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Old 01-24-2023, 12:41 AM   #1
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Exclamation Newbie- Airxcel or furnace 80deg yet set 70deg!?

my Unit - 2018 RW 3901WB - we bought to house Val's Dad 90yr at our Home in Scottsdale - just moved Dad in and after Temp went down... Big problem is controlling heat which is from furnace since temp is <35deg. Airxcel Thermostats switch from HeatPumps to Furnace at some temp. Heat in bedroom set at 71deg and poor Ed getting 80deg blowing on him at night. I called the dealership and they said change out the thermostat which looked good - so swapped with identical living room Airxcel and then same thing happened so could be both were wacky but odds against. Not sure what to try. I put the new one back on living room and no problem. Any ideas?

Other non critical issues were are finding:
.Manual basically says "be safe and call the vendors for help" missing manuals for many vendors and appliances
.The undercarriage covering torn and patch came apart welcoming critters (dumb we didn't inspect before delivery). Supplier?
.Electrical schematics needed?
.undercarriage schematic?
.tank level indicators show full when empty so advice ungunking them?
Any suggestions Thanks a Bunch
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Old 01-24-2023, 03:17 AM   #2
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As far as the leveling goes, two feet from front to back is quite a bit. However, the auto leveling system should be able to get it level. if you have an RV refrig and not a residential refrig it should not be ran when the trailer is very much out of level.
I don't know what is wrong with the thermostat. Mine is older and different.
The tank level indicators are notorious for not working on about all rv's I don't pay any attention to them. Our gray tank will start bubbling when full.
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Old 01-24-2023, 11:53 AM   #3
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Hi Gary - a few questions, and I have a RL, so the layout is a bit different.

Which unit has the thermostat that is labeled AC, Gas Heat, Electric heat ? Or does this unit have the option for heat pumps in both units ?

In my RL, the rear unit that serves the living area has the gas and electric and the front unit is AC only. Btw, I’m in Arizona also, but way up north in Page. As I write this it is 27 degrees outside and the coach is et to 68 and holding that temperature.

My front(bedroom) unit is shut off entirely. The rear ( main thermostat) is on Gas heat. If you set it to electric and outside temp goes below 40 degrees, the heat pump will gradually blow cold air. Sometimes the thermostat will automatically switch over to gas, but in my experience, it does not turn off the overhead unit which now blows cold.
If I know that temps are going below 40, I use gas only.

First thing to check is make sure the fan is on “auto” and thermostat that controls the furnace is set to “gas”. Other thermostat is “off”. A very common issue is that the vent hose in the bedroom area becomes unhooked from the register. If this happens, the basement will be very warm and also the bedroom floor will be nice and toasty under your feet. Feels great but not efficient ! Lol

Also, another issue is that depending on what wall the thermostat is mounted on, the inside of the wall can act as a very efficient carrier of air and screw up the temp sensor on the thermostat. Very common issue in the RL with the thermostat mounted on the wall by the steps, not sure where yours is.
In any case, unscrew the thermostat and stuff insulation and foam below the thermostat and into the wall cavity to insulate the thermostat from any airflow that can come up from the basement. If too much cold air is coming up this way, it would screw up the thermostat temp reading and it would think it needs to call for heat when in fact it doesn’t.

Hope this helps
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Old 01-29-2023, 01:05 PM   #4
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RV Problems

I agree with the last writer. If we use the heat on gas when needed. The air pump is only for cooling if the temp is above 40. It actually uses the outside air to cool the rig.

Iíve found on the tank indicators that it takes about 20 to 30 minutes running the tank cleaner to get the indicators to work. Since I started doing that I havenít had any problems, I have a 2013. Remember to keep the black tank open during this procedure. Itís just paper covering the sensor.

If you check Amazon you will find RV tape to seal the underbelly. Itís wide snd very sticky.

I saw something mentioned about height from front to back. If there is a large difference then you need to reduce the amount of travel from the jacks by putting blocks under the jacks on the high end. You can by those on Amazon also.

Best of luck on your Dads new life. Make lots of memories.
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Old 01-30-2023, 05:39 AM   #5
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RJBerry, Thanks I missed your comments before. I now know the temp range to use Heat Pump vs furnace - again manual just indicate check with appliance Mfgr. and haven't gone on roof or to where ever the furnace Model/S# should be. I tried stuffing insulation behind the thermostat although that didn't alter the fact that the furnace is heating to 80 despite the setting of 71!. Unfortunately Ed is getting used to 80deg and dressing like he's in the Tropics? I'll try with hesitation to set temp to 62deg and find Furnace instructions. Good that Scottsdale only has so many of below 50deg days.
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Old 01-30-2023, 05:42 AM   #6
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I forgot to has what you mean by tank cleaner. Is this just the water hose temporarily fed into the connection for spraying into the top of the tank (or side?)? I'm going to do this washout rather than refilling from the exit pipe then Muratic acid wash.
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Old 01-31-2023, 03:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgmesch View Post
I forgot to has what you mean by tank cleaner. Is this just the water hose temporarily fed into the connection for spraying into the top of the tank (or side?)? I'm going to do this washout rather than refilling from the exit pipe then Muratic acid wash.
I WOULD NOT use muratic acid!
First & foremost it won't help the sensors, they are & always have been just slightly more than useless. Second I don't have a clue what the acid may do to the plastic tank.
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