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Old 04-17-2017, 03:28 AM   #1201
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Wrestled some rather stiff wiring to install a hardwired Progressive EMS-HW50C in the utility space behind the basement walls, and vacuumed up a LOT of RW construction debris. Next job is to properly, i.e. actually, mount the Dirt Devil vacuum. It is basically just sitting behind the basement wall totally unsecured.
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Old 04-17-2017, 10:01 AM   #1202
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I got to rewire my just wired Progressive EMS-HW50C.....Oh Boy guess that 30 plus MPH wind while sitting in the front compartment was working on my brain the day I installed it. Couple of things about the Progressive 1. It will not work in reverse position. 2. 6 guage wire is still and always will be a royal PIA to work with. 3. The very first night of operation it kicked twice at the very full state park we were staying in saving us other aggravation.
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:10 PM   #1203
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Well, I opened up my Front Cap access today, what a mess, thanks Redwood!!!
No wonder my front living area gets hot in the summer time.
Now for the fix, not sure exactly how I am going to fix it so the insulation does not compress or fall down again !!!
Somebody here at the CG suggested putting block foam and securing it to the inside of the wall, if secured properly, it will not compress or fall down.

Front Cap Insulation.JPG

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Old 04-21-2017, 11:17 PM   #1204
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Wow, thanks for posting this. In the winter, we have water dripping out of our hitch AND from the LED light switches (which have had to be replaced because of corrosion). There is a TON of condensation on the nose cap, and I am assuming it's full of mold now. We are getting ready to do this job too.

What do you think about spraying the cap surface with insulating foam?? I think that's what we will do, before we put traditional insulation back in. That has been our biggest problem so far, I am afraid to see what it looks like in there.
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:24 PM   #1205
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Robert
Can you install some 2x4 blocks to hold it. Or as above maybe spray foam would work better. I know Steve just redid his and may have some tips as you have the same model. Maybe Bale can hid some bones in there to help hold it in place
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:25 PM   #1206
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Originally Posted by RomanyLife View Post
In the winter, we have water dripping out of our hitch AND from the LED light switches (which have had to be replaced because of corrosion). There is a TON of condensation on the nose cap, and I am assuming it's full of mold now.
I also got quite a bit of water / condensation dripping during the winter but to my relief I see no signs of mold at all.

That is why I was thinking of leaving bubble foil loose and hanging free, keeps the water / moisture between it and the cap fiberglass
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:29 PM   #1207
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Robert
Can you install some 2x4 blocks to hold it. Or as above maybe spray foam would work better. I know Steve just redid his and may have some tips as you have the same model. Maybe Bale can hid some bones in there to help hold it in place
Yep Shane, that is what I was thinking, putting some 2x4 runners in there to hold the Block Foam.

I have reached out to Steve also, he has sent me some good comments too, guess I am still not sure how to secure the fiberglass so it stays put and does not compress or fall down.

Yep, Bale is watching me and giving me that look, WHAT ARE YOU DOING TO OUR HOME !!!!
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:39 PM   #1208
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Rob,

I would use adhesive for the bubble wrap, and this is what I did :

I used spray adhesive on the bubble foil, and I got some good R insulation, and cut it into 10" long pieces.. Starting at the bottom of each section,I stacked the pieces on top of each other.. I could do that because with the RL, basically the entire middle of the cap was TIGHT and insulated as the shelves seamed to have held up the insulation and bubble foil.
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Old 04-22-2017, 12:27 AM   #1209
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I also got quite a bit of water / condensation dripping during the winter but to my relief I see no signs of mold at all.

That is why I was thinking of leaving bubble foil loose and hanging free, keeps the water / moisture between it and the cap fiberglass

Rob........... if you are putting anything in there to act as a vapor barrier, it needs to be installed towards the warm interior just as in regular house construction.
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Old 04-22-2017, 12:52 AM   #1210
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When I ripped into ours I completely filled the front with R-36 and stacked it along with some large wire ties to secure to studs. I made sure foil was against the front cap and no fiberglass insulation was touching the cap so any condensation would drain out the pin box hole. Probably an over kill but it's well insulated and shouldn't compress much. I wanted more R value then the foam board could give me.

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Old 04-22-2017, 05:06 AM   #1211
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Thanks for all the great comments and suggestions.
Off to the local home improvement stores in the morning and get this project done before the afternoon sun starts hitting my front cap.
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Old 04-22-2017, 04:31 PM   #1212
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Got the new R30 Insulation installed this morning and the wall buttoned back up.
Wound up adding some 1x4s to the side of the 2x2 runners behind the wall to create a better pocket for the insulation.
Then stapled some A/C Duct Hanger Woven Strap to the wood and used it to support and hold the insulation, also glued the insulation to the wall.
All seems pretty solid, hope it stays in place.

image1.JPG

image2.JPG
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Old 04-22-2017, 06:15 PM   #1213
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Something tells me access to this location in an FL model would be a challenge.
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Old 04-22-2017, 06:30 PM   #1214
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my 36re has the front closet in there and its like a oven also

tough to get access in there havnt looked that close but ridging foam or spray foom would be aelectricity saver in summer sun too

wonder if my insulation is laying in bottom of floor also?

karl b.
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Old 04-25-2017, 12:48 AM   #1215
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I had posted this on the other site and figured I better get it here also.

Finally just about finished with the coffee bar and center island project. Just a couple doors on the LR side to finish and stair runner. Took some time but came out better then we expected.
On to the next project!!!
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:58 AM   #1216
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I have to say Steve, you do exceptional work ! I just wish I had the tools and the talent to do stuff like that... great job !
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:07 PM   #1217
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Steve...red light in the coffee bar?! What exactly is going on up there?

Exceptional work, for sure.
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Old 04-26-2017, 12:53 AM   #1218
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Steve...red light in the coffee bar?! What exactly is going on up there?

Exceptional work, for sure.
That is a bit scary now that I look at it but it changes to all different colors and I just happen to have it on red. It actually is pretty neat at night.

Steve
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Old 04-26-2017, 11:55 PM   #1219
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Well.... once again I found that my battery was almost dead today. I posted with a question a month or so ago.
Tested many wires and found that converter was putting out 13 volts so that was not my problem. Followed to the cutoff switch that did not have any output in any position so thought it was a bad switch. Nope... I should have known this but overlooked it so thought I would post what I found since I'm sure there is someone else that might miss the same thing I did. Those little breakers behind the battery have a little reset button on top. I now know so no laughing!!!

While in there, since ours only came with 1 battery it was time for 2 and since I am a wood guy I built a better box that won't get broke if something lands on it. Used the original vent but went in the side to get it out of the way.

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Old 04-27-2017, 03:36 PM   #1220
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Steve,

That looks great! How do you think the wood will hold up to battery acid? I know the plastic is not effected by it.
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