru the hitch on the rear of the truck. I think Comfort Ride slipper springs and shocks would give you a very close ride to Morryde BUT not equal. So ask yourself $3700 + tax for (RW Rally price) Morryde installed by a professional that done the job hundreds of times or $1600 + labor for comfort ride installed by you or a local shop. Morryde is MUCH stronger and has proven to ride smooth enough that I leave my coffee maker on the counter with the glass craft in it unsecured . Don't try that with steel springs! Other then grease and checking bearings Morryde is 99.5% set it and forget it , OEM steel not so much! My trailer had about 12,000 mile on it at the time of replacement , at that time all the bushing where gone , all the springs where flat and the wet bolt on the passenger rear spring had broken some time on the last 400 miles of my trip to Elkhart. ask your self Why some of the more expensive trailers use morryde as there OEM rather than springs. Lux , DRV just to name a few use it as OEM.


Rant over and thanks for listening
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Old 05-18-2020, 02:40 AM   #26
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Thanks XC. I am planning on doing the I/S. Only had this coach for a year. I just want to make sure this my camper for retirement. Will do that upgrade down the road a bit. Do you have the onboard compressor? If so , have you had the same issues with it filling, then dumping when going over expansion joints? I have upgraded to a dually and added H rated 17.5 tires and wheel on RW. Just purchased Load Lifter 5000 with onboard compressor. Haven’t installed air bags yet. Do I need a manual shut off?
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Old 05-18-2020, 11:00 AM   #27
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The air bags in my truck I fill the a bike hand pump for a peddle bike. About 10 pumps get both bags from 8 psi to 40. It's no trouble, the fill valve is Mounted in a spare hole in the license plate , my last truck I drilled a hole in the bumper next to the plate light. Easy to air up and air down. I did have to buy a 1/4" air line T fitting from Amazon to fill both bags equal , the kit doesn't come with one. Air bags kits on a GM take about 2-3 hours to install without the compressor.

Most OEM truck shocks are fairly weak and you will notice some benift to changing to Bilstein yellow or Ranch Rs9000x even on a brand new truck.
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Old 05-23-2020, 09:08 PM   #28
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Shocks

I replaced my shocks OEM Rancho with Bilstein 5100 made a big difference I have a 2019 GMC 3500 HD
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Old 05-23-2020, 09:12 PM   #29
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Shocks

I replaced my shocks OEM Rancho with Bilstein 5100 made a big difference I have a 2019 GMC 3500 HD only had 4500 miles on truck
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Old 05-24-2020, 01:37 AM   #30
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Go with a Goosebox Hitch .Ours is fantastic.Costly but stoped all that bouncing.
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Old 05-24-2020, 02:14 AM   #31
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Piper Guy



I just seen your post and have a question, getting ready to add Kodiak Disc Brakes the question: what size Hydraulic lines did you use? will be installing the Hydrastar HBA-16.


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Old 06-15-2020, 03:55 AM   #32
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I'm very happy with my current setup. I run pacbrake airbags with a ride control valve from a semi. I never have to mess with anything except the occasional tank moisture drain. Shocks are Bilstein 5100's. I run a Reese goosebox air ride GN. The truck rides better with the trailer than any other way I've driven it. There is one bridge out my way that makes just about anything hobby horse regardless of speed. I came across it at 70 and it was as smooth as glass. Blew my mind. I fully expected it to miss behave but it never did. Imo the air bags and air ride GN was worth every penny.
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Old 07-12-2020, 02:09 AM   #33
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Load lifter 5000 with onboard compressor installed. Just finished my first 1000 miles towing. It makes a big difference on the ride. Running 40 psi for most conditions. When the road or expansion joints get bad I pumped up to 60 psi. Before I was cringing at every expansion joint. This trip I only hit 3 that I even noticed. Not a fix all, but a great improvement.
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Old 08-23-2020, 01:21 PM   #34
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Hello! Curious - have you or I guess anybody who reads this post upgraded to Load Range F tires? It won’t help the ride at all, just the opposite. But for greater load bearing, I received a recommendation to consider changing our load range E for F. Thanks for the info about the airbag upgrade and sway bars. I’m going to check into them next week.
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:39 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfman1406 View Post
Hello! Curious - have you or I guess anybody who reads this post upgraded to Load Range F tires? It won’t help the ride at all, just the opposite. But for greater load bearing, I received a recommendation to consider changing our load range E for F. Thanks for the info about the airbag upgrade and sway bars. I’m going to check into them next week.
Not sure what RW you have but personally would go to Gs at the very minimum. For most RWs the Es weren't near enough, especially those that came with the GY Marathons in the early models & Gs were the upgrade option from the factory. If I recall the newer models Gs are standard with the H as the upgrade option. Several of us jumped up to the 17.5" H rated tires & wheels from the Gs to give a better margin of safety & more piece of mind. As for the ride on the factory suspension I couldn't tell any difference between the G @110 psi & H @ 125 psi, nothing more than normal moving around inside or shaking loose.
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Old 08-25-2020, 02:56 PM   #36
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As Danny said - if you have E rated tires on your Redwood, get them off NOW ! Redwood used E rated for two production years and it was a disaster.

If in fact you do have E, seriously suggest you do as most of us have and go to H rated with new wheels. Your choice, Goodyear or Sailun, both are good.
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Old 08-26-2020, 12:06 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfman1406 View Post
Hello! Curious - have you or I guess anybody who reads this post upgraded to Load Range F tires? It won’t help the ride at all, just the opposite. But for greater load bearing, I received a recommendation to consider changing our load range E for F. Thanks for the info about the airbag upgrade and sway bars. I’m going to check into them next week.
Wolfman, if I remember right you have the 2021 like we do and our tire are load range H so I would think yours would be the same?
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