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Old 07-28-2014, 03:49 PM   #1
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Pullrite hitch removal

Hey there....it's the rookie again, with a question I wonder if anyone has input on. I just purchased a gently used Pullrite 4400 SuperGlide with the "under the bed" mounting brackets so I can remove the hitch when not needed. Riiiiigght. This little dumpling isn't so easy to move weighing in at over 200#. Since we are "sometimers" and not full timers, I use my truck for daily transportation, so I want that clean bed when not towing. (I know....a PIMA to mess with). I'm trying to figure out a clever way to get it off the truck without asking for help to lift it out without needing back surgery. Options that come to mind are a chain hoist from my boat stall, or putting a "slide board" at the back of the tail gate and slide it down to the ground. Anybody out there faced this need before?
Secondly if I may ask, the Super Rail mounting kit requires, drilling some holes into the bed in order for the mounting posts to be positioned. When the entire hitch is out, I'll have these holes there. Are there plastic or rubber plugs available that anyone knows of that will fit?
Sorry to be needy, but hoping I can pull from the wealth of knowledge out there to help my transition to "big boy" glamping...
Oh btw....to those that responded with doubts about the 2015 Denali 2500 HD pulling the rig, you are all probably right with regard to suspension... Have Air Lift air bag system on the way for installation. Best I can do with the hand I'm dealt...
Thanks in advance folks...
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Old 07-28-2014, 04:37 PM   #2
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I have a similar system in my truck. It came with rubber plugs for the holes when not using them. Etrailer.com also has them. on my Reese the head comes off making it weigh in less to remove. but I use a fork lift anyway, just easier.
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Old 07-28-2014, 04:41 PM   #3
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I would use the chain hoist, gravity will unload it, but loading is a hole 'nother thing.
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:11 PM   #4
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Figuring on the chain hoist, but thought I'd ask.

To Foxfire, I checked Etrailer.com and not sure what to search for re: rubber plugs. Any ideas on what to even call them? Did you see them by chance on etrailer.com?
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:15 PM   #5
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I have never done it, but have seen where when they unhook, instead of releasing the pin, they release the hitch from the bed of the truck, raise the trailer, and pull out leaving the hitch attached to the trailer. Something to maybe check into.
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:39 PM   #6
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Stoker,

I've seen some folks that have their hitches still hooked up to their trailer and then pull the truck out from under it. I don't like the looks of it but it can be done.

I think you might have the wrong hitch for easy removal. I used to pull my trailer with a short bed F350 without a problem and I didn't have a slider. I used a B&W which is easy to remove.
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:50 PM   #7
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I have some experience removing my Pullrite hitch. I installed a hoist purchased at Harbor freight. Then I attached chain at the 4 points on the hitch. Photo attached

The problem with this design was that it was difficult to get the truck positioned exactly at the fulcrum point. The second problem is that the weight of the head caused the hitch to list when pulled. The result was that the hitch became catawampus and I bent the pins. Photo attached.

An engineer buddy of mine worked on a solution for me using a cigar box and string! The result was as pictured below. It pulled straight and was also very easy to align to reinstall.

BTW, the frame was built from 2x4's, with 2 4x4's in the center for support. Bolts were drilled through the 2x4's to align with the pull points on the hitch.

Also, since I had a factory bed liner, I didn't use plugs. The frame rails were easily blown out before reinstallation. If I was hauling dirt or rock, I just put a small sheet of ply over all 4 holes.

Hope that helps,

Ken
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Attachment point.jpg (56.5 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg Hoist.jpg (23.6 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg bent pins.jpg (49.7 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Solution.jpg (56.4 KB, 25 views)
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoker View Post
Figuring on the chain hoist, but thought I'd ask.

