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Old 10-29-2015, 11:53 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by markw View Post
Is this what you found at Napa?

Mark
This is the type of automotive resetting fuse that my pump uses. I can't remember the amperage.

http://www.amazon.com/Wirthco-31181-...tomotive+fuses
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:12 AM   #22
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Here is a link to a supplier for auto resetting automotive fuses like in our Redwoods.

Auto Reset Automotive Circuit Breakers - Metal with Bracket

Many options. Metal or plastic. With or without bracket and different amp values.

Chris
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:34 AM   #23
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Had this problem with my last 5er. The 12v circuit breakers were near the hydraulic pump up front as someone else said. Easy to replace once you expose them.
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Old 10-31-2015, 04:33 AM   #24
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I will let everyone know next week hw this turns out.


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Old 11-03-2015, 06:15 PM   #25
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On our '12 they we on the back bulkhead of the Battery/Hydraulic Pump area. now on this '16 they're mounted on the rightside in the same compartment. If you follow the large guage Red wire from the Hydraulic Pump it should take you right to those breakers.
Michelle - I traced the 6AWG red cable from the pump directional control valve to the positive bus on the bulk head and then onto the battery. I flooded the battery compartment with light for inspecting all of the wiring. There does not seem to be a thermal device anywhere in that compartment. With the time out symptom I am getting when operating the slides or jacks there seems to be a thermal cutout somewhere and should be near the pump motor. Any suggestions are welcomed.
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Old 11-03-2015, 06:33 PM   #26
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Michelle - I traced the 6AWG red cable from the pump directional control valve to the positive bus on the bulk head and then onto the battery. I flooded the battery compartment with light for inspecting all of the wiring. There does not seem to be a thermal device anywhere in that compartment. With the time out symptom I am getting when operating the slides or jacks there seems to be a thermal cutout somewhere and should be near the pump motor. Any suggestions are welcomed.
They are there. On the back wall is like a buss bar. Wires to and from the top and bottom. The nuts holding the wires are on the breakers with the body of the breaker on the back side.
There is a screw on each end that holds the strip to the bulkhead. Once it's off the wall you see them on the back. I removed mine this morning. It is 50 amp. Napa will ave one in the morning for me.
After turning the power off and disconnecting the negative battery cable, I removed the strip from the wall. Then removed the breaker, taped the two wire ends, connected the ground and turned the power back on.

Mark
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:30 PM   #27
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They are there. On the back wall is like a buss bar. Wires to and from the top and bottom. The nuts holding the wires are on the breakers with the body of the breaker on the back side.
There is a screw on each end that holds the strip to the bulkhead. Once it's off the wall you see them on the back. I removed mine this morning. It is 50 amp. Napa will ave one in the morning for me.
After turning the power off and disconnecting the negative battery cable, I removed the strip from the wall. Then removed the breaker, taped the two wire ends, connected the ground and turned the power back on.

Mark
Thank you. They were there and sprayed with what to appear to be flat black paint.

Replacing the defective 50-amp hydraulic pump breaker did the trick. Thanks again for your assistance.
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Old 11-04-2015, 12:59 AM   #28
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Actually 50 amps is still on the lite side for that pump, as under a heavy load, like when it's cold and the fluid is thick, that pump can draw approx 80 amps. Montanas had that problem and the solution from Keystone and Lippert was to replace with an 80 amp breaker or using two 40 amp breakers in parallel. I'll have to look tomorrow as I think I have the original breakers from our RL and see what size they were.
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Old 11-04-2015, 04:24 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by r time soon View Post
Here is a link to a supplier for auto resetting automotive fuses like in our Redwoods.

Auto Reset Automotive Circuit Breakers - Metal with Bracket

Many options. Metal or plastic. With or without bracket and different amp values.

Chris
Thank you Chris. I lucked out at the local napa store and being the same size.
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Old 11-04-2015, 04:29 PM   #30
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Just changed the 50a. The slides worked both ways without stopping. The first time since we left home 2+ weeks ago.

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Old 11-04-2015, 05:33 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
Actually 50 amps is still on the lite side for that pump, as under a heavy load, like when it's cold and the fluid is thick, that pump can draw approx 80 amps. Montanas had that problem and the solution from Keystone and Lippert was to replace with an 80 amp breaker or using two 40 amp breakers in parallel. I'll have to look tomorrow as I think I have the original breakers from our RL and see what size they were.
From my EE days: there are great examples of fuses and breakers successfully being placed in parallel. Power companies will use parallel fuse solutions. There are some important caveats and too much to explain for this short note.

For our RW hydraulic pump protection, parallel breakers could work however as I know from almost too much research in this area I will stick with the RW supplied 50A breaker and given time I might research the breaker specifications for a breaker type that could be more suitable. There are amperage profiles or curves, motor spec's and ambient temperature spec's that impact breaker selection.

If one of our RW members has a clamp on ammeter perhaps they could collect cold verse warm amperage data and if possible capture the amperage/time profile. One of us then could research breaker design spec's with breaker OEM's to see if there is a better part number for the RW hydraulic pump protection.

As this is not that frequent for me I will just replace the breaker and hopefully only every four years.

Thanks to all for your valued help with locating that pump breaker. My really old eyes were having trouble spotting black painted components on the black back wall. The breaker failure also allowed me to spot half of the connections on the breaker assembly being loose, a loose battery cable and one battery parallel cable (negative cable) was not connected. Shame on for not checking this important area. That will not happen again.
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