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Old 10-11-2014, 02:06 AM   #41
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The one key number that I think you're missing is the trucks GVWR. My 2012 F350 SRW had a GVWR of 11,300 lbs. The truck and trailer with fuel and passengers weighed in at the cat scale at 13,360. This means my 1 ton truck was overweight by 2,060 lbs.

The trucks tow rating is only one number you need to be concerned with. IMHO, the GVWR of your truck compared the actual weight of the truck loaded with the trailer is the critical number. As I stated above, I was one ton overweight with my F350 SRW.....not close in my book.

Ken
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Old 10-11-2014, 02:33 AM   #42
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The one key number that I think you're missing is the trucks GVWR. My 2012 F350 SRW had a GVWR of 11,300 lbs. The truck and trailer with fuel and passengers weighed in at the cat scale at 13,360. This means my 1 ton truck was overweight by 2,060 lbs.

The trucks tow rating is only one number you need to be concerned with. IMHO, the GVWR of your truck compared the actual weight of the truck loaded with the trailer is the critical number. As I stated above, I was one ton overweight with my F350 SRW.....not close in my book.

Ken

well said......
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Old 10-11-2014, 02:37 AM   #43
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Like I had posted earlier in this thread....buy a truck for what you're going to use it for. If you're planing on going full time and pull the Redwood across the country.....I think you're making a mistake not going with a dually. If on the other hand you're going to pull a little on weekends and not going far, you can probably get a SRW as long as you don't carry water and are careful. This is a decision that only you and your family can make.
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Old 10-11-2014, 02:39 AM   #44
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The one key number that I think you're missing is the trucks GVWR. My 2012 F350 SRW had a GVWR of 11,300 lbs. The truck and trailer with fuel and passengers weighed in at the cat scale at 13,360. This means my 1 ton truck was overweight by 2,060 lbs.

The trucks tow rating is only one number you need to be concerned with. IMHO, the GVWR of your truck compared the actual weight of the truck loaded with the trailer is the critical number. As I stated above, I was one ton overweight with my F350 SRW.....not close in my book.

Ken
I would find a new scale, I would think your truck would be around 8,000 buy it's self. With srw trucks payload and gcwr is going to be the problem, I have to keep rw under 14,600 or I'll go over 22,000 gcwr.
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Old 10-11-2014, 03:17 AM   #45
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No Jim, it was a certified CAT scale. I have the weight receipt. Total weight was 26,000 lbs. Truck with trailer was 13,360.
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Old 10-11-2014, 03:18 AM   #46
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Dave, still not sold, if the trailer pin was welded to the truck then maybe but it's not.I have an air hitch and the trailer dances around a little that we don't feel but can be seen in the mirrors. It would take a blast more then 25-30 mph to cause a problem. Semis get blown over and there duallys with heavy pin weight.Not trying to argue but I don't think you need a truck rated to tow 26,000 to tow 16,000
If you have a 2012 f250, you are way over on your pin wgt with your RW. Right?
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Old 10-11-2014, 03:28 AM   #47
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If you have a 2012 f250, you are way over on your pin wgt with your RW. Right?
It's a gas, don't have the extra weight of the diesel motor comming off the gvwr.
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Old 10-11-2014, 04:00 AM   #48
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It's a gas, don't have the extra weight of the diesel motor comming off the gvwr.
We are weekenders and have a 36FL, only things in basement is to 2 rubber maid contains one has 3 25ft water hoses 1 in line water filter I brass regulator the other 20ft sewer hose. The side compartment 2 lawn chairs ,1 patio mat, 1 5ft aluminum step ladder and 1 small plastic folding table to set or drinks on power cord goes in there also. All FL cabinets empty but 1 dw has a small blanket in.I drain hot water tank also (maybe 2-3 weeks between use and may turn stagnant). Everything you add to your front bed and bathroom goes in my rear bed and bathroom.
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Old 10-11-2014, 09:02 AM   #49
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Hi, me again
Do All Redwoods have the same Keyless Entry, with the same keys to open them. A Bauer keyless lock with #332 Key. I just had a replacement lock as mine was not working . 2nd one came with the same key # , and the keyless entry still does not work. When you put in your code the deadbolt only travels slightly and stops, won't fully extend. Any answers out there.
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Old 10-11-2014, 02:04 PM   #50
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Our Redwood has the Bauer Keyless Lock and it did not work when we picked it up.
The dealers tech worked on it for quite some time and could not get it to work right either and pretty much gave up and did not know what to do.
We took delivery of our RW since the key worked and figured we would deal with it later.