To Foxfire, I checked Etrailer.com and not sure what to search for re: rubber plugs. Any ideas on what to even call them? Did you see them by chance on etrailer.com?
http://accessories.etrailer.com/search?p=Q&lbc=etrailer&uid=629291245&ts=v2&w=rubb er covers&af=dep:accessoriesandparts&nf=&isort=score& method=and&view=grid

I cant get the link to work but a search for rubber covers and or rubber pucks brought up more than a few of the hole plugs

http://accessories.etrailer.com/search?p=Q&lbc=etrailer&uid=629291245&ts=v2&w=rubb er covers&af=dep:accessoriesandparts&nf=&isort=score& method=and&view=grid
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoker View Post
Hey there....it's the rookie again, with a question I wonder if anyone has input on. I just purchased a gently used Pullrite 4400 SuperGlide with the "under the bed" mounting brackets so I can remove the hitch when not needed. Riiiiigght. This little dumpling isn't so easy to move weighing in at over 200#. Since we are "sometimers" and not full timers, I use my truck for daily transportation, so I want that clean bed when not towing. (I know....a PIMA to mess with). I'm trying to figure out a clever way to get it off the truck without asking for help to lift it out without needing back surgery. Options that come to mind are a chain hoist from my boat stall, or putting a "slide board" at the back of the tail gate and slide it down to the ground. Anybody out there faced this need before?
Secondly if I may ask, the Super Rail mounting kit requires, drilling some holes into the bed in order for the mounting posts to be positioned. When the entire hitch is out, I'll have these holes there. Are there plastic or rubber plugs available that anyone knows of that will fit?
Sorry to be needy, but hoping I can pull from the wealth of knowledge out there to help my transition to "big boy" glamping...
Oh btw....to those that responded with doubts about the 2015 Denali 2500 HD pulling the rig, you are all probably right with regard to suspension... Have Air Lift air bag system on the way for installation. Best I can do with the hand I'm dealt...
Thanks in advance folks...
I have a Pullrite 20.5K Super Fifth hitch and you are right, these hitches are heavy. You can easily remove the head which makes it a little easier to do, but that main frame is still a load. I use a small tractor with loader and fork lift to do mine.

Relative to the plugs, you can call Pullrite and give them the information about your hitch and they have plugs available which you can purchase or they will tell you where you can obtain them.
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Old 08-21-2014, 03:17 PM   #10
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Good morning fellow travelers! It's Stoker the rookie tagging up with the community once more for some of that fine "worth more than what I'm paying for" advice from its members. We finally did it.....I'm sporting "Wood" now with the 2013 38BR, and yes, I still have the 2015 2500 HD Denali to yank it around. Installed wireless air bags and the Pull Rite 4400 hitch, and the bed barely sagged when I coupled up at the dealer with only 5# air in the bags. Bumped the air up to 25#, which I'm still playing with, but think even that is going to be a little stiff. Rear axle weight on the truck is 6800#, so I know I'm overloaded a bit. So....here's the rub....I have a Retrax rollup bed cover on the truck. The channels for the Retrax are about 1" higher than the actual bed rail, giving me about 3" between top of this channel and the bottom of the overhang of the trailer as it sits coupled up. Another buddy (fellow 5er), says I need 5-6" clearance. Other forums reflect same. Pull Rite says no adjustment in the hitch vertically, but I can buy a 3" lift kit. Today, the rig sits perfectly level when coupled up. Raising the hitch 3" is going to make ride profile high in the front and lower at rear of coach. This worries me re: rear clearance, extra load on rear axle bearings/tires. Master Hitch here in Houston says they can "flip" the axles. I am going this morning to the storage unit to see if axles are on top of or under the springs. My thread to you guys is this: Can the pin box be adjusted any to give me more vertical clearance, so I don't have to buy/install a 3" lift kit under the SuperGlide hitch? If the Rotoflex Pin Box can be adjusted, how difficult is it? Thanks in advance for the guidance!
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Old 08-21-2014, 03:26 PM   #11
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Adjusting the pin box height is fairly easy, I adjusted the MorRyde Pin Box on our last 5th Wheel.
Had my BIL help me move the pin box down as I had sort of the same problem.
I replaced our old Husky Hitch with a Curt Hitch, the Curt Hitch did not sit as high as the Husky and we did not have much clearance between the bed and the 5er.
It was a matter of removing the pin box bolts and moving it down one set of holes, worked great.
Now with our RW and the Air Ride Trail Air Hitch, I had to move the Curt Hitch down one set of holes as it was too high, it is still a little high but I like the bed clearance so I think I am going to leave it.
Next time I am at a level rest area, I will check the Truck / 5er Height / Level
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Old 08-21-2014, 05:35 PM   #12
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I don't think flipping the axles would be a good idea, these RWs are already plenty tall, it would worry the hell out of me to add another 3+" to the height.
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Old 08-21-2014, 05:37 PM   #13
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especially because of the extended travel in the equalizer (up and down) with the Equaflex. These can really roll to the side in an uneven road in town.
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Old 08-21-2014, 06:32 PM   #14
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I lowered the king pin when I had my F350 and the pullrite hitch. That gave me the clearance needed.
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Old 08-21-2014, 07:47 PM   #15
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My pullrite and ccsb 350 srw didn't need a thing -
Do you have a trailair triglide hitch ?

