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Old 08-23-2016, 09:04 PM   #981
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X2, our last SOB had the door window & all it was good for was letting heat in through the very thin piece of glass, always had a towel hanging over it.
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:43 PM   #982
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Our last SOB also had a window and to tell you the truth, we miss the extra light in the kitchen area. I am not going to install a window, but we do miss it.
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Old 08-24-2016, 01:16 AM   #983
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That's why we installed the lexon in the screen door so we can get the light in but retain the heat or cooling
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Old 08-24-2016, 03:00 AM   #984
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Trailair Tri-glide modifications

Wasn't happy with the performance of my Tri-glide pin box. Everyone said to keep it well greased. Looked into that this afternoon and surprisingly it was not correctly greased. Pumped quite a bit of grease into all 9 fittings, but finally got grease to come out around the seals. Hope the helps with the jerking and yanking when encountering bad dips and bumps on the highway, especially on bridges.

While I was there, I put a elbow on the air filling valve. Much easier to inflate now.

I have a Pull-rite Super-glide hitch in my truck. It requires a capture plate to go on the pin box to work correctly. It was only secured with three set screws. The set screw on the king pin is fine and relatively secure. The two on the front to keep the capture plate from turning were very iffy, as a matter of fact, i ended up knocking it off while greasing the tri-glide! Decided to fix that permanently. I drilled two 1/4" holes throw the capture plate and through the king pin plate. They are well away from the king pin and I'm very confident that it will cause no harm. Counter-sunk the bottom hole and installed two aircraft alloy machine screws with grade 8 washers and ny-lock nuts. This is much better and I now feel much safer and secure. Here are a few pictures:
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File Type: jpg IMG_2887.jpg (252.2 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2888.jpg (107.1 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2889.jpg (258.2 KB, 3 views)
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Old 08-24-2016, 12:51 PM   #985
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Originally Posted by C Flohr View Post
Wasn't happy with the performance of my Tri-glide pin box. Everyone said to keep it well greased. Looked into that this afternoon and surprisingly it was not correctly greased. Pumped quite a bit of grease into all 9 fittings, but finally got grease to come out around the seals. Hope the helps with the jerking and yanking when encountering bad dips and bumps on the highway, especially on bridges.

While I was there, I put a elbow on the air filling valve. Much easier to inflate now.

I have a Pull-rite Super-glide hitch in my truck. It requires a capture plate to go on the pin box to work correctly. It was only secured with three set screws. The set screw on the king pin is fine and relatively secure. The two on the front to keep the capture plate from turning were very iffy, as a matter of fact, i ended up knocking it off while greasing the tri-glide! Decided to fix that permanently. I drilled two 1/4" holes throw the capture plate and through the king pin plate. They are well away from the king pin and I'm very confident that it will cause no harm. Counter-sunk the bottom hole and installed two aircraft alloy machine screws with grade 8 washers and ny-lock nuts. This is much better and I now feel much safer and secure. Here are a few pictures:
I like what you did..... I am just waiting for mine to fall when I am doing something near it and loose a toe...
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Old 08-24-2016, 02:58 PM   #986
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Got IS at MORryde

After the rally, stopped off at MORryde in Elkhart for an 8K Independent suspension. Coach was backed in to the shop at sunrise.
MORryde tech (Tyler) did a great job, leveled the coach/truck after the IS install by lowering the Reese 20K. He also adjusted the Trailair. Coach now tows like a dream!
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Old 08-24-2016, 03:02 PM   #987
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I wonder the total count of Redwoods that made their way to get the IS either before or after the rally ?? When I was there in June getting mine , I believe Rob told me 9 or 10 were scheduled ??
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Old 08-24-2016, 03:04 PM   #988
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I was one of three on August 8.
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Old 08-24-2016, 04:17 PM   #989
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Couple days ago finally got the Plexiglas installed in the door, it was a bit of a project to support the ends (notice the bronze metal strips), but it turned out good & DW loves to keep the door open.
Steve, I think my door is different from yours, so wondering if there are different styles & you cutting for a universal fit might be a problem.
20160824_100151.jpg

20160824_100131.jpg
Sorry messed up that one pic with the Ford in it!
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Old 08-24-2016, 04:19 PM   #990
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Originally Posted by RW Cal View Post
After the rally, stopped off at MORryde in Elkhart for an 8K Independent suspension. Coach was backed in to the shop at sunrise.
MORryde tech (Tyler) did a great job, leveled the coach/truck after the IS install by lowering the Reese 20K. He also adjusted the Trailair. Coach now tows like a dream!

That's a beautiful picture ! ! ! !
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Old 08-24-2016, 04:30 PM   #991
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It's OK. Most people don't notice them...
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Old 08-24-2016, 04:37 PM   #992
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Maybe a fun thread - its used on my Jeep Forum and one of the most popular. Nothing too small or too big - just a chance to post what you worked on!

