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Old 01-13-2015, 03:07 PM   #21
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They really lead me to believe when I was there in May, that they would start wiring the switch to be a true cutoff switch. Apparently, an engineer must have put a stop to that or the idea of change does not run friendly with the employees assembling these beasts. Once Randy decided the correct way to rewire, it was a simple fix, it took them maybe 15 minutes once the corrective action was approved.
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:36 PM   #22
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So far there appears to be concerns for maintaining power to two systems regardless of switch position:

1 - trailer braking system
2 - bedroom slide

Is it true that you must have power from the batteries to these items when pulling the RW?
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:41 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GA1817 View Post
So far there appears to be concerns for maintaining power to two systems regardless of switch position:

1 - trailer braking system
2 - bedroom slide

Is it true that you must have power from the batteries to these items when pulling the RW?
It is definitely true for the trailer braking system. In the event that the trailer disconnects from the tow vehicle the battery will provide power to activate the brakes when the emergency brake cable disconnects from the tow vehicle. Not sure about the slide system but the explanation given earlier makes sense.
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:44 PM   #24
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In defense of Redwood - Neither of my Montanas were a true battery switch either. The slides and landing gear still worked with the switch OFF. Didn't have docking lights.
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:46 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by johnboytoo View Post
The liability concern is a smoke screen for some ludicrous reason we don't know!

On EVERY rv I've had going back decades,
the cutoff switch cut off power - maybe that's why they first started calling it a CUTOFF switch

I guess my question is:
How do still push the liability question if the batteries are completely dead from NOT being cutoff?
the switch will not alleviate the liability concern then.

can you tell this is another hot button for me
JB2, with advance apologies to any honest lawyers on this forum, if you can get a company like McDonalds to pay out a large sum of $$ to a woman who goes after them after putting a hot cup of coffee between her legs and then getting burned I can appreciate why some companies are overly careful. In Canada we are a little better on this front but we are starting to see some "ambulance chasing" starting up as well.

Every time I buy a cup of coffee and see "warning contents may be hot" it reminds me of this stupidity.
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:48 PM   #26
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JB2, with advance apologies to any honest lawyers on this forum, if you can get a company like McDonalds to pay out a large sum of $$ to a woman who goes after them after putting a hot cup of coffee between her legs and then getting burned I can appreciate why some companies are overly careful. In Canada we are a little better on this front but we are starting to see some "ambulance chasing" starting up as well.

Every time I buy a cup of coffee and see "warning contents may be hot" it reminds me of this stupidity.
There is no liability unless there is a code or standard somewhere that dictates how it is configured, so there must be a code or standard somewhere,.....or not
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:02 PM   #27
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I guess the biggest problem is for those RW owners who must place their units in a storage facility with no access to power. My unit is essentially sitting in the middle of the woods with no shore power. I am at the unit at least every other weekend and run my El Cheapo portable generator which charges the batteries back up. I am always at 1/2 power even after two weeks. I was mainly interested in preventing my awning from auto deploying while going down the road. Switching the disconnect to off while towing resolves my primary concern so I am leaving mine 'As Is". We should be full timing in a few months.
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:14 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GA1817 View Post
So far there appears to be concerns for maintaining power to two systems regardless of switch position:

1 - trailer braking system
2 - bedroom slide

Is it true that you must have power from the batteries to these items when pulling the RW?

That statement is absolutely true. I forgot about the electric slide motors requiring power to park those slide motors active while transporting.
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:31 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by GA1817 View Post
I guess the biggest problem is for those RW owners who must place their units in a storage facility with no access to power. My unit is essentially sitting in the middle of the woods with no shore power. I am at the unit at least every other weekend and run my El Cheapo portable generator which charges the batteries back up. I am always at 1/2 power even after two weeks. I was mainly interested in preventing my awning from auto deploying while going down the road. Switching the disconnect to off while towing resolves my primary concern so I am leaving mine 'As Is". We should be full timing in a few months.
Have you known of a problem with the awnings deploying automatically? The only issue I heard of was when something in the basement would hit the switch located in the basement resulting in the awning extending during travel. Redwood fixed that with a recall and now I don't think they have a 2nd switch located in the basement anymore.
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:31 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboytoo View Post
The liability concern is a smoke screen for some ludicrous reason we don't know!

On EVERY rv I've had going back decades,
the cutoff switch cut off power - maybe that's why they first started calling it a CUTOFF switch

I guess my question is:
How do still push the liability question if the batteries are completely dead from NOT being cutoff?
the switch will not alleviate the liability concern then.

can you tell this is another hot button for me
johnboytoo.........don't overreact here. No one should be trying to operate/tow these coaches without the batteries being charged. If that means you take them home and charge them, so be it. From a safety standpoint, that is absolutely required. I don't care if Redwood does not know how to properly wire these coaches to keep the batteries from discharging.....that is merely an inconvenience to you and me.

