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Old 05-27-2014, 11:08 PM   #41
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I've taken part of our 36RL pan down and it was a PIA to get it back up. The part I took down was under our steps. It was about eight feet long and made of some sort of corridated plastic that was rather stiff. You'll need a S2 square socket bit and a power drill. There must have been 20 or 30 screws holding the pan up. If I was to do it again, I'd enlist a friend to hold it up while I rescrewed it.
Thanks, great info! I've got some jack stands I might be able to use: I don't think my wife will want to crawl under and hold it up while I fasten it back up. But I could be wrong- she's a gutsy gal and one heck of a mechanic (theoretical).
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:23 PM   #42
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Thanks, great info! I've got some jack stands I might be able to use: I don't think my wife will want to crawl under and hold it up while I fasten it back up. But I could be wrong- she's a gutsy gal and one heck of a mechanic (theoretical).
Jackstands are a great idea! I however put some leveling plates under the rear hydraulic jacks and just raised the coach. The hydraulic jacks are rated to lift 46,000 pounds so I felt pretty comfortable.
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:31 PM   #43
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I think he means jack stands to hold the belly pan up ??
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:47 PM   #44
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I think he means jack stands to hold the belly pan up ??
I'm not sure what he was referring too. But I do know that you have to bow the pan to get it up over the I-beam of the frame and then resecure the metal strips that are are used as a back plates to screw it in place. I found when you get one side over the I-beam and then move to the other side, the first side comes out.
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:56 AM   #45
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I'm not sure what he was referring too. But I do know that you have to bow the pan to get it up over the I-beam of the frame and then resecure the metal strips that are are used as a back plates to screw it in place. I found when you get one side over the I-beam and then move to the other side, the first side comes out.
Yes, I was referring to jack stands to hold the belly pan up while I screwed it back into place. Instead of my wife. But since I haven't taken delivery yet,I haven't seen how it's put together and I'm just wondering out loud.
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Old 05-28-2014, 01:51 PM   #46
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I've lowered the edge of the pan where the fresh water & overflow drains are [the curb side], as mentioned before it is held in place by a strip of trim that runs the entire length of the pan. The sheet metal screws that hold it in place are placed proximately every 12 inches and go through the trim and the corrugated plastic and then into the I-beam frame. Each side of the pan is secured this way, the ends are also secured the same way. There are also sheet metal screws in the center though fewer, they are spaced further apart. I'e never dropped the entire pan just the edge where I needed to do repairs.
To put the pan back up you have to line up the existing holes in the trim and pan with the holes in the frame which can be problematic but not impossible.

Dropping the entire pan would take time and the biggest issue is just scooting around underneath the coach, if you did it on concrete with a crawler it would be easier. Be aware that not only are the water tanks contained in this area, all the electrical, plumbing, hydraulic and communications cabling are also in there so when you drop the pan you're going to have all sorts of stuff drop down, you'll have to make sure you don't pinch/cut anything when you secure everything again.
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:59 PM   #47
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I've lowered the edge of the pan where the fresh water & overflow drains are [the curb side], as mentioned before it is held in place by a strip of trim that runs the entire length of the pan. The sheet metal screws that hold it in place are placed proximately every 12 inches and go through the trim and the corrugated plastic and then into the I-beam frame. Each side of the pan is secured this way, the ends are also secured the same way. There are also sheet metal screws in the center though fewer, they are spaced further apart. I'e never dropped the entire pan just the edge where I needed to do repairs.
To put the pan back up you have to line up the existing holes in the trim and pan with the holes in the frame which can be problematic but not impossible.

Dropping the entire pan would take time and the biggest issue is just scooting around underneath the coach, if you did it on concrete with a crawler it would be easier. Be aware that not only are the water tanks contained in this area, all the electrical, plumbing, hydraulic and communications cabling are also in there so when you drop the pan you're going to have all sorts of stuff drop down, you'll have to make sure you don't pinch/cut anything when you secure everything again.
EXCELLENT information... thank you so much! With this information, I see no reason to drop the entire pan, but I can plan to drop enough to get a good visual of the layout, with photos for future reference. And also install the remote water sensor at the lowest point. I hope to be able to return the favor somewhere down the road!
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Old 05-28-2014, 03:10 PM   #48
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If I were to put a sensor in the belly under the tanks I'd probably put it near the fresh water drain, the overflow line is in the same area.
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Old 05-28-2014, 03:22 PM   #49
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If I were to put a sensor in the belly under the tanks I'd probably put it near the fresh water drain, the overflow line is in the same area.
I wouldn't want to put a high water alarm on the pan, unless there was some way to secure it and have an external shut off. It's pretty evident when you see water dripping out from the pan that you have a leak.
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Old 05-28-2014, 03:49 PM   #50
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the good news is that there shouldn't be any damage done by having water in the pan since there's no wood down there
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:27 PM   #51
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If I were to put a sensor in the belly under the tanks I'd probably put it near the fresh water drain, the overflow line is in the same area.
Thanks for this advice! The sensor will certainly have to be a remote, probably wired.
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Old 05-28-2014, 05:18 PM   #52
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Did I miss it? Is there a preferred sensor that folks are using?
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:46 PM   #53
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I have had the front belly pan of our 36RL completely off. It goes back to about the wheels, than the rear pan takes over. It was no big deal, but took a little time. Used a drill and socket. Some kind of jack of block to help hold it up might help, but I didn't use anything.
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:06 PM   #54
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I have had the front belly pan of our 36RL completely off. It goes back to about the wheels, than the rear pan takes over. It was no big deal, but took a little time. Used a drill and socket. Some kind of jack of block to help hold it up might help, but I didn't use anything.
Thanks, Roger... more good info!
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:09 PM   #55
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Did I miss it? Is there a preferred sensor that folks are using?
I just ordered one off Amazon that received 4.5 stars on 150 reviews. Six foot cable, so I'll mount the sensor under or near the FW tank, and the alarm in the upper wall of the garage (or basement-haven't decided what to call it yet).
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:06 AM   #56
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Those tanks may sweat a little and drip, and those sensors are sensative. Dont think I would mount too close to the tank or youmight spend some sleepless nights wondering after you get an alarm.
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:34 AM   #57
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Those tanks may sweat a little and drip, and those sensors are sensative. Dont think I would mount too close to the tank or youmight spend some sleepless nights wondering after you get an alarm.
Well if I sweat and drip, why wouldn't the tanks!?! Great point! Place low, but not too close. And be prepared to relocate the sensor, after calming down the neighbors. Got it! Thanks for a insightful analysis.
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:53 AM   #58
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hahaha can't pull a sweat myself in this Colorado climate, but I've woke up on travel a few times and could see the aluminum substructure of my redwood traced on the outside with water droplets as a result of the dew on the outside.
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