Inverter installation

[hank_moses]

Hey everybody. I'm looking for the experts to weigh in on the way
I plan on installing a 1500 watt inverter that will be dedicated to
running the new residential fridge that we just installed. Below is a
sketch of how we plan to set everything up. Seems like it would work.
Anybody's 2 cents, er.. I mean 2 $ (due to inflation), would be appreciated.

[hoosierguy]

That should work fine as long as your coach is connected to shore power or when you are towing. Make sure the tow vehicle wiring is actually aloowing for charging the coach batteries. When neither condition applies, you will have limited time until the batteries are discharged to a point that the inverter does not have sufficient battery input to maintain the output to the refrigerator.

[mhs4771]

You would be much better off with an Inverter that has a pass-through for 120 shore power. Our Inverter has two inputs: 12VDC and 120VAC, with an internal Transfer Switch. When on Shore Power 120 is passed through the Transfer Switch to the Fridge and the Inverter goes into a Standby Condition. When Shore power is disconnected the Inverter kicks in and supplies 120V through the Xfer Switch to the Fridge.
The setup you have drawn will be drawing power out of your Batteries all the time, granted the Converter will be charging the batteries but it makes for an inefficient setup. But if you already have the Inverter, I guess you use what you have.

[hank_moses]

Originally Posted by hoosierguy

That should work fine as long as your coach is connected to shore power or when you are towing. Make sure the tow vehicle wiring is actually aloowing for charging the coach batteries. When neither condition applies, you will have limited time until the batteries are discharged to a point that the inverter does not have sufficient battery input to maintain the output to the refrigerator.

Thank you guy. I recently purchased a 2024 ram 3500. Traded in my 2011 F-450.
I know the ford did supply power while towing, but I will connect ram to see if it
charges while towing.

Regards

[hank_moses]

Thanks Michelle & Ann.
Yes, I have already purchased the inverter with just the 12 volt input. I was
simply trying to keep things simple. I did add a third battery to keep charge
up, and the fridge should be the only draw on the batteries while moving.

Regards

[XCMARK]

I will jump in also , in my case I have found the truck is really only able to supply about 4~6 amps at 12.6 volts. The voltage drop from the truck wireing and the trailer has proven to really limit the current at a high enough voltage its suitable for the batterys to accept a charge. I would suggest installing a Victron Orion in the trailer close to the battery. Its able to take 10 volts DC and boost it up to 13.6~14.6 volts DC and put out 18 amps at that voltage.
https://expion360.com/products/victr...yABEgJVIPD_BwE

I would also suggest a Victron multi plus II inverter. Its wired in line with your incoming power cord and is able to supply 3000 watts at 120 volt to your RV from the battery and its able to supplement utility power, say you're a friend's house and you have a regular outlet at 15 amps. Thats no problem the inverter supply's an additional 3000 watts if you want to run the 2nd AC from the batteries. Once the load drops down below the amps you set it to (from 9.5 amps up to 50 amps) the battery charger comes back on and starts charging. We can travel down the road turn on our AC unit via the Micro air Bluetooth APP and have the AC running hours before we pull into our campground. I know this is more money but the forward compatibility is unlimited! Adding Solar , Lithium battery ( can be programed for any charge voltage) ,multible inverters to run two AC units is all possible . happy to help if your interested. Honestly the first step is to install a battery monitoring system , You dont want to use the meter the trailer has built into the control panel those things are very poor at best.
https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energ...effe1c94a52e49

https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energ...ps%2C57&sr=8-8

[hank_moses]

Thanks Mark

I could check and calculate voltage drop based on RV and truck wiring, but
for peace of mind, and inexpensive cost of the booster, I totally agree with
you. Also the batt monitor is a must. Just ordered both of those. Like I
stated above. I was just trying to keep things simple by installing a pure sine wave inverter to be dedicated to the fridge only.
As far as the 3000 watt inverter, sounds like a great plan for me. I used to keep my fingers crossed every time I hooked into shore power at some rv
park because of fluctuations in the parks power, so I installed an EMS Smart
surge protector, and am wondering would the 3000 watt inverter go before
that system or someplace after.
Thank for that great info. I wished RV manufacturers would consider these as
options they could provide to customers.
BTW I've recorded 89 volts on the digital monitor at one RV park I stayed in
once when the system shut power to RV to protect it. That event lasted over an hour. Couldn't wait to get outta there.

Regards

[XCMARK]

With Regards to the 89 volt lock out , Do you have an auto transformer to boost the voltage? The Hughes auto transformer can boost up to 12 volts and it adjust the level of boost in two steps. We stay at a place in Maine that has voltage drop problems on hot days. I end up using solar and my inverter to run the AC, once the sun starts to get low in the sky then swap back to utility power. 89 Volts is very low and should avoid running anything expensive ( AC , Refrigerator, TV, ECT.)