Case in point, several years ago I had a cousin killed while he was driving to work at night because someone was pulling a goose neck trailer without a properly operating emergency brake system. The trailer came loose from the truck and instead of coming to a stop on its own, it careened across the interstate, hitting my cousin's car head on and took the top off his car and him! Please keep this stuff in perspective folks.
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:49 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick and Mindy View Post
Have you known of a problem with the awnings deploying automatically? The only issue I heard of was when something in the basement would hit the switch located in the basement resulting in the awning extending during travel. Redwood fixed that with a recall and now I don't think they have a 2nd switch located in the basement anymore.
Rick,

My 36RL has switches in the basement. There are two of them even though one is inactive as I have only one awning. The switch works so there is always a chance for something to hit it while traveling. I will likely place some type of cover over mine to prevent this from happening. I had read somewhere a guy tell his story of something shifting in the basement and hitting the switch. That awning does not hold up well at 60 to 70 mph
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:57 PM   #32
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Rick,

My 36RL has switches in the basement. There are two of them even though one is inactive as I have only one awning. The switch works so there is always a chance for something to hit it while traveling. I will likely place some type of cover over mine to prevent this from happening. I had read somewhere a guy tell his story of something shifting in the basement and hitting the switch. That awning does not hold up well at 60 to 70 mph
You need to contact Redwood because there was a recall by Redwood and you should have been sent a cover which has Velcro on it and easily installs over the switches to prevent that. I was sent one. That is why the switches are no longer located in the basement.
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:00 PM   #33
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You need to contact Redwood because there was a recall by Redwood and you should have been sent a cover which has Velcro on it and easily installs over the switches to prevent that. I was sent one. That is why the switches are no longer located in the basement.
Having bought it used I doubt they would give me one!
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:01 PM   #34
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Guy, can you draw up a diagram on what you did so some of us can copy it?
Dave, these drawings have previously been posted on the other forum. When I did my work, I did not try to trace where the 5 circuits went within the coach. I will try to place copies here. I have not tried to confirm the drawing showing the circuits in the coach.

Hope this helps.
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File Type: pdf TrailerDiscSw&BreakerWiringInfo.PDF (351.9 KB, 37 views)
File Type: pdf Bus Bar Circuits.pdf (23.4 KB, 32 views)
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:09 PM   #35
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Having bought it used I doubt they would give me one!
That is an easy fix whether or not you can get something from Redwood. A small 8 inch by 8 inch piece of 1/4 inch plywood and a frame made of 1 inch by 1 inch material and an 8 inch length of piano hinge does the job very nicely.
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:12 PM   #36
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I sent an email to RW to see if a cover was still available. I thought it would be a good test to see if they will respond!
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:25 PM   #37
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I sent an email to RW to see if a cover was still available. I thought it would be a good test to see if they will respond!
Alternatively just pop out the switches in the basement and pull the power off of them. Be sure to put some heat shrink or electrical tape on the exposed connectors though. This guarantees that the switches won't activate.

Never understood why they put the awning switches in the basement to begin with...
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:41 PM   #38
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Dean, should be easy to DIY...
ours must have been a dealer 'fix' because ours looks different than others that have been posted..
some look like these clear exterior waterproof switch covers, but ours is a carpeted top hinged cover - just gravity closed
Attached Images
File Type: jpg RW Switch Cover.jpg (401.2 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg RW switches small.jpg (230.0 KB, 0 views)
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Old 01-13-2015, 06:07 PM   #39
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That one looks nice John! That might be a solution but i would make it half the height. I remember seeing a pic somewhere that looked like a black exterior outlet cover that looked good as well. I personally like having the switches in the basement!
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Old 01-13-2015, 06:22 PM   #40
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Just thinking about a solution to the issue of a complete electrical shutdown and the liability problems it causes to manufacturers, if they wanted to do it.

I remember in the old days the pick ups had an option to install a second battery for truck campers and there was a solenoid that isolated the "camper" battery to prevent it from draining the main one when the truck engine was stopped.

I note that the newer trucks "know" when the trailer is connected, not sure what circuit they get the signal off, if the RV folks devised a circuit consisting of a solenoid or isolator that connects the batts to the trailer when the trailer is connected to the truck (disconnects when not connected) and a bypass switch in the monitor panel that activates the solenoid if you want to run on battery power it would solve the problem. I would't depend on the umbilical power line in the trailer harness as I believe some manufacturers don't install a fuse in the box, you have to do it. Maybe the brake power to the trailer from the truck?

I did half this mod to an older RV that had the disconnect behind the basement wall and didn't fully disconnect the trailer, I installed a solenoid near the batts with a simple on-off switch that disconnected the batts when we were parked.
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