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Old 01-13-2020, 02:55 PM   #1
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 95
Auto leveling display dim

I recently relocated to a new location for my work. Once I had gotten unhooked from my vehicle, I attempted to level up the coach. My leveling display is very dim and if I attempt to use it to raise the two front jacks nothing happens, the display is showing 13.7 volts? Has anyone else had this issue and if so what do we need to do? Thank you! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2020, 07:37 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by View Post
I recently relocated to a new location for my work. Once I had gotten unhooked from my vehicle, I attempted to level up the coach. My leveling display is very dim and if I attempt to use it to raise the two front jacks nothing happens, the display is showing 13.7 volts? Has anyone else had this issue and if so what do we need to do? Thank you!

I have on occasion had an issue with the hydraulic system. I have found that I need to have line voltage connected to the coach when I operate the hydraulics. If your battery/s are a little weak, operating only on the coach battery/s can cause the voltage to drop to the point that the control system will default out and not operate.

When I am setting up the coach, I try to make sure I am connected first to line voltage, then I put down the front jacks, then I disconnect from the truck and then I do an automatic level of the coach.

When I am getting ready to move, I raise the 4 rear jacks, then I raise the front to a height to connect to the truck and then, once connected to truck, I raise the front jacks. After connected to truck, I disconnect line voltage to the coach. This has always worked for me.

If the system does not work at all and goes dead, there is an inline fuse to the hydraulic pump motor that is likely blown. I have had that happen if I only try to operate the system on battery/s only.

Hope this helps.
Guy & Phyllis
2012 RW36RL,DualA/C,KodiakDiskBrakes,TrailAir Tri-Glide,GY_G614's,Roadmaster Comfort Ride Slipper Spring Suspension
2011Dodge3500Laramie,CrewCab,4x4,SRW,Michelins, LongBed,6.7LCTD,3.73,PullRiteSuper5th20.5KHitch, BlueOxBedsaver

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Old 01-13-2020, 08:40 PM   #3
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Several members have mentioned loose connections either at the pump or at the electrical buss near the battery box.
Larry, Stephanie Park City, Utah
2017 31SL King, 8K axles, Disc Brakes,17.5 Goodyear H tires,BU Camera,5.5 Onan, Heated HT pads, Two Uniguard Awnings, Slide Toppers, 2000w PSW inverter
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Old 01-13-2020, 11:56 PM   #4
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many possible problems , There is a solenoid to turn on the pump that should be check and there is 2 auto resetting breakers that seam to be undersized by the LCI when they built the trailer for Redwood. you should have a 80A breaker but LCi put (2) 30 breakers in my . when its cold out the 30A will not lift the rig after it a few years of being overloaded. There is a service bulletin outlining this problem. The next possible issue could be a loose battery connection on the power buss where those breakers are. Front storage area over the battery up high is where the pump is and the breakers are on the sidewall 2' from the pump.

make sure you have 12volt power from the truck or shore power connected before you level up or push the slides out. you need very good battery or your putting the pump and controls into a low voltage situation.
Mark & Melissa
2015 Redwood RL38 , Kodiak disk brakes , 17.5" tires , 8K Morryde IS , 2024 GMC 3500 DRW
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Old 01-14-2020, 12:10 AM   #5
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Good thoughts on trying to help with his hydraulic situation. The fuses and charger bar are installed by Redwood not LCI. I believe what you are calling a solenoid is actually a power reversing solenoid, and LCI uses a Trombetta brand. I have found very similar units on ebay for under $20. Many use these to power their snow plows up and down, I bought one for an emergency spare to keep in our Redwood as purchasing one from a dealer or LCI will run over $75. I do agree that a 30 amp or 2-30 amp resetting fuse is not enough to keep the pump motor running continuously. Many have upgraded to a 60 or 80 amp with good results. Be sure to check Lippert's website for troubleshooting info and LIPsheets.
Chris & Maria

2012 36RL, Full Body Paint, Dual Awning, Dual a/c, Splendide Combo, Fisher Paykel dishwasher, 6.5kW Onan, Goodyear G614's. 2015 F550 6.7l, 4X4, Lariat, CC, 176" WB, Long Box, B&W Companion
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Old 01-15-2020, 10:36 PM   #6
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Lastly, check your ground connections to the chassis. Lots of strange electrical issues when the ground connections are corroded.
Mike & Pam '12 36RL, Kodiak Discs, 17.5" G114s H-Rated, SRE4000 w/HD Shackles, Joy Rider Shocks, Flex Air, 5.5 Onan, W&D, DW, 4 Scare Lights, (2) 6V Trojan T-145s; Progressive EMS-HW50C, Winegard DTV Sat, Sony/Denon 4K Home Theater, WiFiRanger EliteAC Pack, weBoost 4G-X Cell Booster.

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Old 01-18-2020, 11:33 PM   #7
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Hello NWIRT, yes I had the same thing happen to me. There are two buttons behind two power toggles on your back wall behind your batteries. You can’t see them but you can feel them. If they are up you need to push them down. Then you can raise your jack. Found this out after a mobile RV repair came to up get my jacks up.
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Old 01-19-2020, 02:54 PM   #8
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When I picked up my 2012 36RL last year the seller lowered in on my truck. Got home had trouble getting it off the truck. Almost hit the truck when everything retracted. Started trouble shooting, converted trailer back to dual batteries previous owner had gone down to one battery. Still had numerous intermittent problems. Contacted LCI and they stated that I had so many problems I should start with changing control panel first. Replaced control panel and have had no further problems.
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