Little late for me to find out, but if so, you may not even need a slider
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:16 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Dave&Ginny View Post
Stoker,

I've seen some folks that have their hitches still hooked up to their trailer and then pull the truck out from under it. I don't like the looks of it but it can be done.

I think you might have the wrong hitch for easy removal. I used to pull my trailer with a short bed F350 without a problem and I didn't have a slider. I used a B&W which is easy to remove.
I have the same as you Dave, the dealer I bought my Redwood from includes it in on the price of the Redwood and had a shop near that I brought it to have installed. There is no mistakes with the B&W, if the pin is in, it ain't going know where.
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Old 08-22-2014, 01:00 AM   #17
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I know the Trail-Air hitch can be adjusted fairly easily. You just remove 8 bolts (I think that's right) adjust to desired height and reinsert, torque, etc.

As for the clearance, I'm no expert but I've got 5-6" and I wouldn't want any less. I've never come close to hitting but that's a good thing.

In regards to flipping the axles. A couple of words of caution about this on a Redwood.

1) Not sure that wouldn't void the Lippert warranty.
2) More importantly, these rigs are very tall already. I would not want it a few inches higher as we already have to watch out for low bridges.

Just my .02.
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Old 08-23-2014, 01:38 AM   #18
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Hey, folks, I posted a new thread on this dilemma, but since some of you kept this going and have some experience and advice.... I'm deliberating now over a MorRyde pin box if it will actually allow the trailer to sit taller in the front than the current TrailAire Rotoflex set up this thing came with. I actually sit pretty darn level with about 20# air in the bags. I measured from bottom of the front of the body of the trailer to the ground, then raised the trailer 3" while hooked up just to see how it looked. Backed off and eyeballed it and I can see where it does sit "nose high" just a bit, but you have to look close to see it. Reckon I will put too much weight on the back axle if I just do a 3" lift kit under the hitch? Cheaper solution than new pin box. Thoughts?
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Old 08-23-2014, 02:10 AM   #19
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first - Are you SURE it's a real problem ?
just saying, a BIT nose or tail high is not an issue...
measure your rear wheel wheel height before and after hook up...
adjust your air bags to have the height about 1" lower than unloaded height...
once hooked up did you measure your rv's clearance and frame rails front and back to make sure you have a problem ?

Have you got the proper air in your tires? both rv and tow vehicle ?
Have you loaded it like it will be when towing it ?
Have you measured the frame rails front and back after towing a bit and stopping on level ground ?

I would wait until all your adjustments are done before making any drastic changes...

good luck !
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Old 08-23-2014, 02:32 AM   #20
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Thanks for responding John Boy Too....1st there is no problem as long as I tow in level terrain. 3.5" clearance between top of Retrax channel (on top of bed rail), to the bottom side of the RV. Fine as long as I'm not angling up from the street into a parking lot for fuel or something I suppose. 80# air in rear axle of truck, 65# front axle of truck. 105# in tandems of the RV G rated Goodyear. To clarify, it's not a clearance problem of the RV front or back under the rig....it's the bedrail clearance of the bed of the truck and the overhang of the RV. I have not measured frame rail to ground of the RV front and back yet. I am just worried that if I'm a little nose high from exactly level by 2-3", what is the danger point for the rear axle wheel bearings, and tires? Not on good footing to determine how much weight transfer occurs with a little "nose high" profile. I think I'm going to opt for the lift kit that will be a 3" lift kit for my Pullrite slider hitch and be done with it. Don't want to have to deal with insurance claim on the truck and the RV from a "too close" level of clearance. May be the wrong thing, but thinking damage limitations. I'll keep an eye on the tire temps while towing on this maiden voyage down to Port Aransas for Labor Day.
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