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Old 10-15-2013, 07:14 AM   #21
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The one time I've empty my tanks I did notice that unless I pull up and have the drain side lower, it does drain slowly and for a long time after the initial rush...

guess I could use the levelors to raise the other side

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Old 10-15-2013, 07:25 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboytoo
The one time I've empty my tanks I did notice that unless I pull up and have the drain side lower, it does drain slowly and for a long time after the initial rush...

guess I could use the levelors to raise the other side
Some Parks require you to use the slinky levelers, I have it for the same reason as you, not for looks.
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:17 AM   #23
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[/QUOTE] That sounds kind of weird. Have you seen a picture of what the flush actually looks like? There is nothing that could stop the flow necessarily. [/QUOTE]
I haven't seen the picture. Is it on the Redwood site?
I have mine set up in a semi-permanent fashion at my campground. I use a short piece of Rhino hose to adapt to a solid pipe to go into the sewer connection. I also have a clear 45 elbow attached to the coach sewer outlet. When I open the black valve, I see the normal rush of water. After the tank has drained for a while, I connect a hose to the tank flush and turn on the water. Water begins to flow as I would expect, but twice now, I have noticed it stop flowing through the clear elbow, but I can hear the water still running into the tank. After a pause of a minute or so, I get another rush of water similar to the first time I opened the Black valve and it will continue until the flow is clear. I suspect that paper is being washed to the tank outlet and clogs it temporarily. My concern is what may happen if the buildup of water in the tank cannot force the clog to move. The first time I thought it was just a rare occurrence, but it did it again the very next time. Hoping it won't become a real problem later.
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:36 AM   #24
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Some modifications I have made to my 38GK:
1) Installed dimmer switches on both sides of the bed to control the lights
2) Reversed the W/D closet door to open toward the bedroom. We use it as a closet, no W/D.
3) Removed the panel on the passenger side of the closet (the one the door slid behind), to gain easy access to the 22 inches of closet area behind it. True, we cannot completely close the closet off now, but we leave the doors open all the time anyway because of the heat buildup. Also, we can now see the decorative tree on the closet door all the time.
4) Installed a towel bar under the medicine cabinet in the bedroom
5) Installed robe hooks on both sides of the shower in the hallway.
6) Installed a vent deflector over the heat vent behind the toilet.


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Old 10-15-2013, 12:58 PM   #25
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Pictures Will !
I have to keep up with the Joneses

Is the dimmer switch a 12v or 110 v dimmer or does it matter ?


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Old 10-15-2013, 01:36 PM   #26
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John,
How do I post Pix?
The dimmer is a 12V. I'm sure it does matter. It is made by Diamond Group. It is almost the same size as the double switch from the factory. However, both lights are now controlled by one switch.


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Old 10-15-2013, 02:55 PM   #27
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Ah, that's right, this is the only site of about 10 I frequent that really doesn't like pics

I sent u a pm... thanks !


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Old 10-15-2013, 03:21 PM   #28
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When I dump my black tank, I hook up the flush hose, open the tank drain, and turn the water on for the flush hose. It helps flush the tank as it drains. If the trailer isn't perfectly level or tilt towards the flush side, the tank won't completely drain. There will still be some sludge opposite the drain side.
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:07 AM   #29
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Some great info here guys! My redwood is in make ready, it should be ready for pick up on Tuesday! I have the 2014 rw38GK. I am hoping I won't have any of these issues especially since it takes my dealer 2 weeks to go through her! I will post pics when I get her home!
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:16 AM   #30
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Welcome to the forum. Hope it goes well.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:44 AM   #31
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Welcome !

I'll bet I can guess the dealer too )

they took 31 days for my pdi and it's back now with some of the same issues going on two weeks now...




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Old 10-16-2013, 10:14 AM   #32
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Lol, explore USA,in Denton and my father is an rvsa so if they don't get it right he will. But I visited there service department seemed Like a good crew minus 2 younger chaps behind the desk that I didn't speak to they just appeared off in their mannerism... Anyway not trying to take over this thread!
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:05 PM   #33
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A few more mods and additions:
1) added a towel ring next to the fridge
2) removed the towel rack from cooktop. ( we don't have the gas oven, and a towel interferes with opening the drawers)
3) added a towel ring in the WC near the sink
4) reversed the door opening on the cabinet between the bedroom TV and the bedroom sink so it opens toward the TV. DW plugs in hair dryer in that cabinet, so it's much easier to reach now.
5) removed the bedroom door. It's always open anyway, and it creates a much more open space
6) installed MaxAir vents over the hall vent and the WC vent
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:19 PM   #34
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Hd the max airs put on as part of the deal and the dealer mounted it such that the tv antenna wouldn't rotate fully - did yours stop the rotation ?
(but the worst part is it pulled the cover off the antenna feed down into the roof and probably leaked...)
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:34 PM   #35
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I'm hooked to cable so I haven't tried the antenna yet. On mine, there is really only one way to install them correctly so it may be a trade off to have the vents or not. But I will check mine tomorrow to see if the antenna hits it. Wouldn't want to create a problem if and when I need to use the antenna. Edited by: Willranless
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:36 PM   #36
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I did have the http://www.maxxair.com/products/fan_mate.php BIG fan covers for the fantastic fans - a smaller cover might be ok when rotating the antenna...
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:12 PM   #37
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Last night I noticed water running out from under the island. I took out a drawer and could hear water spraying behind the spice rack. The ice maker line had a tiny pin hole in it. I repaired it with a 1/4 inch compression coupling. It looks like the plastic line may have been pinched at some time and weakened it.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:16 AM   #38
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Good find!
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:24 AM   #39
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True. I consider myself fortunate that it was in an easy location to reach and that we found it early.
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:43 PM   #40
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After two months of sleeping on the European box spring, we decided it was time get rid of it because it is just not comfortable. The way I fixed it is similar to what others have done - I overlaid the frame with 3/4 inch cabinet grade plywood. However, because the middle of the frame is lower than the edge, I flipped the frame to get a flat surface. This meant removing the slats and prying the plastic retainers out, (which broke most of the retainers tabs off), but we had no intention of ever reusing them anyway. I also discovered that the metal frame was 58" x 74". Our TempurPedic queen mattress is 60 x 80, so I cut the plywood to give me a 60 x 77 surface. (two pieces cut 30 x 77 with a seam in the middle of the frame) This still allows room for the slide to come in without hitting the cabinet. The bed is a lot more comfortable and feels quite a bit larger with just those few extra inches on the length and width.
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