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Old 07-20-2014, 07:43 PM   #61
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Got a call back from coach-net --- 24/7 support except on Sundays, I guess

Although I'm not in a real critical state since I'm not camping,
I actually started to fix it, but have been denied coverage on things before when 'someone else worked on it"
sad that I even have to think about fixing something that should have been fixed over 4 times ago.

nothing 12v works.... and honestly I don't WANT to use it since I'm unsure what won't work...
I do know the jacks / leveling won't,
I know the lights won't,
I assume the slides won't...

so it would be foolish to try to use it and cause a problem for us or others...

gotta run - mommas saying we need to go out - later - sorry for the sob story...

but think it's time some state the facts of their case...
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:51 PM   #62
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Sorry about the troubles John

I would go crazy - I couldn't hold myself back from checking it out. In fact, going crazy wanting to check yours out
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:47 PM   #63
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I always try to fix things myself (correctly) instead of waiting in line for someone else to fix it. I usually do better work.
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:48 PM   #64
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You might try to find someone in your area that works on golf carts. Don't know how long your cable is but they might be able to help you out.
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:55 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboytoo View Post
So, not being a 'lectrician, I can only go by the fitting and the cable in the pic...
the end says 4/0 on it and the cable is too fat to easily be pushed back in... so maybe it is 4/0 ???
If you are able to push any of the cable jacket into the lug, it is the wrong lug. The only thing that should fit into the lug is the copper only and your picture shows very little copper stripped back. Somewhere on the cable is an imprint showing the wire size. By code it has to be on there somewhere showing the temp rating, wire size and jacket type. It may be printed or just an imprint that is hard to read.
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:35 PM   #66
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I cannot log into the site that has a picture of the fuse box. Can you forward me a pic of the fusebox?
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:21 AM   #67
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ok -
I ended up fixing it myself since I didn't have power enough to raise the jacks...
I just trimmed some of the copper back enough to get it started into the lug and pushed it together then electrical taped it back together !

rerouted the cables so there was no 90 degree bends right at the connection like before and THAT part of it is fine now...

thank goodness my storage area has a 110-20 amp outlet so I could plug it in and recharge...

That cable is an baby anaconda - over half the size of our shore cable ! and to those that said it's not a 4/0

now to make another appointment to get it worked on!
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:16 AM   #68
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Johnboy - I had exactly the same problem when the coach was sitting in front of the house before heading South in January. Was hooked up to the truck for almost an hour and no power.

You can raise the front jacks with an electric drill and hex bit to operate the pump. The manual valve for the front jacks is in one of the propane compartments at the top of the jack. It requires an Allen Key to open.

I eventually found the problem with the cable from the truck was some mud blocking a couple of the pins.
Also, some older cables from the TV may not have a 12V pin which i believe is needed to charge the battery. Also, there is a label on our hydraulic resevoir stating that in emergencies, you can hook up battery cables from your TV directly to the pump on top of the reservoir. (make sure + cable to + side of pump)

THe truck cable hooked up to the trailer worked for us after idling for 5-10 minutes.

As far as power drain, i seem to remember from other posts that there is power draw from other things besides the fridge.
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:52 PM   #69
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JB ...from where I sit, the top of the cables in your picture show a little discoloration. It may just be the quality of the pic. However, if the cable was overheated, which it appears to have been, get it replaced.
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:54 PM   #70
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Thanks !
I was worried about that too,
but it scratched off and seems to be paint over spray
(inside the cabinet ?!? that's another mystery )

and hopefully, the 2013 F350 has a charge line too.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:22 PM   #71
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The Ford has a 12v supply through your 7 pin connector but your ignition switch must be in the on position. Chev/Gmc and Dodges apparently keep their 12v active with the switch off.

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Old 08-28-2014, 12:09 AM   #72
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I have the same issue. Batteries drain even when switch is turned off. Camping World in Colfax, NC says the switch is bad. I don't believe them, but we'll see if that fixes the problem, which first appeared 3 weeks after delivery!
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:53 AM   #73
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I have the same issue. Batteries drain even when switch is turned off. Camping World in Colfax, NC says the switch is bad. I don't believe them, but we'll see if that fixes the problem, which first appeared 3 weeks after delivery!
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The switch is probably not bad, it's probably the way the factory wired it. We've all been having that problem and many of us have had the switch re-wired, either by the Service Center or at the Redwood Rally by Service Center employees. I was told when my 31SL was at the Service Center in April that they were going to start wiring the switch differently but I'm not sure it has been implemented yet.
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Old 08-28-2014, 04:08 AM   #74
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Ours had to be rewired also. Redwood sent instructions to the dealer.
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:02 AM   #75
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Mine was rewired at the service center. Now the cutoff switch actually cuts everything off. The down side is that it cuts off the emergency break away brake power so I have to be very careful to make sure the battery cut off is in the ON position when I tow.
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Old 08-28-2014, 01:44 PM   #76
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I don't see the downside to a full cutoff and can't quite understand how you could turn batteries off when towing by accident....... You've got to have battery power to raise the jacks.

I modified mine a couple years ago when I looked in the compartment and saw how it was wired and thought to my self " what idiot designed it this way"
I went one step further and put a second battery switch in so that I can isolate both batteries. If I know I'm going to be somewhere that there will be a battery draw I take battery 2 off line so that it's fresh when I need it next morning. I have group 31's
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Old 08-28-2014, 02:16 PM   #77
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Vaughan,

Good point about the jacks.

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Old 08-28-2014, 02:29 PM   #78
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I don't see the downside to a full cutoff and can't quite understand how you could turn batteries off when towing by accident....... You've got to have battery power to raise the jacks.

I modified mine a couple years ago when I looked in the compartment and saw how it was wired and thought to my self " what idiot designed it this way"
I went one step further and put a second battery switch in so that I can isolate both batteries. If I know I'm going to be somewhere that there will be a battery draw I take battery 2 off line so that it's fresh when I need it next morning. I have group 31's
That's exactly what I told them at the Service Center when they couldn't figure out why the way the switch was wired was a problem. They said that Redwood wanted to make sure that your emergency brake was always hot so you couldn't accidentally go down the road without power to it. I explained to them, "How could I go down the road without power to the breakaway switch if I was forced to turn the battery switch on to raise and lower my jacks for hitching up?" They thought about it, agreed with me, contacted the factory and worked out the solution. If people are still having problems they need to contact the Service Center and get the solution.
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:22 PM   #79
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Wonder if its an RVIA requirement?
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:47 PM   #80
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That's exactly what I told them at the Service Center when they couldn't figure out why the way the switch was wired was a problem. They said that Redwood wanted to make sure that your emergency brake was always hot so you couldn't accidentally go down the road without power to it. I explained to them, "How could I go down the road without power to the breakaway switch if I was forced to turn the battery switch on to raise and lower my jacks for hitching up?" They thought about it, agreed with me, contacted the factory and worked out the solution. If people are still having problems they need to contact the Service Center and get the solution.
I have called RW customer service but I never get anyone that has in depth knowledge of the cutoff switch issue. Does the service center have an other phone number?
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