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Old 11-25-2016, 04:20 AM   #1
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Stability

How much problem are you having with shaking and stability? Have any of you installed the steadyfast or similar stability devices? We do not like all the shaking. Any ideas???
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Old 11-25-2016, 05:29 AM   #2
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I made this up as a quick fix for stability. Easy to make, cheap and easy on easy off.
It works fine for us weekend campers..



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Old 11-25-2016, 05:40 AM   #3
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How does that work?
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Old 11-25-2016, 06:12 AM   #4
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Not as good as jacks on both sides. But it was cheap, easy to make it works noticeably well and it goes on and off easy.


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Old 11-25-2016, 12:34 PM   #5
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I made this up as a quick fix for stability. Easy to make, cheap and easy on easy off.
It works fine for us weekend campers..




I like this easy set up. There have been others who have installed extra jacks in the rear that have also worked. The long overhang in the rear looks to be the culprit of the extra movement that folks have experienced.
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Old 11-25-2016, 01:47 PM   #6
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I too made a device very similar to the one Foxfire made. It helps some. I also did put one of the Steadyfast stabilizers on the rear of our RW. That also helps some. The thing that helps the most, I believe, is to minimize the amount that the jacks are extended. It's kind of pain but I made jack pads out of 2x10's. I screwed two together for each pad.
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Old 11-25-2016, 01:59 PM   #7
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I too made a device very similar to the one Foxfire made. It helps some. I also did put one of the Steadyfast stabilizers on the rear of our RW. That also helps some. The thing that helps the most, I believe, is to minimize the amount that the jacks are extended. It's kind of pain but I made jack pads out of 2x10's. I screwed two together for each pad.
This is definitely true. I've noticed that the more uneven the site is and the higher the leveling jacks were the more the rig shook. I also noticed when I put in the wheel locks between the wheels (when we will be there for an extended time) the rig doesn't shake as much.
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Old 11-25-2016, 01:59 PM   #8
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I installed the steadyfast stabilizers and the took out about 95% of the movement. Well worth the money
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Old 11-25-2016, 02:21 PM   #9
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I installed a set of retractable stabilizers just in front of the trailer hitch. There is a 2x2 piece of steel tubing there that looks like it was made for it. Install was about a 20 minute job. I used the manual ones as I don't put them down every time but they also make electric. As Bruce said, if I keep the jack legs short with some blocks underneath and then put the stabilizers down, the coach hardly moves at all.
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Old 11-25-2016, 02:22 PM   #10
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I keep a plastic tub full of 2x10 pieces in the back of the truck for the times when I need extras.
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Old 11-25-2016, 03:16 PM   #11
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There's always going to be some movement unless you build a block foundation under the rig. Look on the bright side.......for a little Friday night entertainment, put some heavy towels in the washer, put it on the spin cycle and enjoy the shake!

On the outside it looks like the rig is possessed
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Old 11-25-2016, 03:22 PM   #12
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As they say, "If this rig is rockin', don't bother knockin'."
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Old 11-25-2016, 04:22 PM   #13
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I installed a set of Lippert Electric Stabilizer jacks on our 2 years ago. I believe there is about 13 feet of Redwood hanging past the Rear Hydraulic jack legs. Movement was quite noticeable before I installed them. Either from someone walking in the coach, especially up front in the bedroom or when running the washer/dryer combo. Like Vaughan I installed just forward of the 'Boat Hitch' by the bumper. It is up and out of the way and higher than the hitch already there, so it did not create a lower drag point to be hit or scraped when going over something down the road. I installed the proper self resetting mini-breaker off of the charger bar by the batteries and ran the wiring all the way to the rear of the coach to a water resistant/ covered switch box. I just have to open the cover and extend or retract the jacks when needed. I believe it removes more than 95% of the wobble or movement in the coach. Like others have stated, the further your hydraulic jacks extend the more movement occurs. So I also use some big lumber under the lowest jack points. So even with the 6 point leveling I also use the rear electric jacks for a more stable coach.

Cost is rather high for most. Since I work at another SOB company I was able to purchase at oem cost and received a nice price break.

Looks like I will have to work on some light surface rust come spring. Didn't realize there was that much on the frame. This is on our 2012 36RL, and from being in Indiana they use salt on our winter roads so I guess some is expected.

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Old 11-25-2016, 06:26 PM   #14
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My set looks just like Chris's only no electric. I either use the crank, which isn't that big a deal, or use a electric drill. As Chris said, makes a huge difference.


Mine aren't Lippert, can't remember the brand off hand but got them on Amazon for around $130.00 There are 2 sizes, 24" and 30". Get the 30". I have the 24 and there are quite a few times I have to put blocks under them as I run out of stroke.
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Old 11-25-2016, 09:16 PM   #15
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As they say, "If this rig is rockin', don't bother knockin'."

That's RIGHT! We were really surprised how much the slide-in-slide moved during special times.
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Old 11-26-2016, 12:33 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by r time soon View Post
I installed a set of Lippert Electric Stabilizer jacks on our 2 years ago. I believe there is about 13 feet of Redwood hanging past the Rear Hydraulic jack legs. Movement was quite noticeable before I installed them. Either from someone walking in the coach, especially up front in the bedroom or when running the washer/dryer combo. Like Vaughan I installed just forward of the 'Boat Hitch' by the bumper. It is up and out of the way and higher than the hitch already there, so it did not create a lower drag point to be hit or scraped when going over something down the road. I installed the proper self resetting mini-breaker off of the charger bar by the batteries and ran the wiring all the way to the rear of the coach to a water resistant/ covered switch box. I just have to open the cover and extend or retract the jacks when needed. I believe it removes more than 95% of the wobble or movement in the coach. Like others have stated, the further your hydraulic jacks extend the more movement occurs. So I also use some big lumber under the lowest jack points. So even with the 6 point leveling I also use the rear electric jacks for a more stable coach.

Cost is rather high for most. Since I work at another SOB company I was able to purchase at oem cost and received a nice price break.

Looks like I will have to work on some light surface rust come spring. Didn't realize there was that much on the frame. This is on our 2012 36RL, and from being in Indiana they use salt on our winter roads so I guess some is expected.

Chris
R Time Soon I painted my hole frame a year ago with rust-oleum semi gloss when I first bought my rig and it still is rust free. I live at the beach so you can under stand my point. I used a one gallon can and used maybe half. on the hard to reach places I used a spray can and put 3 good coats on.
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Old 11-29-2016, 02:15 AM   #17
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I installed the Steady Fast System on my Redwood FL, been very happy with the results, very little movement even when the washing machine is on the spin cycle
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Old 12-04-2016, 04:38 AM   #18
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I installed the Steadyfast Stabilizers and to take care of the rear end I did exactly what Foxfire did with a jack on the rear. It took care of the bounce when we move around in the RV. Steadyfast Stabilizers work great for the major part of the RV and that extra jack in the rear hitch takes care of what they don't.
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Old 12-08-2016, 04:35 PM   #19
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I carry 6 by 6 blocks of wood about 12 inches long to put under all the jack points and we have no movement.
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