What Did You Do To Your Redwood Today?

[BradPAjax]

Had all slides open to wash the side walls... everything worked when I closed it last night. Main slide worked this morning... no sound from bedroom slide... Will go out to investigate.

[Shane Wood]

Brad
Sorry about the name mix up I saw all the lighthouses and got confuses. Hopefully you find the problem soon. Please keep us updated

[BradPAjax]

No wet carpet, no error codes on controller, no loose connections, no bad fuses...
Hmmm... hooked up Shore Power and bedroom slide works!!! WTH!!! Must be time for new batteries... never had this issue before. Got the heart movin' on a Monday morning. Guess I will be firing up the genny from now on when moving slides off the grid.

Now I am going to scrape all that nasty self leveling caulk off the front and back caps and re-seal with the tape I bought in Chanpaign, IL. Will post photos of before and after.

[Shane Wood]

I would pull the batteries and get them load tested. Alsoare sure your convertor is charging them, maybe got turned off accidentally

[travelin' texans]

I'm very interested in your roof repair with the Eternabond tape, so please do post your before/during/after pics. Mine aren't leaking, but as with all the places they caulked on my rig they must have gotten paid by the tube, both end caps have about a 3" wide strip about a 1/2" thick all the way across, it's gonna be a real PITA to remove all the caulk.

[Rick and Mindy]

Depending on what it looks like, I'm not sure I would remove the caulk unless it is loose. You can get the eternabond tape in various widths which would allow you to tape right over the caulk. I have used it around a leaking ceiling vent before and I did not remove existing caulk. It worked great. I wouldn't want to compromise the glued down roofing material when I tried to remove the caulk. Be very careful when removing the caulk so you don't lift the roofing material up. Someone on this forum recently stated that using a heat gun very carefully will help in the removal of the caulk. Maybe just a hair dryer would work. Keep us posted, we may all be attempting it someday.

[piper guy]

I used 6" Eternabond on front and back caps over. Existing caulk. Ford truck guy told me about the idea. Did it as a preventive measure.

[RCAircraft]

Originally Posted by Rick and Mindy

Depending on what it looks like, I'm not sure I would remove the caulk unless it is loose. You can get the eternabond tape in various widths which would allow you to tape right over the caulk. I have used it around a leaking ceiling vent before and I did not remove existing caulk. It worked great. I wouldn't want to compromise the glued down roofing material when I tried to remove the caulk. Be very careful when removing the caulk so you don't lift the roofing material up. Someone on this forum recently stated that using a heat gun very carefully will help in the removal of the caulk. Maybe just a hair dryer would work. Keep us posted, we may all be attempting it someday.

Our self leveling sealant has been covered with Eternabond tape then the RV shop sealed along the edges of the tape. Seems like overkill however no leaks in nearly five years and they can charge me for all the labor and materials!! The Eternabond tape and sealant is not cheap however it does work.

[Rick and Mindy]

Originally Posted by RCAircraft

Our self leveling sealant has been covered with Eternabond tape then the RV shop sealed along the edges of the tape. Seems like overkill however no leaks in nearly five years and they can charge me for all the labor and materials!! The Eternabond tape and sealant is not cheap however it does work.

If you go to the Eternabond site I believe it does say that all edges should be caulked, which has always made me wonder why Redwood never did that to the tops of the slides. It is great stuff and almost impossible to remove once placed. The correct way to attempt to remove the tape is with a heat gun.

[BradPAjax]

I am working in a very narrow weather window with 70 deg nights and 80 degree days.
The caulking looked like a dog's breakfast... at least 3 overlapping layers.

I was able to remove all the caulk with plastic putty scrapers... very pliable at this temperature. I then removed the residue with Goo Gone.

I front cap trim was lifted in 3 places and was causing tears in the caulking. I found 2 screws missing, 3 broken off just below the head and 1 rust covered. I removed and replaced all the screws. I caulked the metal trim down with ProFlex RV clear sealant. I then covered the trim with self leveling caulking to make a seam about 1-1/2" wide. I will be covering this with 6" Eternabond tape. Overkill maybe but I don't want to have to top coat the self levelling every year and completely removed it every 5 years when it starts to crack... which is what mine is doing.

