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Old 08-23-2014, 08:42 AM   #61
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Ken

X2 for me as well.....
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Old 08-23-2014, 09:50 AM   #62
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Ken,

I didn't have help so I tied a rope to the LBN, made sure the antenna couldn't unfold itself, then hoisted it up from the roof using the rear ladder as guide rail.

It actually worked well.
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Old 08-23-2014, 06:19 PM   #63
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We have dish network. We used the receiver from the spare bedroom and bought a winegard carryout automatic. Dish sent a tech to install He had to trace some wiring down in the coach but he knew what he was doing. Works great. I bought a 50ft extension so it gives me a 100ft radius of the coach to find 'the sweet spot'. I too have to call dish with an address of our location and we get the locals in about ten minutes.

Also, dish has an rv section when you call in.
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Old 08-24-2014, 12:25 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksaltman View Post
What I want to know is what's the best way to hoist the 50 pound antenna onto the roof. I am going to do the install as soon as the temperature cools off, but how do you all get the Travel'er antenna onto the roof?

Very Carefully!!! I would recommend that your lash a rope onto the package, making sure the rope cannot slip off the package. Then use the rear ladder or a 14 foot or 16 foot ladder to slide the package up to the roof.
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:04 AM   #65
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When we went full time, we took the dish and the dvr from our s&b. When we reached our first location, Dish sent out a tech who mounted the dish to a base, 2'x3' app., and have used it since. It took me a while to learn how to set it up but I now have the hang of it. I call Dish with our address, they tell me what to point to and we start watching tv.
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:30 AM   #66
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We have a Tripod and use the Dish HD so we have to hit 3 Satellites.
I have setup up the Tripod from the East Coast to the West Coast, no big deal, takes about 5 minutes to unload, unpack, setup, aim and then connect to coach.

From what I am told, Dish HD is a little harder to aim than Direct HD, but since we have never had Direct, I do not know if that is true or not.

Now that I have got the hang of it, I do not have any problem aiming and getting all 3 Dish Satellites.
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:36 AM   #67
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Thanks for all the help. Now if it would just cool down for a day or so I can get this done.
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:20 AM   #68
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Ken,

How are you getting into the ceiling? Are you pulling it down or just accessing through the vents?

Sorry to hear that is all messed up! It was such a nice design compared to what we had before.
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Old 08-24-2014, 02:31 PM   #69
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For the Dish install I don't think I'll need to get into the ceiling. I was hoping to mount the Solo node in the roof. What do you recommend?
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Old 08-24-2014, 02:49 PM   #70
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Ken,
Sorry, I thought I was actually responding on your AC issue - not sure how I landed here

Now that we are on the subject , If I was starting fresh I would have put the solo -node in the ceiling right below where the cables penetrate the roof. It can easily fit through one of the light fixture holes near the penetration, and because the original coaxes were too short to reach my antenna anyway, I had to use barrel connectors inside the ceiling to extend new coax out through the roof. It would have been cleaner just to use the solo node as the barrel connectors and have it all nice inside the ceiling with only the coax out on the roof top.

The reason I ended up with the solo node on the roof is I installed the Hopper after the fact, and I didn't feel like removing the goop on the roof to do it over
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:36 PM   #71
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I don't think I am able to access the roof penetration from a light, I already tried doing that when I was looking for the Winegard data cable. My roof penetration maybe in a different place given the 38FL.

I am planning on using the mighty Dremmel tool to carefully cut a larger hole in the roof to be able to slip the Solo node in, then replace the wood using metal brackets, use the plate provided with the Winegard to cover the hole then use a bunch of Lap Sealant to calk the heck out of it. Should be better than new when I'm done.

We're taking the RW on a run to Knoxville next week for a few days and hopefully the weather will improve so I can get this done when we return.

Wrt the a/c issue, just pulling down the vents provides access to the a/c ducting. To remove the vent just snap off the cover (a little scary but doable) then remove the 4 screws. Once out you'll see the gap between the ceiling and the a/c duct. Closing that off with silver metal tape stops any leakage as reported by someone on the other thread. RW Service fixed it on all our vents and said that is how other Crossroad brands are built and didn't know why Redwood doesn't do that anyway. FWIW, they also stuffed rags into the vent at the ends, then sealed the duct up but good with the silver metal tape directly after the vents in the front because the track continues after the vent for a couple of feet and then dead ends.
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:54 PM   #72
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Ah I forgot you were in a an FL, sorry. My RL has a light right next to the penetration.

My solo node ended on the roof, and no issues so far

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Old 08-24-2014, 05:02 PM   #73
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In case you do have issues. You can go to any electrical store and pick up up a bottle of no-ox. It will prevent ixidation on the coax ends which will he you downfall in the future
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:25 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksaltman View Post
Wrt the a/c issue, just pulling down the vents provides access to the a/c ducting. To remove the vent just snap off the cover (a little scary but doable) then remove the 4 screws. Once out you'll see the gap between the ceiling and the a/c duct. Closing that off with silver metal tape stops any leakage as reported by someone on the other thread. RW Service fixed it on all our vents and said that is how other Crossroad brands are built and didn't know why Redwood doesn't do that anyway. FWIW, they also stuffed rags into the vent at the ends, then sealed the duct up but good with the silver metal tape directly after the vents in the front because the track continues after the vent for a couple of feet and then dead ends.
Now I am confused, when I pull our vents down out of the ceiling it has a round plastic collar / sleeve that goes from the louvered vent up through the Duct.
Where exactly are they putting the silver foil tape?
Are they taping the sleeve to the duct to seal it?
Since the sleeve snaps onto the louvered vent it is hard to seal the sleeve to the duct through the vent louvers.
Then once the sleeve is taped to the duct, the louvered vent cannot be removed again.

One thing I recently did was to shorten all the vent sleeves, they are 1 5/8" long and the distance from the ceiling to the Duct is 1 1/4" so the additional sleeve that sticks up into the duct in effect blocks the air flow in the duct from vent to vent as the air must go around the 4 Inch sleeve sticking 1/2" up in the duct.
The trick to any A/C systems performance is air flow, reduced air flow makes the compressor work harder and reduced the cooling efficacy.

Will look at front vents and see about sealing the duct up after the front vents, makes no sense to pump cold air into a duct that goes nowhere.
Might also make sense to form an angle / diverter in the duct for the air at the end of the duct right above the last vent to help divert the air down into the front living area.
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:54 PM   #75
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Rob,

The vent itself is not taped in. The gap is between the duct and the ceiling. I'll try to get a picture of what they did and post it.

Ken
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:57 PM   #76
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Brad,

If you wanted to you could as an alternative heat shrink the coax cables to keep them a little more weather resistant.

Ken
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:08 PM   #77
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Rob,

The vent itself is not taped in. The gap is between the duct and the ceiling. I'll try to get a picture of what they did and post it.

Ken
Thanks Ken, I think I know what you are talking about now but a picture is worth a 1000 words.

Look forward to pictures of what they did.

The better sealing between the duct and the inside of the coach the better the system will work.
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:11 PM   #78
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Brad,

If you wanted to you could as an alternative heat shrink the coax cables to keep them a little more weather resistant.

Ken
Ya, I guess I still could, or even put those rubber boots on them like Dish uses.
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:33 AM   #79
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Ya, I guess I still could, or even put those rubber boots on them like Dish uses.
I shrunk heat tape on all of my exterior satellite connections.
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