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Old 08-23-2015, 11:05 PM   #61
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Gary
Is your right front the front curbside stabilizer. What support bar are you talking about. The jack leg?
Thanks
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Old 08-24-2015, 12:41 AM   #62
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Gary, I think you might be on to something. Our entry door works fine in our 2010 36RL. But for others having a problem it could be due to when and how the entry door is installed. Redwood and lots of other 5th wheel manufacturers use a tripod for the front and dollies for the rear tires when going down the assembly line. Install the door along with everything else. Once unhooked from the truck and using the front jack legs probably with or without the rear legs cause a different flex in the frame than it would being on the king pin or tripod to support the weight. Thinking this could be the problem. People are still having body cracks under their front slide outs. Ours was repaired before we bought our 2 year old unit. If frame flex causes body cracks why wouldn't it effect door squareness or rubbing?

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Old 08-24-2015, 02:28 PM   #63
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Gary, I think you might be on to something. Our entry door works fine in our 2010 36RL. But for others having a problem it could be due to when and how the entry door is installed. Redwood and lots of other 5th wheel manufacturers use a tripod for the front and dollies for the rear tires when going down the assembly line. Install the door along with everything else. Once unhooked from the truck and using the front jack legs probably with or without the rear legs cause a different flex in the frame than it would being on the king pin or tripod to support the weight. Thinking this could be the problem. People are still having body cracks under their front slide outs. Ours was repaired before we bought our 2 year old unit. If frame flex causes body cracks why wouldn't it effect door squareness or rubbing?

Chris
Chris
You have a 2010 unit? I didn't realize that they made them that early. if yours is a '10, it has the be the earliest unit I have seen on here.
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Old 08-24-2015, 03:26 PM   #64
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Sorry. It is a 2012. I didn't notice that when I posted.

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Old 08-24-2015, 04:15 PM   #65
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Gary
Is your right front the front curbside stabilizer. What support bar are you talking about. The jack leg?
Thanks
Sorry about terminology. Support bar, jack leg,....it's one of the 6 or so support points. It's part of the leveling system that supports the RV and ensures it is level.

Don't know the term "curbside stabilizer". So we're clear on which right side we're talking about. I was told it was the bar/jack leg on the front, same side as the stove and fridge.

Hope that helps clarify.

Also, keep in mind, the guy isn't saying to put a 2" block down "before" you start the auto leveling process. After the auto level process has completed, then jack up the single, front corner (same side as fridge), then put the 2" block under the support bar/jack leg.
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:21 PM   #66
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Thanks for the info
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:02 PM   #67
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Sorry about terminology. Support bar, jack leg,....it's one of the 6 or so support points. It's part of the leveling system that supports the RV and ensures it is level.

Don't know the term "curbside stabilizer". So we're clear on which right side we're talking about. I was told it was the bar/jack leg on the front, same side as the stove and fridge.

Hope that helps clarify.

Also, keep in mind, the guy isn't saying to put a 2" block down "before" you start the auto leveling process. After the auto level process has completed, then jack up the single, front corner (same side as fridge), then put the 2" block under the support bar/jack leg.
I seem to be missing something here. First off, I didn't realize you could jack up only one leg, but I've never tried it. Assuming you can, why not wait until the auto level is done and extend that one leg another 2 inches? Wouldn't that accomplish the same thing?
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:26 PM   #68
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I see what you are saying, you level, then jack up the front right with another Jack and set a 2" block underneath.

If that is truly the issue, it would seam you could compensate for that in the autolevel settings. I'm not familiar enough with the details of programming it.
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:35 PM   #69
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I see what you are saying, you level, then jack up the front right with another Jack and set a 2" block underneath.