[Rick and Mindy]

Originally Posted by BradPAjax

I am working in a very narrow weather window with 70 deg nights and 80 degree days.
The caulking looked like a dog's breakfast... at least 3 overlapping layers.

I was able to remove all the caulk with plastic putty scrapers... very pliable at this temperature. I then removed the residue with Goo Gone.

I front cap trim was lifted in 3 places and was causing tears in the caulking. I found 2 screws missing, 3 broken off just below the head and 1 rust covered. I removed and replaced all the screws. I caulked the metal trim down with ProFlex RV clear sealant. I then covered the trim with self leveling caulking to make a seam about 1-1/2" wide. I will be covering this with 6" Eternabond tape. Overkill maybe but I don't want to have to top coat the self levelling every year and completely removed it every 5 years when it starts to crack... which is what mine is doing.

Please try and take pics during the process and post so we can see how you did it. Thanks

[BradPAjax]

Hi,
I took lots of pix to cover myself should anything happen in the future. I am letting the self levelling caulk setup for the next day or so before I apply the tape over top. Going to rain on Friday so Thursday is the day to apply the tape to complete this job. I will post pictures on Friday to show the whole process.

[HTX]

Between the heat, working a regular job and a stream of small to large issues it has taken almost a month to get moved over from my old RV to the Redwood. First impression was how quiet it is. Not only the ducted return AC vent which is great but outside noise levels seem much lower.

The biggest single project I undertook directly related to the RW was coating the under carriage with a product called Fluid Film. I'm set up 50 ft. from the Gulf Inter-coastal Waterway and I know from experience with the previous RV the exposed steel takes a beating. I'll let you know how it is working in 6 months or so.

Other completed projects during the transition included replacing the slide piston I posted about in my first post and installing the on board Progressive surge protector recommended by many of you but since I let qualified service techs do that I'm not sure if it counts for the purpose of this thread.

HTX

[spindrift]

HTX...if I schedule a trip with you, will you guarantee me a fish like that one?

[Coco]

How do you get the molding off the fireplace glass to clean the inside? Redwood Company has been no help at all. Why does it get black inside the fireplace? They say clan with any glass cleaner I know that. I understand if I can get the molding off then pull the fireplace and re establish with velcro so it will be easier next time. Just how do I get the molding off without damaging the front. EEEEK

[r time soon]

What model of fireplace do you have? Mine is a Dimplex NBDF2608. If yours is the same, the manual shows to remove from cabinet. Then remove the 3 screws on the right side trim. then slide the glass out. Yours might be different.

Chris

[Coco]

I have no idea what the make is . It is a 2013 31 foot Redwood RV. I did not receive and instructions on the fireplace when I bought it. I wish to know how to remove the wooded frame around the glass to get the the screws that you spoke about.

[r time soon]

Usually there is a data sheet inside one of your larger cabinet doors, possible coat closet or where your switches for water pump and water heater and such are located. Normally they have listed most of the appliances and such by manufacturer, model and serial number. If you can find this it would help in locating a manual with instructions for your fireplace. Google is a good place once you locate that data sheet.

Chris

[5th_Time]

Somewhere in your RW there is a decal with every piece of equipment, its model number and serial number. Mine is in the front closet with the monitor panel.

[r time soon]

Originally Posted by Coco

I have no idea what the make is . It is a 2013 31 foot Redwood RV. I did not receive and instructions on the fireplace when I bought it. I wish to know how to remove the wooded frame around the glass to get the the screws that you spoke about.

Coco, If your fireplace is trimmed with a wooden frame, it is most likely attached with 18 ga brad nails. Carefully use a small 1" stiff metel putty knife and a mini pry bar to loosen then pull off trim molding. Pretty sure the brad pin nails will remain in the face front when you pull it off. The nail heads will need to be cut off in order to use a velcro type fastener that you want to use. Good luck in not gouging the wood too much.

Chris