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Old 01-28-2015, 02:24 AM   #21
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Do you have the lead acid still
If so how do you seal the boxes for the vent tube
The strap would be way better than the screws
The way they run the cables tying the battery's together is a PITA. You need to be a contortionist to try and lift the covers and unbolt the cables at the same time
If I still had the old batteries I would cut slots into the holes that the wires go through and then seal them. That way the cover will lift straight off making it easier to access
I believe there is some foam tape to seal the top to the bottom. So when the strap is cinched tight, all is good. As far as the cables go, I just pinch them through the seal
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Old 01-28-2015, 03:29 AM   #22
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After trying to get into the battery boxes and trying to fight my way to sneak my way into the boxes with a wrench, I've decided to have a plastic box welded up that will hold both batteries. Then it will be a simple task to get to the batteries to check levels.
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Old 01-29-2015, 02:29 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane Wood View Post
Do you have the lead acid still
If so how do you seal the boxes for the vent tube
The strap would be way better than the screws
The way they run the cables tying the battery's together is a PITA. You need to be a contortionist to try and lift the covers and unbolt the cables at the same time
If I still had the old batteries I would cut slots into the holes that the wires go through and then seal them. That way the cover will lift straight off making it easier to access
Shane,
I was thinking the same thing. I thought about cutting slots where the holes are and like you said I could just lift off the covers to services the batteries. We'll see how it goes.


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Old 01-29-2015, 02:43 AM   #24
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Dan
If you put Vasaline on the cables where the slots are cut you would be able to silicone around the slots an it will not stick this will give you a flexible rubber seal
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Old 01-29-2015, 03:14 AM   #25
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Dan
If you put Vasaline on the cables where the slots are cut you would be able to silicone around the slots an it will not stick this will give you a flexible rubber seal
Thanks Shane, that is a good idea
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:02 PM   #26
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Thanks Shane, that is a good idea
Dan. Did you cut the slots in your battery covers and create a grommet-like silicone seal? If so, how did it work to make maintenance access simpler? Day you have photos? I'm 74 and small. I tried, but on my initial attempt, I haven't even been able to lift the top on the front box enough to check the fluid level.
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:54 AM   #27
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No I never did get to it. Got busy selling our home and moving into a new one.
I'm sure you should find some good ideas here on this forum.
Good luck,
Dan
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:28 PM   #28
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I suggest you get a set of these Flow rite battery watering kits
and next time you are in there connect them to the batteries and never have to take the covers off again !

Our coach came with a set of 4 L16's that are NOT going to be moved by humans and this makes it easy to add water.

Here's some you tube stuff on it.
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Old 02-12-2017, 04:08 AM   #29
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I've had two maintenance free Interstate batteries in my 2013 since new. I have yet to have to add water to either one.

Mark
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Old 02-12-2017, 04:09 AM   #30
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I have these on our batteries in the RW and they work great.
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:56 PM   #31
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I've had two maintenance free Interstate batteries in my 2013 since new. I have yet to have to add water to either one.

Mark
Dang, I missed this the first time through and have to give kudos to you Mark for slipping that past us...

you didn't have to add water to maintenance free batteries
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:10 PM   #32
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Last week I had to move my rig out of storage and found the batteries were dead as a door nail. Even after hooking up to my truck, it took several minutes before I could get enough juice to the batteries for the 6-point levelers to lower the rig onto my truck.

With my previous TT, it was a simple process to open the battery case by removing the strap and pulling out the battery to take home and put on my battery tender. When I looked to do the same with my RW, I found two boxes with lids that appear to be screwed down.

What is the best way to charge up the batteries prior to a trip since I don't have power at the storage area? I did purchase a regular battery charger for emergencies, but I can't even figure out the best way to hook it up.

Do I just take out the Phillips-head screws that appear to be holding the box covers on? Do I need to take both batteries out in order to get them charged up before my next trip?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Steve
My original batteries died within months of owing the unit so I replaced them and the boxes they were in to Marine cases with straps, easy to get into and service them.
Had to also install a second cut off switch otherwise batteries will be drained if ever parked for awhile.
Unit originally was dead when it was dropped for service at dealer as they did not cut both switches off, imagine that. The mechanic showed me that you can charge \ jump the batteries if you have a generator using the Power terminal on the generator and hooking the ground side to the generator frame, thereby not having to remove all those pesky screws.
He shot a quick charge to the batteries using that very same hook up, and it powered the batteries enough for us to raise legs and do some other things and he told us that while riding to the CG the batteries would charge normally. They did not charge like he said as in shooting the quick charge to the batteries, he blew the 200 amp fuse on the back wall of the mechanical compartment. This caused us other problems that weekend as the fridge would not work on its own circuit, and had to be run via extension cord. Once the fuse was replaced everything worked.
Have never had to jump or charge the batteries since then, but on reading this post thought this might help you.
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