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Old 04-03-2014, 05:52 PM   #21
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Can someone come up with a picture and a description on how this switch works, and wired?

Thanks, Mark
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:07 PM   #22
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I found the battery drain problem when I left the Redwood plugged in to 110V power and I switched off the battery disconnect, batteries were flat in a month or so. I suspect that the drain was coming from the hydraulics and the jack control panel which are wired to bypass the disconnect switch. On the other Redwood forum there is a drawing of the fuse block behind the batteries on the wall (it's in the forum's manuals section) that shows the wring, I changed the wiring to and from the battery disconnect to completely disconnect the batts using the information on the diagram, no more battery drain when the batts are disconnected.
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Old 04-04-2014, 04:17 PM   #23
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Did you give any consideration to the break away switch for the batteries? I suppose the risk would be if you accidently left the master switch off while traveling you wouldn't have the breakaway.
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:15 PM   #24
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Yes, I considered that possibility, but when we pack up to move from one site to another we disconnect all services including electricity before we hook up the trailer to the TV. If I left the disconnect switch in the off position I couldn't retract the slides or the jacks or lift/lower the front end of the RV to hitch up, that's my check. As for turning off the disconnect switch while the truck is connected to the RV (say for an overnight stop) I haven't tried to open the RV front door, on our previous RV there wasn't enough clearance to do this, and on an overnight stop I wouldn't disconnect the batts anyways. Again, I couldn't see stopping on an overnight basis without either opening at least the main slides or dropping the stabilizing jacks. If I was to shut off the batt disconnect however, I couldn't retract to get back on the road.
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:27 PM   #25
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I agree, I was trying to go through my mind to see if there was ever a time I might be running with the switch off. The only time I ever use it is for storage.
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:56 PM   #26
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One more thought, I'm not 100% sure (I didn't check since I've re-wired) but I believe that you can use the hydraulics for the slides and jacks with the batt switch disconnected since these circuits bypass the disconnect in the factory wiring setup. You don't have this "check" so you could drive off with the batt switch disconnected.
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:28 PM   #27
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Simple answer, live in the RW 24/7. Then you don't worry about the battery switch.
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:30 PM   #28
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You're right, I guess I could go to storage, hook up and go with the switch off.

I like Michelle and Ann's idea. When I retire, Im tearing that switch out as a ceremonial sacrifice.
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Old 04-04-2014, 09:33 PM   #29
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Had our 36RL for going on two years and as far as I can recall have never had the battery switch off. A few breakers when doing electrical stuff, but that's about it.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:37 AM   #30
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We have owned our 2012 36RL since September 2011. I have never set the battery disconnect switch to off. Except for few hours, the coach has always been connected to power and it still has the original two batteries.
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Old 04-05-2014, 02:25 AM   #31
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Battery & Washer winterizing

My RW36RL came with only one battery and every time I took it in for warranty work, the battery was dead when I went to pick it up. I bought a portable recharable battery to jump start my generator so it wouldn't happen again. Now I have two batteries and its less of a problem, but these Redwoods consume a lot of power.
On the washer, don't forget to winterize. I just pour 1/2 gallon of antifreeze and run the spin cycle to clear the water.
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:09 AM   #32
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Fred, what do you do about your incoming water? While pumping antifreeze in to the water system, I have to start a cycle on cold until I see pink, reset, and start the cycle on hot till I see pink, then run the spin to push it back out. At least that is what is says to do in my Splendide manual.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:56 PM   #33
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Atom ant, On the washer, I disconnect the water lines and lay them low to gravity drain in a pan. I then connect a "Y" hose to the hot and cold faucets and a hose long enough to go out the door. I pressurize the intake water line, 50 psi, and blow water out all the lines and faucets one at a time. I then pour 1/2 gallon in the washer and run the spin cycle to get it in the pump. I also pour antifreeze in the sink traps and suck up some in the water pump. I just had the washer pump replaced because it froze up. Hope my way works. Your way sounds simpler. I missed that in reading the Splendide manual so I'll have to search for those instructions again.
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:39 PM   #34
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Whistler,

Sounds like you blow out the lines in lieu of pumping the pink, so the Splendide procedure may not work for you.

If you would like to see the directions, try this link.
http://www.splendide.com/downloads.htm

The table lists every Splendide model, old and new, and to the far right is a link for "winterization".
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Old 04-05-2014, 04:54 PM   #35
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I do something similar to what atom ant does, I put some A/F in the drum and I put the water temp on Warm under the assumption that water will flow into the W/D from both the hot and cold lines. With the A/F pumping through the lines I start a wash cycle until I see more A/F entering the washer, I then shut off the W/D and turn the selector to drain and re-start. Once the washer empties I repeat the process one more time. I figure that there is enough A/F going through to treat the W/D and the water lines and drain "P" trap. It's a slight variation on what the manual says.

No need to disconnect any lines using this or atom ant's method.
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