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Old 01-25-2015, 03:36 AM   #1
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Adding battery disconnect switches

So, according to the service department, the batteries dying in three days is a common problem and they recommended disconnecting the batteries. Disconnecting the batteries would be time consuming, so I am planning to add a few more battery disconnect switches to ensure ALL power is off when I am storing the RV. When I looked at the wiring I found one 4 gauge line (top picture) coming off one of the positive terminals, and another 2 gauge line (bottom picture) jumping off both positive terminals going into the RV. Since the gauges are different, I plan to get two disconnect switches and install them in these two lines. When I am done I will have a total of three battery disconnect switches. I would hope after this install all power will be off. Any comments are welcomed.

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Old 01-25-2015, 01:38 PM   #2
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You only need one switch. You just have to configure it that way.
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Old 01-25-2015, 02:22 PM   #3
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I replaced mine with a marine switch that is made for 2 batteries. Will handle all the amperage you can put through it as it is made to handle requirements from a starter. Overkill for this application.

The switch has positions for 1,2 or all or Off. That way i can use one battery and keep the other in reserve if needed. I re wired so that ALL power from the batteries goes thru the switch. I have had coach sit for 6 weeks and no problems bringing in slides or using jacks.

I have 2- group 29 interstates and will be adding a slide from MorRyde.
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Old 01-25-2015, 03:15 PM   #4
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You only need one switch. You just have to configure it that way.
Correct! Find the one positive cable coming off your batteries and put the disconnect there. That's all you need.
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Old 01-25-2015, 10:35 PM   #5
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You guys are so smart 'bout dat lectric stuff !

Thanks !
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Old 01-26-2015, 02:50 AM   #6
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The Battery switch in mine only disconnects the charger
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Old 01-26-2015, 05:08 AM   #7
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A little confused

The battery disconnect that is presently in the RW has positive lines going through it. Yet when I have looked on line at battery disconnect switches they show hooking up to the negative terminal and warn not to hook up to the positive terminal So which is it??
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Old 01-26-2015, 05:28 PM   #8
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The battery disconnect that is presently in the RW has positive lines going through it. Yet when I have looked on line at battery disconnect switches they show hooking up to the negative terminal and warn not to hook up to the positive terminal So which is it??
Technically you could just disconnect the negative terminal and do the trick. All your trying to do is break the full circle connection between positive and ground/negative.
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Old 01-26-2015, 10:18 PM   #9
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Technically you could just disconnect the negative terminal and do the trick. All your trying to do is break the full circle connection between positive and ground/negative.
Actually, that might be the best solution to the re-wire issue!! You would probably need some wire of the correct colour (and terminals) but it would avoid some shuffling of wires on the buss/circuit breaker block.
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Old 01-27-2015, 06:02 PM   #10
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This is how I've done a disconnect to the battery for my vehicles when storing them. The only component I'm not sure of is what effect if any the onboard converter will have when you're plugged in and forget to reconnect the batteries.
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Old 01-27-2015, 07:05 PM   #11
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Based on my experience I don't think the converter will have a problem. On our last 2 RV's I've only connected the batts when traveling or boondocking, when on shore power I disconnect the batts and run the 12V requirements off the converter. The battery water boil off is virtually zero.

If the RV is sitting for a long period (3-4 months) without the batts connected I connect them up for a day or so before we move to ensure that they are fully charged, I haven't checked but I don't suspect that they lose much charge over the period.
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Old 01-28-2015, 12:47 AM   #12
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How about one of these on each battery? I used one many years ago, and they work great.

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Old 01-28-2015, 12:55 AM   #13
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I guess they would work if they were easily accessible. They won't be if they are under the battery box covers that are screwed down. Normal batteries release hydrogen gas when charging. Better keep them covers on tight. Pretty sure battery disconnect switches on the frame would be easier to access.

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Old 01-28-2015, 02:49 AM   #14
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I guess they would work if they were easily accessible. They won't be if they are under the battery box covers that are screwed down. Normal batteries release hydrogen gas when charging. Better keep them covers on tight. Pretty sure battery disconnect switches on the frame would be easier to access.

Chris
X2 on the battery disconnect switch being mounted on the frame.
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Old 01-28-2015, 05:20 PM   #15
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What a PITA! When truck is hooked up, everything has to line up just right to open the hatch to access this damn thing. Love yanking my batteries in and out 2x per year too!
Have a sailboat with the 2 battery selector... going to install that if it ever warms up! Dodged Snowmagedden the other day!
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Old 01-28-2015, 06:15 PM   #16
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Another option would be to put the battery disconnect in the forward section of the basement. I don't think that would be too difficult.
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Old 01-28-2015, 06:38 PM   #17
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Would it be illegal to install the switch in the driver's side propane locker?
Failing that it could to installed in the basement on the driver's side forward wall next to the Level Up components.
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:18 PM   #18
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Would it be illegal to install the switch in the driver's side propane locker?
Failing that it could to installed in the basement on the driver's side forward wall next to the Level Up components.

I don't think I'd want any type of spark around those LP tanks
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:34 PM   #19
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I don't think I'd want any type of spark around those LP tanks
I second this, I smell propane in my LP tanks areas all the time for various reasons. Mostly due to bad hoses which have finally been replaced, twice...
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Old 01-29-2015, 01:08 PM   #20
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Just as a comment - marine switches are spark proof as they are approved to be used in the engine compartment. One of the reasons I used it.
Having said that, I wish I would've thought to remote mount it. Only comment I would make is when you make the cables to go to the switch, make them quite a bit larger diameter than what is currently there as you are going a longer distance.

The other change I am making this year is to put in a MorRyde slide out battery tray and re-do the rats nest of factory wiring.
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