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Old 05-25-2012, 06:18 AM   #41
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The converter is a WFCO and Model # is WF68100A.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:42 AM   #42
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Kwire... I may have an isolator on my truck. It's a 2012 so it probably does.
I just remember reading stories from other RVers where their batteries didn't have enough power to start their trucks after boondocking.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:55 AM   #43
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On theGMCyou have to have the #3pin on the 7-pin connector active to charge batteries while traveling. It's connected from the factory on the '12. On '11 and earlier, you have to connect the 12v wire to the fusebox to have this activated. Lots of info & pictures on the web.



Newer trucks shut off power to devices left on (like if you leave your dome light or other accessories on overnight) to prevent "rundown". I don't think that this extends to the 12v circuit I spoke of (above) but it's possible.Edited by: 5th_Time
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:00 AM   #44
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If I'm not mistaken, the center pin on the connector is the Back-Up Light/Aux ckt, the 12V Charge line is on pin 3Edited by: mhs4771
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:08 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5th_Time
The converter is a WFCO and Model # is WF68100A.


Thanks 5th -time. I went to there webb site. looks like a very good converter.



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Old 05-25-2012, 08:41 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhs4771


If I'm not mistaken, the center pin on the connector is the Back-Up Light/Aux ckt, the 12V Charge line is on pin 3
Your correct the center pin is the back up lights.
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:45 AM   #47
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Steve your 2012 Dodge does NOT isolate the charge wire when you turn off the engine. Ford always has had this feature and most earlier GM products did not have it either although if I'm not mistaken they do now, I think they made the change in early 2000.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:09 AM   #48
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Another word of caution:
If you have an inverter on board turn it off when towing. In most cases the inverter will draw more amps than the truck can provide, this causes the charge wire fuse to blow and then you are no longer charging the trailer batteries.

Another word of caution:
DO NOT RELACE THE THE CHARGE WIRE FUSE WITH A LARGER THAN RECOMMENDED AMP SIZE!
The reason for this is because the wire going back to the plug from the fuse box is not of a size to handle a larger amp draw. If you do replace the fuse with a larger amp size this can cause the wire to become very hot to the point of starting on fire.
We see this in my shop all to often and it can be very expensive to repair because when it happens it usually melts several wires together from the fuse box all the way back to the plug.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:49 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KR2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhs4771


If I'm not mistaken, the center pin on the connector is the Back-Up Light/Aux ckt, the 12V Charge line is on pin 3
Your correct the center pin is the back up lights.












Just checked the docs. You guys are correct. I'll change my post to avoid confusion.



Edited by: 5th_Time
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:03 PM   #50
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5th_time, thanks for posting the converter info...



Par, the WF-68100 converter is a true three stage converter, so that's a good thing. However it
looks like there is not any way to manually set the voltage for Bulk
Stage, and it is set to only 14.4V instead of 14.8V.



Now it can depend on the batteries you use but most of the reading I
have done say Bulk Charging should be done at 14.8V. Take a look at the
Trojan T-105 battery User Guide and it states Daily Charge (Bulk
Charge) should be at 7.4V and since they are 6Volt eh have 7.4X2 = 14.8V.



Most of the good MPPT controllers that you will be using for your Solar
should have a way to set the Voltage and sometimes Current, but you
should make sure before you buy one...



Here is another reference I have found useful on "The RV Battery Charging Puzzle".



HTH, Keith


Edited by: KWire
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