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Old 06-28-2016, 01:14 AM   #101
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Okay, my procedure for removing the Chinese inner bearing race for replacement with Timken bearings is super inefficient. With just the races in the hub, I used a chisel and a hammer from the outside to the inside of the hub. After about three hours each on two hubs, I got the old races out. I used an alternating tapping procedure (top, bottom, right, left) to work the races out. This was a pain. The outside races came out in about five minutes each.

1. Is there a faster method?
2. Would heating the hub near the races help?
3. If the bearings and races were being replaced in order to go American, could the Chinese races be left in and just the bearings replaced?

I am half way done. Two wheels done and two to go. Can you offer some tips on how to reduce the time to remove the inner races?

One thing I did that help out with reinstallation, was to grind down the outside of the old race and use this to push in the new race. You just need to grind off enough so that the old race doesn't get stuck in the hub again.
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Old 06-28-2016, 02:54 AM   #102
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I saw someone posted the following bearing and seal info for disc brake set-up. Does anyone know the numbers for the drum set-up? Thanks

Here are the Timken numbers for 7K axles with factory disc brakes:

Inner Bearing: 25580
Inner Race: 25520
Outer Bearing: 02475
Outer Race: 02420

Grease Seals: SKF 22558 (SKF bought Chicago Rawhide)
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Old 06-28-2016, 03:35 AM   #103
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I bought a race & seal installer (remover) kit from Amazon for $27.
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Old 06-29-2016, 02:00 PM   #104
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"easy Lub" axles?

My rig is a 2015 Sequoia 38HRL. I have 7000 lb axles. The hub cover has a removable center cap and the grease cup behind it has a removable rubber plug with a Zerks fitting in the axle end. Is this a lippert copy of the Dexter EZ Lube axle? I can't find any reference to it on the Lippert web site. If it is the same as the Dexter product, the fitting is used to regrease the axle barrings without removing the hub. There is a maintenance video on the Dexter site.
Anyone have experience with this axle?
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Old 06-29-2016, 02:34 PM   #105
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There are a lot of posts with having problems with the Lippert 7,000 # Easy Lube axles. My advise is to not use the grease zerks. To many times it just blows the grease past the cheap grease seal and you end up with poor brakes, no brakes, and failures that you can't imagine. Those who full time pay a lot of attention to the maintenance of their bearings, etc and inspect and repack by hand. Way too many failures. While it looks like an easy way to do it, most of the time it fails. If you have a boat trailer with similar axles with grease zerks, use it there. Not on the heavy Redwoods and similar trailers.

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Old 06-29-2016, 02:39 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobie16 View Post
My rig is a 2015 Sequoia 38HRL. I have 7000 lb axles. The hub cover has a removable center cap and the grease cup behind it has a removable rubber plug with a Zerks fitting in the axle end. Is this a lippert copy of the Dexter EZ Lube axle? I can't find any reference to it on the Lippert web site. If it is the same as the Dexter product, the fitting is used to regrease the axle barrings without removing the hub. There is a maintenance video on the Dexter site.
Anyone have experience with this axle?
I also had the Lippert Easy Lube with 7,000# axles with the rubber covered grease fitting. Our local folks doing their annual maintenance on our Redwood over greased the bearings causing the rear bearing seals to leak grease into the drum brakes. One brake caught fire which I caught just in time. As the four drum brakes were grease soaked I had them replaced with Titan disc brakes from Titan Guy (on this form). He hand packs the bearings.

If your drum brakes are okay you could use the Zerk fitting to CAREFULLY lube your wheel bearings. I believe there is a Lippert Service bulletin on the recommended method for using the Easy Lube Zerk fitting. Go easy. The grease gun pressure can easily blow the seals leading to brake failure. I recommend hand packing only and is a good time to inspect/clean the drum and brake assembly and nearby shackle links and leaf spring bushings. They also have Zerk fittings and require service.
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Old 06-29-2016, 05:52 PM   #107
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I agree, PACK DON'T PUMP! Not to mention by pumping you're filling that huge void between the 2 sets of bearings which does absolutely nothing except waste a tube of grease..
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:17 PM   #108
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found the Lippert Procedure

I agree with most of the previous posts that is best to inspect and hand pack; just thought a careful use of the grease fitting between services would help.
I just located the Lippert procedure for using the grease fitting I have attached the PDF. It is essentially the same as the Dexter procedure
Attached Files
File Type: pdf TI___213_Procedure_For_Lubricating_The_Superlube_Hub.pdf (426.1 KB, 41 views)
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:08 PM   #109
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There is nothing like watching your tire and wheel leave your trailer while driving down the interstate. I bought mine new last year. Besides the rally last year, only one other short weekend outing due to an injury. On my way to this year's rally ended up sitting along interstate I55 just north of Springfield, Illinois for 6 hours. FYI no mobile repair in that area. Semi mechanic was it. Unknown how a spinal nut can come off. Like other post have said, looks like the drum was heating up. Mechanic stated that what he thinks was a cheaper roll type of cotter pin broke. Found the tire a couple hundred feet from the road and was ok. Made it to the rally and everyone was turned in for the night. Safe travels. PS. Leaving mine at morryde till they can get it in and come back for it.
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