Contacted Bauer and they sent replacement lock assemblies for both doors, like you said they did the same thing.
I could get them to work fine with the door open but with the door closed they did not work.

They did not appear to be binding and aligned with the door strike ok.
What I found is the door pocket depth where the locks latch goes into the wall at the strike plate was way too shallow for the locks dead bolt post to fully extend.
This was causing the lock to fault due to bottoming out and not allowing the locks motor to make a full stroke.
I made the pocket deeper, made sure all debris and metal on the door and strike plate was clear and now both of the Bauer Locks work great every time.

In the end not a Bauer issue, it was a Redwood issue.

Bauer was great to work with and replaced the locks without question, shame the dealers tech had no idea how to fix the problem but I have found I can fix most small issues quicker and better than the dealer can.
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Old 10-11-2014, 03:13 PM   #51
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Us too !

We have never been able to use the Bauer keyless...

Contacted dealer multiple times and no joy..
Contacted bauer and they offered to send me a new lock the next day...
finally took the time to swap it out, and it works perfectly...
they even sent a UPS return postage

they have a new design that holds the batteries better...
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Old 10-12-2014, 06:54 PM   #52
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Yep, the replacement locks are completely different than the ones they replaced. The keyless feature now works flawlessly!
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Old 10-12-2014, 07:21 PM   #53
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any pics of the new lock?
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Old 10-12-2014, 08:18 PM   #54
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any pics of the new lock?
The physically look exactly the same, only they are entirely made of metal, not with the plastics bits that the old one contained.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:39 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob_fla View Post
Our Redwood has the Bauer Keyless Lock and it did not work when we picked it up.
The dealers tech worked on it for quite some time and could not get it to work right either and pretty much gave up and did not know what to do.
We took delivery of our RW since the key worked and figured we would deal with it later.

Contacted Bauer and they sent replacement lock assemblies for both doors, like you said they did the same thing.
I could get them to work fine with the door open but with the door closed they did not work.

They did not appear to be binding and aligned with the door strike ok.
What I found is the door pocket depth where the locks latch goes into the wall at the strike plate was way too shallow for the locks dead bolt post to fully extend.
This was causing the lock to fault due to bottoming out and not allowing the locks motor to make a full stroke.
I made the pocket deeper, made sure all debris and metal on the door and strike plate was clear and now both of the Bauer Locks work great every time.

In the end not a Bauer issue, it was a Redwood issue.

Bauer was great to work with and replaced the locks without question, shame the dealers tech had no idea how to fix the problem but I have found I can fix most small issues quicker and better than the dealer can.




^My 2015 RW has the Bauer NE lock, and it has worked every single time I've tried it. You have to make sure you "wake up" the Bauer locks by pressing the black area until the numbers light up.
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Old 10-12-2014, 11:30 PM   #56
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^My 2015 RW has the Bauer NE lock, and it has worked every single time I've tried it. You have to make sure you "wake up" the Bauer locks by pressing the black area until the numbers light up.
Is yours an all metal construction? You can easily tell by whether the inside handle seems "flimsy" when closing the door?

I think the new design made some adjustments to the internals as well. We had two of the older style and neither would work. Thats a pretty high failure rate .
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Old 10-13-2014, 12:04 AM   #57
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Is yours an all metal construction? You can easily tell by whether the inside handle seems "flimsy" when closing the door?

I think the new design made some adjustments to the internals as well. We had two of the older style and neither would work. Thats a pretty high failure rate .
Mine is metal, inside and out. After I get the pad to light up, "wake up", it works without fail, so far.
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:12 AM   #58
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Exactly my thoughts. I hated giving up my previous truck, and moving to a dually. I still do,......until I'm hooked up, and moving down the road.
Just got home from a great trip to Santa Fe for the balloon festival. Couldn't tell the RW was even behind me. The dually pulled great!!
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Old 10-13-2014, 04:16 AM   #59
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The externals 'look' them same, and like I posted,
the biggest difference i saw between 'old' and new was they 'captured' the batteries better with small tabs around the batteries...

on the old one, the batteries could be 'pushed out' of contact by the spring ends...
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:26 PM   #60
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So far our replacement Bauer lock works like it should, fingers crossed!
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