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Old 06-09-2016, 11:03 PM   #1
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fulltimers to be, 2way or residential refer?

Hello folks, names Keith. It's a pleasure to be joining you all. The wife and I are retired and have lived aboard a 42ft motor yacht for the last 5 years and am now ready to move back to a land yacht. We are really like the 36RL or 38 RL as a fulltime rig. I am totally use to being on battery banks as we anchor out all summer and cruise. So I am wondering which way to go with the refrigerator. I was originally thinking to go with the 2way 12volt / propane but so many of the used 2015 /2016s have the residential in them I am curious as to how they preform boondocking for 2-3 weeks at a time? my intent was to go with the onan genset and change over to a larger battery bank like I have now and to run the refer on the 12volt side as much as possible.
I am running 4 6volt Trojan L-16 bats and that gives me 940 amp hrs. or about 48 to 56 hrs. of running a 11cf apt size 120v refer, phone chargers, laptops etc. even a little tv now and then. So I would expect a little more running the same size 2way refer before I would have to run the genny. what are you all doing ? and pros / cons or either ? Thanks again for being such helpful folks.
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Old 06-09-2016, 11:40 PM   #2
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I personally love the residential due to the fridge staying at temp when the weather gets hot. The Norcolds I have had in the past do not. If I was doing a lot of boondocking I might have a different opinion. If you have a generator and enough batteries or solar the residential would work. I have 3 12v interstates that will run the fridge for about 2days without recharging
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Old 06-09-2016, 11:45 PM   #3
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After having the Residential Fridge in the last two RV's I would not go back to the Norcold. We do not do much boondocking. I have 4 6 volts and have gone 3 days with just the fridge on and still had plenty of battery left. I have no genset in our RW did not want the extra weight.
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:23 AM   #4
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Although we don't boondock much, 10 days was the most, I would never have an Rv frig again. The residential doesn't use much power and IMHO, is a far better choice.

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Old 06-10-2016, 02:00 AM   #5
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Our unit has the residential fridge and the induction cook top. We bought the 2015 GK with 1 year on it and at the price we paid I can afford to put a gen in it. IMO with out having the gen I am not at the freedom to go where ever I want and pull over where ever I want. We will keep this unit for 3-4 years then buy the new one the way we want it. And 100% it will have a gas stove and fridge even with a gen. The way it is is a moveable park model. Not a camper.
I just do not understand why RV builders charge more for a residential cook top and fridge when they cost less to buy and less to install.
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Old 06-10-2016, 02:06 PM   #6
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I just do not understand why RV builders charge more for a residential cook top and fridge when they cost less to buy and less to install.
Very good question. We were in camping World last weekend and I just happened to look at 2-way refer prices and I just about choked on my Life Saver candy sucker.
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Old 06-10-2016, 02:45 PM   #7
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Well when there are Class Action Suites against both Dometic and Norcold because of fires in their fridges it makes much more sense to go to residentials. Residential fridge or not, if I was planning a lots of time off the Grid, I would invest in a really good Solar system coupled with a good Battery bank and you could stay off the grid almost as long as you wanted.
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Old 06-10-2016, 04:27 PM   #8
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Residential fridge current drain

