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Old 06-26-2017, 11:08 AM   #31
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I'm going to assume your right Larry. I have never tried taking voltages of the plug without having a trailer connected. I use a pigtail plug that I made up specifically for testing lights, brakes etc. it relies on the trailer being connected to check grounds as well. Winter snowmobile trailers here are always having grounding issues so I always have them hooked up. I stand corrected

John
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Old 06-26-2017, 02:29 PM   #32
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John,

Believe me no offense intended. I was just checking at the plug as someone else described they were going to do. When I could not get anything more, from operating the controller manually, than +/- 1V on the blue, I believed it was the truck with the problem. I took it to the dealership and they also got the same result and looked up several technical bulletins.

They were the ones who told me that the truck had to see a trailer connected before it would send voltage down the blue from the controller. YMMV,

Anyway I am super glad we both got to the bottom of it! It appears that neither one of us had an actual issue with the truck.
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Old 06-26-2017, 04:10 PM   #33
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Not offended at all! This was one of the most helpful threads I have used this month. I would hate to think how long I would have driven with bad brakes.
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Old 06-27-2017, 12:54 AM   #34
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With GM's it's not so much seeing the trailer connected as it is the Low Resistance of the Magnet Coils. That's where the CAM comes in, it supplies the proper low resistance to fake out GM's (prior to 2017) into thinking it's connected to standard electric drum brakes.
I actually had a CAM fail while setting in a Campground. Everything worked when we pulled in, but no brakes when we went to leave. I now carry a spare CAM.
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Old 08-09-2017, 01:11 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
With GM's it's not so much seeing the trailer connected as it is the Low Resistance of the Magnet Coils. That's where the CAM comes in, it supplies the proper low resistance to fake out GM's (prior to 2017) into thinking it's connected to standard electric drum brakes.
I actually had a CAM fail while setting in a Campground. Everything worked when we pulled in, but no brakes when we went to leave. I now carry a spare CAM.


Just to clarify. 2016 and later GM. GM says do not use a resistor/Cam module. Could cause damage. This truck must be moving to get brakes from the pedal. Sitting still and depressing the brake pedal will do nothing.


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Old 08-10-2017, 11:03 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
With GM's it's not so much seeing the trailer connected as it is the Low Resistance of the Magnet Coils. That's where the CAM comes in, it supplies the proper low resistance to fake out GM's (prior to 2017) into thinking it's connected to standard electric drum brakes.
I actually had a CAM fail while setting in a Campground. Everything worked when we pulled in, but no brakes when we went to leave. I now carry a spare CAM.
I have a 2016 Silverado High Country DWD. When brake problems came up I sent an Email to GM's customer service explaining the issues after the dealer gave up. The next day the GM engineer responsible for designing the tow package and software called me directly much to my surprise. He expressed concern as he was finalizing the 2017 design. As Ron (Titan Guy) noted, the CAM module ( resistor) must be disconnected for proper operation of the EOH disk brakes on my High Country. He also commented that the Titan brake controller was the best of all they have tested in respect to lowest/fastest reaction time. He has called several times over the past year. That is stellar customer care!
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Old 08-11-2017, 02:18 PM   #37
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Thanks for that tidbit, I'll have to remember that if I bite the bullit and order an '18 Silverado, to remove my Cam Module before towing.
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