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Old 08-30-2017, 02:30 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Jeff&Karen39MB View Post
Opened both of mine, the gaskets were in tact but a little pooched in the middle, pushed them back in and metal taped them both, ordered a CFM meter from Amazon, should be here tomorrow, so far have cut one register down, and will wait on the meter to check flow to see what difference I get get.
Meter was inexpensive under $20.00 so now all I have to do is make a cup cone to sit over vent and a smaller hole to fit the fan on meter and I should get close to true air flow and air temp.
Next project is remove shoe rack and insulate the front cap I know someone has done that, so any advise on making job easier will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Jeff, when your ready to do that, drop me a line< i just did mine earlier this year.. I will walk you through it..
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Old 08-30-2017, 03:27 AM   #42
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Jeff, when your ready to do that, drop me a line< i just did mine earlier this year.. I will walk you through it..
Thanks Joe. will be in touch.
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:34 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Jeff&Karen39MB View Post
Opened both of mine, the gaskets were in tact but a little pooched in the middle, pushed them back in and metal taped them both, ordered a CFM meter from Amazon, should be here tomorrow, so far have cut one register down, and will wait on the meter to check flow to see what difference I get get.
Meter was inexpensive under $20.00 so now all I have to do is make a cup cone to sit over vent and a smaller hole to fit the fan on meter and I should get close to true air flow and air temp.
Next project is remove shoe rack and insulate the front cap I know someone has done that, so any advise on making job easier will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Reinsulated Front Cap - I have taken 1/2 of it down - the insulation was still in place, but just tons of gaps. So I used some duct strap and routed it in a way to help hold it up and close the gaps. I purchased some 1/2' and 1.5" foam board. 1/2" was placed on the shoe box (top, back and bottom - only place where I could insulate it and still get it back into its hole) and the side of shelves. Then I used the 1.5" and filled in the curved wall between the studs. I also re-made the 1st stud at the side wall so the wall board and trim could be nailed to something stronger (staples were always loose on that edge) I used some of my regular wood working staples, they were a heavier gage than the OEM. Note: the wall board takes some type of special wood filler to hide staples, regular filler with take the printed pattern off of the wall panels and trim.. Anyway - I have about 600 miles towing since the repair and seems to be working great. Now I just have to do the other side. If I can find my pictures, I will post in the correct thread.
Good Luck!!
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Old 08-30-2017, 07:11 PM   #44
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Reinsulated Front Cap - I have taken 1/2 of it down - the insulation was still in place, but just tons of gaps. So I used some duct strap and routed it in a way to help hold it up and close the gaps. I purchased some 1/2' and 1.5" foam board. 1/2" was placed on the shoe box (top, back and bottom - only place where I could insulate it and still get it back into its hole) and the side of shelves. Then I used the 1.5" and filled in the curved wall between the studs. I also re-made the 1st stud at the side wall so the wall board and trim could be nailed to something stronger (staples were always loose on that edge) I used some of my regular wood working staples, they were a heavier gage than the OEM. Note: the wall board takes some type of special wood filler to hide staples, regular filler with take the printed pattern off of the wall panels and trim.. Anyway - I have about 600 miles towing since the repair and seems to be working great. Now I just have to do the other side. If I can find my pictures, I will post in the correct thread.
Good Luck!!
That would be super, I need all the info I can get before I open it up, how did you secure your foam wall board to the back of paneling, I know its a porous material but was thinking that would be a good way to go.

My meter just arrived so I guess I'll go get that and see what I have for flow.

Thanks for come back.
Jeff.
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Old 09-23-2017, 03:27 AM   #45
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Guy, we bought a park model/modular home with an awesome view of the peak from,every window & the front porch. We weren't looking, but this just kinda grabbed us. The park is very nice & they've just remodeled 3/4 of the sites to,what they are calling "super sites". If in the area in the winter, stop by.
Randalf, glad I could,help, I'm sure any improvements you make can only help. Good luck!
Caan you provide some info on how you made the air scoops from pipe insulation? I'm fighting a cooling issue on our 2017 31SL and am ready to try just about anything. Thanks.
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Old 09-23-2017, 03:56 AM   #46
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That would be super, I need all the info I can get before I open it up, how did you secure your foam wall board to the back of paneling, I know its a porous material but was thinking that would be a good way to go.

My meter just arrived so I guess I'll go get that and see what I have for flow.

Thanks for come back.
Jeff.
Sorry to take so long, just saw this. The foam board is just wedged in between to studs, then I used some foil tape here and there to help hold it in place. The thinner foam board on the side of the shelves is attached with some type of "liquid nails" made for the foam board. With the curved paneling it really does not touch some of the middle studs, just at each end and the top and bottom plates. I wish I could have found the narrow gage staples but it must be a special tool they use in production. Anyway, most are semi hidden. Now I might get my 36" inspection camera out and check my work in a few thousand more miles to see how road vibration has affected it.. Hope that helps! Good Luck!
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Old 09-23-2017, 05:11 AM   #47
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Caan you provide some info on how you made the air scoops from pipe insulation? I'm fighting a cooling issue on our 2017 31SL and am ready to try just about anything. Thanks.
I cut pieces of 1/2-3/4" pipe insulation into about 10-12" long & horseshoed them In the ducts at the end of the runs.
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