If that is truly the issue, it would seam you could compensate for that in the autolevel settings. I'm not familiar enough with the details of programming it.
Wow, if I had to go through all that each time I set up camp, I would seriously be looking for another rig. One of the things I really like is the "auto Level" not "auto level" and then re-level or un-level! Sounds like you would b back to the old style electric jack leveling.
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:59 PM   #70
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Wow, if I had to go through all that each time I set up camp, I would seriously be looking for another rig. One of the things I really like is the "auto Level" not "auto level" and then re-level or un-level! Sounds like you would b back to the old style electric jack leveling.
That would drive me crazy too! I'd install a roll door and call it a day!
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:01 PM   #71
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I see what you are saying, you level, then jack up the front right with another Jack and set a 2" block underneath.

If that is truly the issue, it would seam you could compensate for that in the autolevel settings. I'm not familiar enough with the details of programming it.
That is my understanding of what the guy did.

I'm not condoning this or suggesting it as a long term solution. I'm just sharing the solution one other Redwood owner says has fixed his door jam problem; along with 4 additional Redwood owners.
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:04 PM   #72
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Ya I understand. Wonder how the guy figured that out. Pretty ingenious.
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:36 PM   #73
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I will have to Try this and see if it fixes the issue. I noticed that our does not rub as much if I have blocks under the front jacks.
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:58 PM   #74
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If all of this has to be done in order to work the door, then there's too much frame flex. Redwood really hasn't had a major frame issue up to this point so I seriously doubt if this is the answer to the problem. If it is the solution.....there's more problems under the skin that can't be seen.
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Old 08-24-2015, 11:43 PM   #75
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I agree with Rick if I had to do this for a door problem
I would also get rid of it. Redwood will fix the door. Then you can use your level up the way it should be used. I also use a 4 ft level to double check the level up to see if and when it needs calibrating. So far it levels properly
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:17 AM   #76
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Important update on doors jamming!

Spoke to a fellow Redwood owner last night (he has a 2015 39MB) who had the same problem as many of us; door jams and won't open or close properly. He told me that replacing the door wouldn't fix the issue. He and 4 other Redwood owners have fixed the same problem by adjusting the level of the RV. They believe it's a problem with the leveling system. On a flat surface, once the leveling system says it's complete, they've jacked up the front right corner and placed a 2" block under the support bar. About 2 hours later he says the problem is fixed. Root cause they believe is an improperly working level system that causes the frame to be slightly crooked. Once the 2" block is added, the RV is more level and therefore the crooked RV and door frame is now straight.

This theory also seems to explain why the condensation from my two AC units only drain on one side of the RV.

Having this fix the door problem for 5 Redwoods seems to build some credibility for the solution.

I'll be checking with the dealer and Redwood about this tomorrow.

Thoughts?
That would mean the door is only meant to be opened when the trailer is level. So when you are parked next to the road or in a parking lot, maybe in your driveway you must level it for the door to clear and function properly? Don't agree at all. And if the level system is not getting the trailer level it needs to be calibrated not shimmed up. Sorry not buying it.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:29 AM   #77
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If all of this has to be done in order to work the door, then there's too much frame flex. Redwood really hasn't had a major frame issue up to this point so I seriously doubt if this is the answer to the problem. If it is the solution.....there's more problems under the skin that can't be seen.
Totally agree! I didn't pay for a Redwood with a level up system to turn around and have to unlevel it to make my door work properly. I'm thinking this issue has only come up since the new doors are being installed. So far Ihave not had an issue with my 2013 model.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:39 AM   #78
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SO... is it possible then that the door was installed BEFORE the levelup was "zeroed" or leveled at the factory? If I go out and re-level mine manually, with an eye to checking if my door starts operating properly... THEN recalibrate "level" on the levelup, would this not fix it?? Our door has never worked properly, and it's true, sometimes it seems much worse than other times, which could easily be a change in "true" from moving the trailer. GOOD GOD. I am going to try this.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:57 AM   #79
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The only way my bedroom slide would close without us pushing was to wait until the trailer was hooked up to the truck and the jacks were off the ground. Hoping it's cured. Sounds like frame flex though.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:58 AM   #80
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SO, IS frame flex fixable?
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