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Old 03-24-2013, 12:38 PM   #1
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My wife and I recently purchased a 2013 31 SL Redwood. It is somewhat heavier then our previous 5th wheel. We are not traveling extensively right now but hope to hit the road within the next year. I have been pulling with a 2004 Dodge 2500, cummins diesel with air bags. According to the specs for my truck I have a GVWR of 9000lbs. and a GCVWR of 20,000 lbs. I weighed at a scale last week with the truck loaded and the 5th wheel loaded, except food and clothing, and the GCVW was 20,300 lbs, over by 300 lbs. The GVW for the truck hitched was 9,780 lbs, over by 780 lbs. The trailer axles weighed in at 10,560 lbs. I figured the pin weight at 2500 lbs. The GAWR for the rear truck axle is 6,000 lbs, and with the trailer, weighed in at 5,580 lbs. I know these figures and ratings get to be confusing but I think I should probably be looking for a better tow vehicle. I love my Dodge, but even the Dodge 3500 dually is not rated much better than my 2500 yet I see people pulling larger Redwoods with the 3500.I have been swaying more towards the Ford F350 or the Chevrolet 3500 single rear wheel trucks. They seem to be rated much higher all around. What I would like to know from my fellow Redwood owners, what type of fuel mileage are you getting with these newer HD trucks and at what speed do you pull? Any insight will be appreciated.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:01 PM   #2
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Have to smile when I see such an analysis regarding the minimum tow vehicle that will meet the exact specs. If you purchase more tow vehicle than you need, what's the risk? It's plain that having more tow vehicle than you need results in better performance, comfort and safety. Forget manufacturer specs.

If you are in the market for a tow vehicle, it comes down to buying a GMC 3500, Ford F350 or Dodge 3500 dualie and then you can cross it off your list. No more monitoring the loading, visiting scales, and on, and on. Sure, you might be able to save a little cutting corners on the TV or Redwood, but not a substantial amount. If you've never towed with a duallie, just take our word for it.

So the analysis should be: 1-ton diesel truck, dual wheels, 8' box, 60 gal fuel tank; Trail Air Tri-Glide hitch option, disk brake option, G-rated tire option... Fill up the truck & you're ready for travel. Those are the basics. You're not reinventing the wheel here.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:11 PM   #3
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I tow with a 2011 F350 SRW with nothing special and it has performed outstanding. A dully would give you more rubber on the road and make it more stable but so far I have not had a problem. I usally tow at about 65 but I find myself closer to 70 sometimes. The only problem I have encountered is in high winds, which there are plenty of here in Tx, and when you get in the hill country around Austin with the high wind I seem to get wind sheer at times. When that happens I just slow down and no prioblems. Get a F350 SRW or dully and you can't go wrong.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:14 PM   #4
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I have to smile at myself sometimes at how technical I get when researching these things. I guess I know deep down that I will end up with one of the top three duallies. My wife just hates the idea of having to drive a dually around town when she wants to go somewhere. I would still like to hear from fellow Redwooders on fuel mileage before I make the big jump. Ford dealers tell me they hear that the new 6.7 diesel is getting great fuel mileage pulling but then they are somewhat biased! I would like to hear from real life RVers as to what they are getting when pulling.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:16 PM   #5
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Can you give me an idea of fuel mileage when pulling?
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:27 PM   #6
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I have gotten as high as 20 MPH running empty but I usually get around 17 MPH. Pulling, I get between 11 and 13.9 MPG depending on the terrain and wind. I full time and also camp host at the Vineyard RV park and see a lot of 6.7 trucks and this seems to be about the norm. If you really want to play it safe go to a F450 dually. You can pull a house with that monster but your milage is going to drop about 2 MPG.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:56 PM   #7
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Oh here we go its the old I can get better MPG than anyone else Fuel converts to BTU,s it take so many BTU,s to move a given weight unless your going downhill all the time and you can't use the reading on the factory lie-o-meter the only way would be to Track your miles while towing and gallons in the tank then right as you drop the trailer fill it up into the neck so you can see it Oh and when you hitch back up start it all over again track it for 50000 miles then tell me what you get! Yea I got like 19 MPG heading East in mWest Texas on I10 30 MPH tail wind and your going down hill all the way
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Old 03-24-2013, 02:36 PM   #8
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2011 Chevy 3500HD, DRW, 4x4 (really 4x6) Duramax/Allison, Extended Cab Long bed: 17 to 20 solo, depending on speed, 14 to 16 around town, and 9.5 to 11 at 63 to 66 MPHpulling our RL which isloaded tomax cap.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:03 PM   #9
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A man that knows what he's talking about !!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:19 PM   #10
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Our '09 GMC crewcab 4x2 Duramax dually does 19 alone 16-17 around town and 10-12 towing. The best it's done was 13.3 butthat was with the Montana. The worst was 8.5 one time in a 45 -50 mph wind. Won't repeat that trip. This is my second Duramax and they will have to pry my cold dead fingers from the steering wheel.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:44 PM   #11
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I tow with a GMC 3500 SRW short bed. I get around 20 mpg traveling, 14-15 around town and 10-11.5 towing my 36 RL at 65 mph. If towing in mtns. it drops to 8.5-9 mpg.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:56 PM   #12
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Beech guy must be driving a dodgeor a 6.0 or 6.4 F350. Why does everyone always guestion what the new 6.7 is getting for milage and how well they ae oerforning?
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:59 PM   #13
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I tow with a 2012 F350 CrewCab, Short bed 4x4. It has all the upgrades for GVW (11,500) and I've added airbags. Just got back from a trip into the PA mountains. Mine does 17-18 around town, I'v seen as high as 20 on the road, and a perttey consisten 10-5-11 towing the 36RL. The Airbags make a HUGE difference in ride and stability.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:11 PM   #14
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Piper guy, what brand of airbags do you have on your F350. I have been thinking about putting air bags on my 3500 GMC.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:19 PM   #15
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I put on the AirLift Loadlifter 5000 with the on-board wireless compressor (highly recommend this. I went back and forth about whether to do the compressor too and can only say I wouldn't be without it now). What really surprised me was the difference in ride Unloaded. The truck has always had what I would consider a very stiff and "jarring" ride in the rear without a load in it. Now, with about 15 lbs pressure in the bags, the ride is much smoother, really big difference. When I hitch the RL, grab the remote and put the bags to 60 lbs and the trailer just sits back there on it's TrailAir hitch and happily floats along. Bridge crossings and dips in the interstates are no longer the "Oh S$%^" that they were ........ very, very happy.



Next up is a front and rear set of Helwig heavy duty sway bars ........ Stay tuned for report .....
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:28 PM   #16
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I had the Firestone ride rite airbags and on board compressor on my 05 Chevrolet 2500. Really liked it only wish I had taken compressor off before trading it. Was there any special reason why you went with the airlift system over any others? Also, where did you purchase your system from? I'm definitely going to install airbags just haven't decided on which system going to purchase.
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:16 PM   #17
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The Airlift bags are a "no drilling" install. Also, the warranty is forever. I buy most all of my accessories from autoanything.com. Nice people to deal with
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:25 PM   #18
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Air Lift bags and the auto-leveling compressor sitting in garage for mine, along with a new hitch. Too cccccoold!

As soon as I get a call the Redwood is done, I'll get renewed enthusiasm!
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:46 PM   #19
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Ha, airbags are hi-jacking the thread again??
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:03 PM   #20
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Dang, I thought this would be a good one. Got the popcorn ready and everything.
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