Does anyone know what the inverter draws when powering the residential fridge?
I'm trying to size a solar charger.
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Old 06-12-2016, 05:44 PM   #9
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The display on my Inverter Remote will show 11 amps when the Fridge is running, but I seldom see it as the Fridge runs so little.
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:54 AM   #10
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Well when there are Class Action Suites against both Dometic and Norcold because of fires in their fridges it makes much more sense to go to residentials. Residential fridge or not, if I was planning a lots of time off the Grid, I would invest in a really good Solar system coupled with a good Battery bank and you could stay off the grid almost as long as you wanted.
I agree to a point as on my last unit a 2006 Scepter I had 8 solar panels. with 6 - 6v 400a batteries for the house. And 1 panel with 1 - 12v 225 a battery for the coach and we still ran the 8 kw gen. Why??? Convenience...the A/Cs. Yes solar is great but a lot less bother when you can run things on their own. And I know some people can get by using 4 panels and never use shore power. So just be sure you want to go that route.
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:01 PM   #11
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Residential is the only way to go. The two way is a joke because 1/2 the time it is not very cold in either compartment. You will be a lot happier with the RES.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:19 PM   #12
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Redwood has had it's share of troubles with the residential fridges by trying to reinvent the wheel rather than look a the industry, and I don't think they are all resolved yet - just beware:
  • Fridges not secured - would bounce out of hole and hit counters.
  • Doors not secured - would swing open and damage themselves on counters (I think that got fixed).
  • No actual shut off for the fridge or inverter - had to pull batt cables for storage.
  • No means to winterize or access to the back panel.
  • Design calls for inverter and two 31 series batteries, but they were delivered with one 24 series battery. (some early ones required 3 27 series batteries and the third located in the basement area).
We now have a residentlal fridge and it is nice, but I never had an issue with our 12cf Norcold. To be honest, we don't bring enough food on a vacation to keep things secure in a 20cf residential style fridge and when you open the door you end up wearing most of it.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:39 PM   #13
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Redwood has had it's share of troubles with the residential fridges by trying to reinvent the wheel rather than look a the industry, and I don't think they are all resolved yet - just beware:
  • Fridges not secured - would bounce out of hole and hit counters.
  • Doors not secured - would swing open and damage themselves on counters (I think that got fixed).
  • No actual shut off for the fridge or inverter - had to pull batt cables for storage.
  • No means to winterize or access to the back panel.
  • Design calls for inverter and two 31 series batteries, but they were delivered with one 24 series battery. (some early ones required 3 27 series batteries and the third located in the basement area).
We now have a residentlal fridge and it is nice, but I never had an issue with our 12cf Norcold. To be honest, we don't bring enough food on a vacation to keep things secure in a 20cf residential style fridge and when you open the door you end up wearing most of it.
RW give 2 of the group 31's with the residential upgrade...they still do not have a shut off ,but I think that is more of a whirlpool issue.. I just unplug.. The inverter has a shutoff in the closet near the control center.. still no access to the rear..as far as securement... I cant answer that , but till now , mine has not moved an inch.. crap , now I did it ! And I believe the door issue has also been corrected ..
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atom ant View Post
Redwood has had it's share of troubles with the residential fridges by trying to reinvent the wheel rather than look a the industry, and I don't think they are all resolved yet - just beware:
  • Fridges not secured - would bounce out of hole and hit counters.
  • Doors not secured - would swing open and damage themselves on counters (I think that got fixed).
  • No actual shut off for the fridge or inverter - had to pull batt cables for storage.
  • No means to winterize or access to the back panel.
  • Design calls for inverter and two 31 series batteries, but they were delivered with one 24 series battery. (some early ones required 3 27 series batteries and the third located in the basement area).
We now have a residentlal fridge and it is nice, but I never had an issue with our 12cf Norcold. To be honest, we don't bring enough food on a vacation to keep things secure in a 20cf residential style fridge and when you open the door you end up wearing most of it.
Brad, they make the little spring loaded curtain rods that help hold items in place which helps. It does take some practice and prayer to get things to stay where they belong in the larger refrigerators. We've even put towels rolled up and duct taped as pillows in the fridge
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:24 PM   #15
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We had a issue with our moving or tipping out while in transit I removed the trim around the Fridge and secured it with two 1" x 2" across the top and metal brackets on each side so it cannot fallout. Then replaced the trim. I also put 4 handles on the outside and with some nylon straps across the top doors and bottom door this keeps them secured in transit. Like any RV you have to make some changes once you get in them our RW is no different than others we have had.
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Old 06-14-2016, 01:59 AM   #16
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Brad, they make the little spring loaded curtain rods that help hold items in place which helps. It does take some practice and prayer to get things to stay where they belong in the larger refrigerators. We've even put towels rolled up and duct taped as pillows in the fridge
I was thinking about towels! Glad you said it first My little spring loaded things I had for the Norcold are too short for this one, so they are holding Jack in place in the cupboard.
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:46 PM   #17
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:33 PM   #18
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I was thinking about towels! Glad you said it first My little spring loaded things I had for the Norcold are too short for this one, so they are holding Jack in place in the cupboard.
We make sure all glass jars/large bottles are in the door shelves and use the 4 or 6-pack cartons for all bottles that will fit. Pack in enough water bottles to keep most things in place. Still need to be careful opening the doors.

Rick
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:49 PM   #19
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solar question

Well we have decided to go with the 36rl model ! Can't wait. Thanks for your help all. Question for"Ted 95" im a little confused about your setup. the 4 6volt bats are they a total of 400 amps or per pair and the house bank and coach bank? and what size (watt)are the solar panels? i am thinkin of running 4 trojan 6v at 420 amp hr a pair so would total 840 amp hrs so curious about size of panels i would need. Thanks again everyone
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:55 PM   #20
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Congratulations on your decision!
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