Replaced my vent flapper (ordered a new one through Tiara RV). Was able to salvage the painted outside and sneak in there with a new flap. The new one happens to be black by the way, which is way too cool.
I think this is the longest thread on the forum and still active. Nice work Brad the thread was started 9/2015
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:00 PM   #993
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In Campaign IL visiting with DW BFF of over 50 years for a few days. Rain in forecast so climbed on roof to check after the last month of 90 deg temps. A small section of roof to front cap trim has lifted or buckled to cause a 4" long gap about 1/8" high in the joint compound. Filled it with flexible sealant for now to prevent water egress. Area has been "topped up" with the famous self levelling sealant that is now 4 layers deep in this area during my warranty period at the dealer. Most of this stuff is starting to crack where ever it has been applied.
How do I remove all this stuff and start sealing the front and back cap from scratch? What aftermarket sealant should I use that is compatible with the Alpha roof material?
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:18 PM   #994
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In Campaign IL visiting with DW BFF of over 50 years for a few days. Rain in forecast so climbed on roof to check after the last month of 90 deg temps. A small section of roof to front cap trim has lifted or buckled to cause a 4" long gap about 1/8" high in the joint compound. Filled it with flexible sealant for now to prevent water egress. Area has been "topped up" with the famous self levelling sealant that is now 4 layers deep in this area during my warranty period at the dealer. Most of this stuff is starting to crack where ever it has been applied.
How do I remove all this stuff and start sealing the front and back cap from scratch? What aftermarket sealant should I use that is compatible with the Alpha roof material?
.

Use a plastic scraper very carefully . Then I would use Eternabond and not think about it again...

If it were me , I would keep the old stuff there , and go over it with 6" or 8" strip of eternabond .. just make sure you are far enough OVER the spots where you have an issue
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:29 PM   #995
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Originally Posted by BradPAjax View Post
In Campaign IL visiting with DW BFF of over 50 years for a few days. Rain in forecast so climbed on roof to check after the last month of 90 deg temps. A small section of roof to front cap trim has lifted or buckled to cause a 4" long gap about 1/8" high in the joint compound. Filled it with flexible sealant for now to prevent water egress. Area has been "topped up" with the famous self levelling sealant that is now 4 layers deep in this area during my warranty period at the dealer. Most of this stuff is starting to crack where ever it has been applied.
How do I remove all this stuff and start sealing the front and back cap from scratch? What aftermarket sealant should I use that is compatible with the Alpha roof material?
I agree with Ford Truck Guy, if you really want to resolve the issue use eternabond. If you want to try and recaulk then Alpha recommends you remove any loose caulk first. If there is no loose caulk then simply clean area with soap and water and let dry, then recaulk using their Alpha Sealant. They sell a self leveling and a non-self leveling (used on sides and vertical areas). Both of these caulks are available at Used RVs, Motorhomes for Sale, and Consigned sales - PPL Motor Homes. They may be available elsewhere but I have purchased from PPL. Item numbers 69-8347, 69-8348, 69-8349
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:33 PM   #996
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Thanks... used Fantastik spray cleaner to clean the bad area... this stuff is now about 10-12 inches wide due to 3-4 successive applications to previous applications to cover splits and voids... really an eyesore. Would prefer to remove all this and do it right the first time.
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:58 PM   #997
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I used a heat gun lightly to make mine soft enough to scrape when I replaced my plumbing stack vents. Used the Alpha self-leveling to reseal but removal & recaulking is still a messy, sloppy looking job. Best part was finding out that mineral spirits (paint thinner) really works great to clean up the mess. Also cleaned small areas of the roof spills perfectly, but not sure that's recommended - Oops...
Eternal Bond works great but you can't change your mind once you start. My cap seams don't seem flat enough for it without existing sealant removal.
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:03 PM   #998
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Thanks all for your quick replies... found a distributor right down the road in Champaign so going there right now... getting this stuff in Canada is such a PITA.
Will wait until we get home to do a slow and careful job of removing as much of the old stuff as I can with a plastic putty knife and a heat gun. Distributor highly recommended a metal roller to get the best possible adhesion.
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:40 PM   #999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin' texans View Post
Couple days ago finally got the Plexiglas installed in the door, it was a bit of a project to support the ends (notice the bronze metal strips), but it turned out good & DW loves to keep the door open.
Steve, I think my door is different from yours, so wondering if there are different styles & you cutting for a universal fit might be a problem.
Attachment 2377

Attachment 2378
Sorry messed up that one pic with the Ford in it!
Danny,
Is it to do with the flange or are you thinking size?

Steve
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Old 08-24-2016, 10:33 PM   #1000
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Warmed up the Genny and changed oil and filter. And I did get all 2 qts of oil in, just have to go real slow.
Also raised the bands around the Propane Tanks by 6 inches. Seems they are positioned for standard 30 Lb tanks, so they sit rather low on 40 Lb tanks.
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