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Old 07-13-2015, 09:32 PM   #21
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Yep, mine did, the air registers have collars since there is a gap between the ceiling and the duct but the collars are too long and stick 1/2" to 5/8" into the ducts effectively blocking the air flow downstream
Are the collars just pressed into the ceiling ? I tried to PULL one out last night , but was afraid to pry/pull too hard..
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:47 PM   #22
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Pull off the trim ring and there are three screws attaching the outlet to the ceiling. Mine all extended about 1/2" into the ducts thereby obstructing airflow. Cut the plastic outlet with a very sharp knife to trim it down.
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:48 PM   #23
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Pull off the trim ring and there are three screws attaching the outlet to the ceiling. Mine all extended about 1/2" into the ducts thereby obstructing airflow. Cut the plastic outlet with a very sharp knife to trim it down.
does the trim ring just snap on ?
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:50 PM   #24
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Yes. It seems like it will break when you flex it to snap it off but none broke..
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:52 PM   #25
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Yes. It seems like it will break when you flex it to snap it off but none broke..
thanks... I will look at them tonight
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:05 PM   #26
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Somewhere along the line in the last year, I was told it didn't matter if you had three ac units, only two would run at the same time. Maybe someone out there actually has three and could tell us.
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:07 PM   #27
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Shouldn't have to be that way with a full 50a service
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Old 07-14-2015, 01:15 AM   #28
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I would simply go with the larger A/C option rather than a third unit.
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Old 07-14-2015, 03:14 AM   #29
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Most RVs that have 3 A/C units have a power management system on them.
You cannot run 3 A/Cs, a Washing Machine, a Dryer, a Water Heater on Electric, a Microwave, a Residential Refrigerator, a Electric Cook Top and all the other goodies like TVs, Satellite Receiver, Ceiling Fan and such on a 50 amp power pedestal.
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Old 07-14-2015, 05:12 AM   #30
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Air Cond.

I have just arrived back home from using my RW. The insulation just simply isn't there. i don't care what RW says. The AC's are not adequate I don't care what RW says. 80 plus degrees during the day just simply isn't acceptable for these Supposed full time units. I have yet to check the collars which has been mentioned. But now that I have arrived home I will. So lets see.... the list of needed up grades are as ........ AC, brakes, suspension, retractable cable, Tires and wheels, Seal the shower stall, I guess we could go on. However... all that said. I most likely would choose another RW. I must be a glutton for punishment.
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Old 07-14-2015, 02:37 PM   #31
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Yes, you should be able to run whatever you want from a 50 AMP pedestal IF the draw from them all is 50 amps or less

Our new to us mh has 3 ac units and runs them, 4 tvs, res fridge, satelite, direct tv boxes, blow driers from a 50 amp pedestal... and even though it has 'shedding' logic in the system, it hasn't shut anything down as yet... (but we are still in the honeymoon phase and learning?!?)
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Old 07-14-2015, 03:25 PM   #32
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Yes, you should be able to run whatever you want from a 50 AMP pedestal IF the draw from them all is 50 amps or less

Our new to us mh has 3 ac units and runs them, 4 tvs, res fridge, satelite, direct tv boxes, blow driers from a 50 amp pedestal... and even though it has 'shedding' logic in the system, it hasn't shut anything down as yet... (but we are still in the honeymoon phase and learning?!?)
Actually 100 AMP or less Johnboytoo, and that is plenty. You get the full use of 100A 110VAC on a 50A 220VAC pedestal.
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Old 07-14-2015, 03:29 PM   #33
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50 amps is 50amps per leg or 100 amps total to the trailer. That amount of power will run everything in the trailer. Keep in mind 30 amps is just that 30 amps....ian
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Old 07-14-2015, 04:11 PM   #34
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It was in the High 90's here last week in Oregon and we were able to keep our temp inside down to 74-75 with both AC's running. Most MH's have three 13000btu AC's and the RW has two 15000btu. Really not much different. Keep your shades drawn and put out awnings out to knock heat off side of the trailer and run the ceiling fan.


May be harder to keep down in higher humidity but when its 100 out side 80 would seem like a wonderful place to be.
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Old 07-14-2015, 04:30 PM   #35
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I heard a 20 degree delta is the expectation for a properly sized RV AC with 2" walls.

I can do a little better by using the mesh shades. If I turn on a roof vent, that goes to heck in a hurry.
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Old 07-14-2015, 05:09 PM   #36
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since I am the first to admit that I am 100% clueless when it comes to electric . . according to the chart below , If I am plugged into a dedicated 30amp outlet and run NOTHING but the 2 15k AC's.. I should be able to do so >>?
Roof Air Conditioner (Continuous)
11.4
Roof Air Conditioner (Initial Start)
Up to 16
Electric Water Heater 12
Microwave 13
Converter 8
Refrigerator 3.5
TV or VCR 1
Hair Dryer 2
110 Volt Light 1
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Old 07-14-2015, 05:31 PM   #37
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The Converter itself is pulling a big chunk (8A) and can cause complications running two ACs That can put you at 30A continuous and no room left for the compressor start spike.

You can disable the converter by pulling the fuses.

Breakers trip by a heat spike, so you can actually over-run the 30 amp and the breaker won't sense it because the heat is dissipated through the cord you used to connect. I've seen RV parks with 30A where the pedestal outlet actually melts around the cord, and the breaker never trips.
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Old 07-14-2015, 11:47 PM   #38
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I have had a couple of times where I have tripped a 50 amp pedestal when running both 15K A/C units, Washing Machine, Dryer, Water Heater on Electric, Microwave, two TVs, the Satellite Receiver and typical lighting, laptop and such.
When I go out to reset the pedestal the 50 Amp Breaker is VERY HOT !!!
The 50 Amp Female plug in the Pedestal seems to be in good shape and the power cord plug blades fit tight.
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Old 07-15-2015, 01:19 AM   #39
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I've done that before as well - I think it is more of a balance thing between the two legs. Even though it is 50A on each leg, one of those legs may get overloaded when I use everything possible because I have too much on one side of the bus. It only takes one leg to overload to trip the whole breaker.

I was actually running both ACs and the W/D at the same time with HW and fridge on electric plus an additional ice maker and who knows what else. If I had been observant enough, I could have caught the rising amperage draw on the readout of my PD surge suppressor to find out which one is overloading, but I did not catch it in time. Some day I'll try it again. The fix would be to take one of the offending loads and swap it to the other side of the bus and all should be fine.
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Old 07-15-2015, 01:36 AM   #40
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Since Redwood in their infinite wisdom put both the Washer and Dryer on the same leg of the panel, I used a amp meter and moved some stuff around to balance the legs which included splitting the washer and dryer on different legs.
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