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Old 08-16-2019, 03:36 PM   #1
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Electrical Help!!

I realize I may have posted this in the wrong section so I am copying it over here:


Electrical HELP!!!
Here is my issue. When I plug into shore power (most times), I get a "HIGH VAC IN" fault in the Magnum inverter, and all the 12V stuff is barely lit- most lights won't come on.

From basic troubleshooting I've found that I cannot have 2 breakers on at the same time, which are these:
1. Progressive Dynamics Conv
2. ODS
I don't even know what the ODS is connected to or where the converter is located. I can't have these two breakers on at the same time, and I have no interior lights that way!

I would sure appreciate any suggestions! I have already checked all the breaker connections for being tight as well as all the battery cables. I also checked the AC connections inside the inverter.

Thank You!
Mark
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Old 08-16-2019, 04:02 PM   #2
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So- Lights are OK if you turn the battery switch back on when troubleshooting..oops.

Problem is something on the "ODS" breaker circuit- anyone know what the heck that is??
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Old 08-16-2019, 05:06 PM   #3
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So I know that both the ODS and Prog Dyn breaker are making the outlet in the Microwave cabinet hot, one on each side. Wonder how this just 'started' happening after a few years????
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Old 08-16-2019, 05:51 PM   #4
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One thing that would help us is the year and model of your coach, and are you the original owner or subsequent owner?
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Old 08-16-2019, 08:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Mary View Post
One thing that would help us is the year and model of your coach, and are you the original owner or subsequent owner?
2015 38RL. I'm the second owner, but this problem just popped up. I've been on 3 trips before with no issue...
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Old 08-16-2019, 08:37 PM   #6
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I believe ODS means off door slide, which on your coach is the driver side kitchen slide. Please try and list all problems and symptoms. Some part of your symptoms may have been the battery switch was off. Do you have a surge and electrical protector? If not do you have a way to measure battery voltage. I think you can energize the hydraulic jacks to read the current battery voltage. These things will help you diagnose the problem.
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Old 08-16-2019, 10:27 PM   #7
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I ran thru all the breakers individually. The problems is I have a few neutral (white) wires that are getting hot, so there is something touching at some junction I suspect...

There are three breakers that make the inverter neutral in and the nuetrals on the fireplace and living room circuits at the connection underneath on the slide hot.
1. Ceiling Fan/Bed
2. Living Room
3. Progressive Dyn Conv

I can't find all the junctions underneath, but I assume one spot there is a black wire exposed to a neutral. I have the underside cover open a little and the basement wall out...

I know those goofy clear plugs at the rear slide have been an issue, but I am checking the feed side with those disconnect.

Any suggestions on junctions/locations to inspect?
Thanks
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Old 08-17-2019, 01:15 AM   #8
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sounds like your park power has a issue or possibly your automatic transfer switch . I think you have a open neutral on the incoming power. running anything for length of time with this condition will ruin electronics. Get a voltage meter and check your incoming service . Open white wire and a slightly unbalance load will show roughly 90 volts hot to white and 150 volt to white on the other leg. you should have less then 10 volts from white to ground.


my inverter on our RL is located on the driver side basement , check the voltage at the input side of the 120v. You could also try disconnecting the park 120/240 volt power and then disconnect the 12 volts DC from the batteries . I have had my Magnum give me a few codes the needed a cold restart to clear.
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Old 08-17-2019, 02:11 AM   #9
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With only the "ODS" breaker on, I get 120V at the black wire that is going to the inverter input, and nothing on the white.

When I connect the black supply wire to the input on the invert, both the black and the white output side of the inverter have 120V.

Something must be gone in the inverter...?
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Old 08-17-2019, 08:02 PM   #10
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No experience on inverters since our RW has a Norcold refrigerator. But ‘DS’ stands for ‘door side’ and ‘ODS’ stands for ‘off door side’. So the breaker labeled ods is for 110 volt wiring on the off door side of your coach. Hope that helps some.
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Old 08-17-2019, 10:26 PM   #11
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so having 120v at the inverter is normal , the white wire should not have voltage to ground. Is your alarm clear now that you turned of the inverter 120v and 12 volt? depening on how your inverter is programed it will charge the battery. I leave the progressive off and have the inverter programed to charge batterys. read up in the manual how to program it.
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Old 08-24-2019, 04:31 PM   #12
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Inverter

I'm assuming you are using a 50amp- 4wire to the pedestal not a 30amp reducer. If you have any king of power comeing out of the inverter showing g voltage on the white call an electrician or magnum to get info if the unit is faulty. Normally a live neutral means you dropped a phase on the hydro side. Check it at the pedestal.
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Old 08-24-2019, 04:34 PM   #13
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Might want to check your shore power cord. The wires in mine were not tightened from manufacturing and shorted out my whole system. Converter, microwave, washer, etc all fried. Wires were touching inside the plug.
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Old 09-02-2019, 03:20 PM   #14
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I ran a power cord to the Gen side of the ATS and I ran a new supply supply from the ATS to the panel in the coach. I've had no issues on a two week trip and just got home. I ordered a Fluke Megger and I will test all the runs, but this was a really weird problem...

I appreciate all the suggestions, and if/when I find a smoking gun I'll post for others as a reference...

Mark
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Old 09-08-2019, 03:28 PM   #15
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So it took me a while but I did find the problem. It was indeed the old ATS. I meggered all the supply runs and checked all connections, and then I meggered the old ATS, and wouldn't you know, black to white on the supply side failed!

I bought a used Fluke 1507 on ebay as I didn't want to pay $500 for a new one. What a handy tool! I had always wanted an insulation tester so I had a good reason to buy one.

FWIW, my Fluke true RMS multimeter DID NOT show the problem!

Thanks everyone who made suggestions.
Mark
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